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Pardon me if its a dumb question, but does anyone know if I can just swap the ECM out with the exact same ECM from another vehicle with the same programming that will be plug and play. I found a nice ECM on eBay and according to their Vcats its the same code LNG1410BD/103 and even the numbers on the ECM match being MB07900 - 8980.
I've done this with other modules in my car with no problem just matching v cats, but I'm asking if the ECM is the same logic without programming.
Pardon me if its a dumb question, but does anyone know if I can just swap the ECM out with the exact same ECM from another vehicle with the same programming that will be plug and play. I found a nice ECM on eBay and according to their Vcats its the same code LNG1410BD/103 and even the numbers on the ECM match being MB07900 - 8980.
I've done this with other modules in my car with no problem just matching v cats, but I'm asking if the ECM is the same logic without programming.
l think it depends, at least partly on the current programming. I have a spare ECM for my 2000 XKR and both modules are plug and play without issue. My build sheet indicates no immobiliser function on my car and l believe that is why a swap out works for me but not others.
l think it depends, at least partly on the current programming. I have a spare ECM for my 2000 XKR and both modules are plug and play without issue. My build sheet indicates no immobiliser function on my car and l believe that is why a swap out works for me but not others.
When you got your spare, did you have it programmed or it came from another vehicle without change? And it had all the came vcat codes?
When you got your spare, did you have it programmed or it came from another vehicle without change? And it had all the came vcat codes?
it came from another car, no programming. I took existing module out, plugged replacement in and started and drove car in that configuration for some weeks. Original was then swapped back in and spare went in cupboard.
Assuming Vcat code is 3 digit number on label, they DO NOT match. Spare ECM. My vin is some 1050 units older My VCATLabel
If you need ecu to be “refurbished “ I can walk you through it if you have some basic to ok soldering skills. If not, I could possibly do it for you, it’s not as bad as it seems as long as it’s just a basic (all) capacitors replacement. Where are you located?
it came from another car, no programming. I took existing module out, plugged replacement in and started and drove car in that configuration for some weeks. Original was then swapped back in and spare went in cupboard.
Assuming Vcat code is 3 digit number on label, they DO NOT match. Spare ECM. My vin is some 1050 units older My VCATLabel
Gotcha, I may try and see if this works if I go that route. I just don't want to have my car down for 2-5 days while I carefully repair the ECM. So getting a spare/another ECM is preferable for me. Especially considering it's only like 35-40$ for a good near me
If you need ecu to be “refurbished “ I can walk you through it if you have some basic to ok soldering skills. If not, I could possibly do it for you, it’s not as bad as it seems as long as it’s just a basic (all) capacitors replacement. Where are you located?
Hey, yeah I'm pretty okay with soldering, done quite a bit on the car, I was looking to swap so I didn't have to repair the ECM to find out it wasn't that that was the issue dispite all the symptoms pointing towards it. Once I take the module out I'll take a look and update if I find anything bloated
I had no visible signs of anything wrong with my ecu, but after extensive research here and jag repair. Com I went ahead and replaced the seven capacitors of four sizes in my ecu and plugged it back in, and 11 of my 13 codes disappeared and never came back. (Other two were abs) check out the sticky’s for an in depth step by step to do it. A word of advice, have plenty of good flux on hand, and desoldering wick for removal of components. I got a bunch on eBay for really cheap. And take lots of pics!!! Capacitors that are needed have a positive and negative side, I did one at a time. I got my replacements from digikey, and Amazon. DONT change the uf rating, but going up in voltage rating is ok, and get only 105degree Celsius heat rated ones. I spent like 35 bucks and bought double what I needed in case I screwed up. Take your time and clean everything before and after soldering, with acetone or isopropyl alcohol and q tips. Like I said reach out if you need help
From my reading, electrolytic failure in the ECM is almost entirely confined to the module that is unique to the 97MY XK8.
If there is an issue with your ECM, it's more likely to be along the lines that Chirpy noted in a parallel thread. By all means open it up and take a look - although any fault may not be visible.
