BE PATIENT. I AM A NEWBIE TO THE XK8 SO PARDON MY IGNORANCE. I AM DOING ALL THE WORK MYSELF:
As stated in my previous post "New to me 2001 xk8: No crank, no start" The car runs and drives but I have a knocking sound in the engine coming from the driver(left) side (not the right side as posted previously). Since I am working alone, trying to isolate the noise is kind of difficult. I removed the left hand side valve cover and re-installed the coil packs, made up an Oil shield and started the engine but my shield did not work out as expected as I dumped about a quart of oil on my driveway. Spent the rest of the day cleaning up the oil spill.
Here is what I have so far.
When I start the car and put it in gear the knock is still there but turns into a screech (no it's not the belt).
The left side motor mount is shot. The engine lurches upward (left side) when I accelerate the engine, brake 'on' and in gear. Could that cause the knocking? I doubt but you never know. It's a Jag. I used a stethescope on the top of the cam bearings and I hear the knock very loud at the 2 rear intake cam bearings and the 2 rear exhaust cam bearings. Checking, the knock is not heard at the intake and exhaust cam bearings towards the front of the engine. I am wondering whether it could be a dropped valve seat but then the engine runs smoothly and there is no engine misfire. Noise resonance could be transferred from anywhere on the engine.
The PO knew that the engine had a knock so he purchased another engine from a car that was destroyed in the rear and he was willing sell me the engine for $800. So I bought it.
The engine on my car has over 160,000 miles on it. The engine I got has less than half that mileage. The plan is to swap the engine out but before I do I want to do some preventative maintenance on the engine I bought before installation.
Here is my thought process:
1. Replace the lower (primary) chain tensioner/s and guides. My inspection says that the primary chain is in good condition with normal play. Should I do new chains also? I have to look for the tools to do this job. I have the Camshaft locking tool. Is there a gasket for the timing cover>
2. Update the secondary chains and tensioners if they are the plastic type.
3. Inspect and replace water pump if it has the plastic impellers
4. Replace the plastic thermostat housing for the metal one. Where do I get this item?
5. Drop the oil pan (sump) clean up and replace gasket. Is this overkill?
6. Replace the belt tensioner now while the engine is out.
7. Valve cover gaskets.
8. Swap out flex plate. I see a small crack at one of the points where the torque converter bolts go.
Is this too much or are there additional thing I should do to this engine before I install it in the car.

crack on flexplate

Plastic tensioner

front of engine

looks pretty clean here

 

Perhaps make an audio recording of the motor running and post here. It may be possible to identify, or, at least, provide some clues.


My on your list:

1. Replace the lower (primary) chain tensioner/s and guides. My inspection says that the primary chain is in good condition with normal play. Should I do new chains also?
Definitely do tensioners & guides:- make sure you get the correct guides if the engine # is prior to 0108130000.
I'd be wary of replacement chains unless I could be sure that they were OEM quality.
Timing cover gaskets:

NCA2126AC now superseded by AJ83699. Some advise on here to use OEM to avoid leaks

3. Inspect and replace water pump if it has the plastic impellers
AFAIK only the very early pumps had a plastic impeller. Later changed to a more durable material - Nylon?

4. Replace the plastic thermostat housing for the metal one. Where do I get this item?
Available on the bay, but forum sponsor SNG Barratt has them:
https://www.sngbarratt.com/English(U...20SYSTEM(12442)

5. Drop the oil pan (sump) clean up and replace gasket. Is this overkill?
No. There may well be bits of primary chain slipper guide in there, or clogging up the oil pump strainer...

6. Replace the belt tensioner now while the engine is out.
The tensioner itself may well be OK, but consider changing its pulley (and the idler pulley) while access is good.

