ECM module compatibility?
#2
I don't think so. The early ECU tends to fail due to capacitor leaks, but they can be rebuilt. What codes do you have?
There are several repair services, one of which is ASI.
http://www.autoecu.com/
There are several repair services, one of which is ASI.
http://www.autoecu.com/
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ClickCO (05-03-2018)
#3
+1 on RJ237's advice. Have youra rebuilt. An AF suffix would be an older version and not a replacement for a suffix BB. Even if you can find one that matches it will still have to go to someone who has the software to program it to your cars network. They aren't plug and play they have to be programmed.
Rebuilding yours saves all of the reprogramming.
Rebuilding yours saves all of the reprogramming.
#4
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#5
Thank you for your quick response.
The LNC1410AF/001 is from the sticker in the boot area of my 98 XK8. it is a manufacturer label, so I would guess the JEPC database needs updated, (just a thought).
I did not have any codes prior. My 98 XK8 would just not start. I checked all the grounds, relays and fuses. Still no start. Starter has been off and tested as a good starter. I also replaced the the 12v battery with a new one, and replaced the battery in the key fob. After that, none of the electrical comes on, with the exception of a red light on the oil gauge, a red light on the amp gauge and a red light at the shift console. I was wondering if something in the ECM went out.
I am scratching my head on this. ?????
The LNC1410AF/001 is from the sticker in the boot area of my 98 XK8. it is a manufacturer label, so I would guess the JEPC database needs updated, (just a thought).
I did not have any codes prior. My 98 XK8 would just not start. I checked all the grounds, relays and fuses. Still no start. Starter has been off and tested as a good starter. I also replaced the the 12v battery with a new one, and replaced the battery in the key fob. After that, none of the electrical comes on, with the exception of a red light on the oil gauge, a red light on the amp gauge and a red light at the shift console. I was wondering if something in the ECM went out.
I am scratching my head on this. ?????
#6
The sticker in the boot is the VCATS. It lists the module numbers and versions that are compatible with your vehicle when looking for replacements. You state you have a not start condition.
Does that mean cranks over but won't start? Or turn the key and get nothing. The trouble shooting is different for each condition.
Let us know and maybe we can help you get it fired up. Any background info will help. Stored for awhile? Dead battery? Recent repair efforts? Recent symptoms?
Does that mean cranks over but won't start? Or turn the key and get nothing. The trouble shooting is different for each condition.
Let us know and maybe we can help you get it fired up. Any background info will help. Stored for awhile? Dead battery? Recent repair efforts? Recent symptoms?
#7
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#8
Here is the original post/threads about the no start/electrical issues. The car had not start issues when I purchased it from the previous owner. She did not know what was wrong, other than there was something loose in the boot.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...oblems-200608/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...oblems-200608/
#9
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There should always be +12V on the brown and black (good colour choice by Jaguar here) wires at the starter, and the White/Red should show +12V when the ignition key is in the 'crank' (iii) position.
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
We're not quite there yet as I suspect that one or more of the power bus lines isn't energising for some reason, but it's an invaluable guide to keep in your toolbox.
Does the radio work with the ignition at position i (aux on)?
Do you get the instrument panel lights self-test sequence when switching the ignition on (position ii)?
#10
#11
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OK,
Looks like you some power to some places some of the time. Possibly no codes as the data link connector might also be without.
I'm wondering what caused the 250A fuse to blow in the first place. It's a fairly serious short-circuit
Do check that the inertia switch hasn't tripped if you haven't already, although that wouldn't kill the radio etc.
Do the sidelights work?
Read through Gus' guide, and then arm yourself with a multimeter and check for 12V at all of the fuseboxes as Gus suggests. Flip the rubber cover off the stud connector in each box and confirm 12V between it and ground.
If they all check out then it's on to the relays and ignition switch circuits.
Looks like you some power to some places some of the time. Possibly no codes as the data link connector might also be without.
I'm wondering what caused the 250A fuse to blow in the first place. It's a fairly serious short-circuit
Do check that the inertia switch hasn't tripped if you haven't already, although that wouldn't kill the radio etc.
Do the sidelights work?
Read through Gus' guide, and then arm yourself with a multimeter and check for 12V at all of the fuseboxes as Gus suggests. Flip the rubber cover off the stud connector in each box and confirm 12V between it and ground.
If they all check out then it's on to the relays and ignition switch circuits.
Last edited by michaelh; 05-04-2018 at 04:03 PM.
#12
I don't know what cause the 250A to blow. It blew prior to my ownership. The previous owner did not know either. There was an after market DVD player installed. Perhaps that may be a part of the causation? I did check the inertia switch. In answer to your question, the sidelights don't work. I will read Gus' Guide. TY
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