Failing that, I'd be tempted to find a spare - they don't seem to be crazy expensive like the 97 ones (there's a crossover to the X308, hence more about).
You may be lucky as baxtor was, or it may need to be introduced to the car as per motorcarman's post. Useful to have a spare anyway as they ain't making any new ones...
I had no visible signs of anything wrong with my ecu, but after extensive research here and jag repair. Com I went ahead and replaced the seven capacitors of four sizes in my ecu and plugged it back in, and 11 of my 13 codes disappeared and never came back. (Other two were abs) check out the sticky’s for an in depth step by step to do it. A word of advice, have plenty of good flux on hand, and desoldering wick for removal of components. I got a bunch on eBay for really cheap. And take lots of pics!!! Capacitors that are needed have a positive and negative side, I did one at a time. I got my replacements from digikey, and Amazon. DONT change the uf rating, but going up in voltage rating is ok, and get only 105degree Celsius heat rated ones. I spent like 35 bucks and bought double what I needed in case I screwed up. Take your time and clean everything before and after soldering, with acetone or isopropyl alcohol and q tips. Like I said reach out if you need help
From my reading, electrolytic failure in the ECM is almost entirely confined to the module that is unique to the 97MY XK8.
If there is an issue with your ECM, it's more likely to be along the lines that Chirpy noted in a parallel thread. By all means open it up and take a look - although any fault may not be visible.
Failing that, I'd be tempted to find a spare - they don't seem to be crazy expensive like the 97 ones (there's a crossover to the X308, hence more about).
You may be lucky as baxtor was, or it may need to be introduced to the car as per motorcarman's post. Useful to have a spare anyway as they ain't making any new ones...
I agree, especially if something was to go wrong in during the repair which finger crossed, there's isn't. Current it's been raining and I have some errands to run. After Friday I'll start the process
I had no visible signs of anything wrong with my ecu, but after extensive research here and jag repair. Com I went ahead and replaced the seven capacitors of four sizes in my ecu and plugged it back in, and 11 of my 13 codes disappeared and never came back. (Other two were abs) check out the sticky’s for an in depth step by step to do it. A word of advice, have plenty of good flux on hand, and desoldering wick for removal of components. I got a bunch on eBay for really cheap. And take lots of pics!!! Capacitors that are needed have a positive and negative side, I did one at a time. I got my replacements from digikey, and Amazon. DONT change the uf rating, but going up in voltage rating is ok, and get only 105degree Celsius heat rated ones. I spent like 35 bucks and bought double what I needed in case I screwed up. Take your time and clean everything before and after soldering, with acetone or isopropyl alcohol and q tips. Like I said reach out if you need help
Hey, finally got the ECM out and took a look inside, looking at all 7 capacitors and only one stood out which was on the same side where the oxygen sensor data stream goes. The capacitor is leaning and the bottom seems to be bulging out a little more than the others. I guess it's safe to safe I may need to replace this one?
Wolfy, if you’re in there already, replace all seven. Like I said I spent 35 bucks and got enough to do it twice. Although they may not look bad, they might be. Not one of mine was bulging or bursted, but only true way to test them is to remove them from the circuit board, at that point, for the 85 cents to a dollar something apiece, just replace them. At least you’ll know they aren’t 27+ years old. Like I said I can walk you through it if you need help.
If you really aren’t comfortable repairing it yourself, I can do it for you. I did mine already and solved a ton of issues. I’m not really close to you but if you ship it to me, and pay for return shipping I would desolder all seven capacitors and replace them with new ones, no charge. I have the right tools for the job, a hot air soldering/desoldering iron and a nice digital temp setting soldering iron with multiple tips, plus plenty of desoldering wick and flux and electronic specific solder. I would take my time and not overheat the board, or cause any other damage. I’m not trying to brag but I’m pretty good with my soldering iron…. I also use it to wood burn lol. Check out this clock I made with it lol