 

@ Michaelh and others:
I have spent the last 3-4 hours contacting vendors regarding the parts they sell. My inquiry regarding whether their kits include the upgraded metal tensioners was met with "we do not know" or some response similar to that.
I don't want to spend a ton of money only a decent amount to acquire the needed parts. Prices range from a couple hundred dollars to above 1000 dollars for a timing chain kit with all the required parts to do the job. I am a bit wary because I have read some posts on the forum that some of the guides were incorrect and that the poster had to turn one of the guides upside down to make it work. I want the correct parts so that that does not become an issue.
I will go to SNG Barratt for the upgraded thermostat housing and water pump if they have it.
I am going to talk to Moss Motors and soe of the other known Jaguar parts vendors to see what they have available.
One more problem: With the engine mounted on an Engine stand, I don't see how I can lock the crankshaft to remove the bolt without having the engine stand wanting to topple over.
How can that be addressed?.
Just going to repeat the parts that I need.
1. Timing Chain kit with upgraded tensioners
2. Water Pump.
3 Upgraded Termostat housing and new thermostal
4. Belt tensioner/ pulleys
5. valve cover gasket.
6. Timing chain Cover gasket
7. Oil pan gasket.
8. 2 Engine mounts
9. Transmission mount
If I am missing any item, please feel free to add to list

 

From the pix you most definitely have the plastic secondary tensioners. Clear as day. Change them. Now.

The plastic thermostat housing is fine, IF you maintain the car regularly. The aluminum ones are definitely better, but if not available for some reason, a new plastic one is OK. You just don't install it and ignore it for 20 years and expect it to hold up.

You may as well replace the oil temp and pressure sensors.

Don't forget fresh plugs.

Oh, and immediately replace that washer above the rear main seal. You can thank me later. BTW, I could only find them at a Jag dealer. Unlike the rest of the world, pipe plugs weren't good enough for Jag, who proceeded to use a washer with a "rubber" insert. Said insert gets hard and fails over time and you get a nice leak out of the rear which requires pulling the trans and flex plate to fix.

 

Where do I find the engine number or will the VIN suffice when purchasing parts.

 

Good catch re that &*^% seal, Y2KJag

I'd stick with engine # for timing parts. Here are the locations:



Here are the guide part numbers:
Chain tensioner blade
(to engine 0108122359) NCA2025AB
(from engine 0108130000) C2A1497
and
Chain guide
(to engine 0108122359) NCA1998AB
(from engine 0108130000) C2A1456
Easiest way to check which you need is to compare the primary and secondary chains. If they're the same construction, it's the earlier parts. If not, you need the later guides.

 

The engine number (DATE CODE) on the later engines is on the left side of the cylinder block behind the motor mount.

 

Getting ready to remove engine. I do not have access to a lift so the job has to be done pulling the engine from the top. I plan on pulling the engine alone leaving the tranny in place. If that is not feasible I will pull the engine with the tranny.. In the past I have successfully pulled the V12 engine alone from the Jaguar XJS by myself. Fortunately this time on the XK8 I will have some help. I would prefer not to remove the tranny. Here is my plan.
UNDER THE CAR. Pressure wash underside
1. Remove the Torque Converter bolts
2. Disconnect the Cats and exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
3. Remove starter
4 Disconnect wiring from alternator
5. Unbolt Motor Mounts
6.Discharge/Recover R134a- Disconnect AC pipes/hoses as needed
7. Disconnect PS pump hoses/or remove PS pump
8. Drain engine oil
9. Unbolt engine from transmission. If bolts are not accessible the tranny will have to come out with the engine
10. Disconnect any assorted wiring I can access under the car
Did I miss anything?
ON THE TOP
1. Remove Throttle body
2.Access and disconnect any electrical connectors that need to be disconnected at the rear of engine.
3. Remove Bonnet
4. Remove fans
5.Drain Coolant/ Disconnect the necessary coolant hoses/reservoir
6. Anything that needs to be removed to lift engine out.
7. Fuel lines
?????????????

The replacement engine is on an engine stand. Engine #010208-1832
Given that, how do I remove the crankshaft bolt?
I am replacing all of the engine gaskets, primary chain guides and tensioners (so I have to remove the crankshaft pulley),secondary chain tensioners, serpentine belt pulleys, water pump, thermostat and housing.
Anything I need to know?

 

Your engine is an early version with plastic tensioners unless someone installed updated parts.
Engine # 0108130000 onward is the later timing components from the factory.

 

@ motorcarman: Thanks. Ordered the upgraded metal tensioners

 

Hello all.
I am in the process of removing the bad engine from the XK8. I am waiting for my ordered parts to come in to regasket and replace chain tensioners, water pump, thermostat and housing and all hoses..
I tagged and disconnected the engine electrical harness, fuel injector lines and rails and was doing pretty good until...........
The Octopus hose (original it seems) is very very soft and the PO jury rigged the NORMA connections which were broken and he or his mechanic used an epoxy (JB WELD)? to put them back together. How long ago is a different story but it held together since it was done. I spent most of the day today trying to dismantle the 'epoxied' connectors from the firewall, taking care not to break the heater core connections. I ordered a EuroSpare brand Octopus hose and if the connections are iffy I will have no choice but to cut off the NORMA connectors on the new hose and use some additional hose, connectors and Jubilee clips to put it all back together.
Instead of disconnecting the large electrical connector, I removed the 10mm bolt holding it to the transmission. There was only one bolt. (Somebody was there before) I just moved the connector to one sdie to access the Octopus hose.
From the top, I can access most of the bolts holding the engine and transmission together so it is not as difficult as I thought. When I go under the car to unbolt the catalytic converters I will disconnect /remove the starter and undo the torque converter bolts and motor mount.
I do have one question though. Can the AC lines be disconnected at the compressor and left in the engine bay? I guess I will have to lift the engine some, remove the driver side motor mount to disconnect the lines at the compressor. Is there another way? Please inform me.
I am waiting for some help to remove the bonnet from the car after which I will remove the electrical fans to gain some forward movement. ADVICE IS WELCOME. Never worked on a XK8 before.
All the needed parts will be here sometime next week. I was surprised how costly parts are for this car but I am already into it.
The other thing is that the engine I am going to use is on an engine stand because even though there are no visible leaks on the engine, I am going to replace all of the engine gaskets. I am going to try an Air Gun to remove the Crankshaft bolt since I will have no way to lock the crankshaft without the whole thing toppling over. I am taking off the timing cover to do the guides and tensioners on the primary chain.I will leave the Original chain on the engine since there is no slack and I believe the the aftermarket chains are "CRAP" even though they come in the kit. HELP< HELP.

 

Quite a few of us have solved the lousy Norma connector issues by cutting them out of the system and replacing them with brass hose barbs. Works for me.....

 

I will follow your efforts and applauding your ability to jump right in there.
Really wish I was there to help and learn.

 

Everybody hates the NORMA connectors, and perhaps with reason. But these octopus hoses have lasted for over 20 years! I think that's an amazing thing. ZF's policy of claiming their transmissions had a "lifetime" fill is disputed by everyone who has turned a wrench, including me. But, I have a 5HP19 that went for almost 200K miles before failing, and it had never been opened. We're all getting in on the tail end of these products' lifespan.

If your car has the later 2-piece suction hose then you can disconnect the two halves. The connector is on the left side of the engine, sort of below the expansion tank. If you have the earlier 1-piece hose you might be happier if you disconnect it from the firewall. Unbolting the hose from the compressor with the engine in the car is a PITA.

 

Not sure if it's been mentioned in an earlier post, but make sure you use the correct tools to set the camshaft timing. The correct camshaft timing is 45 degrees ATDC, not TDC as some people have done.

Here is a link to the Engine Course with all the relevant information:

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/nfvwk...=nk8bvd1k&dl=0

Refer to page 74 of the PDF (page 26 of the course) for the correct cam timing procedure.

 

@NBCat : I am using the tool to set the crankshaft @ TDC and the camshaft hold-down tools to lock the camshafts the flats being parallel to the edges of the cylinder heads.
Reading tells me that when setting up the timing chains the VVT has to be in the full retard position. The spring mechanism within the VVT valve will cause the timing to advance as the engine rotates. Is this all incorrect?.
Either way I have to redo the timing chains and tensioners because I did the primary chain first, but all of the reading and videos I did and looked at says I should do the secondary first and use the tensioning tool to set it up before tightening the allen bolts after which I can do the primary chain, guides and tensioners.
Which is the proper sequence Top first then bottom or does it really matter which one is done first.
I am doing this job without a workshop manual. Just using my mechanical knowledge and advice from members of the forum

 

Getting there. I installed all 4 tensioners, guides, water pump and thermostat housing/thermostat. I also replaced the 2 hoses that run under the intake manifold and re-installed the intake with new gaskets. I am still awaiting some more parts to proceed. I had the tool set to lock the cams and crank and do the tensioning of the chain before torquing down the sprocket allen bolts.
More to come. Waiting on gaskets for the sump, oil pan, valve cover and Octopus/spider hose.

tensioner and guides installed

 

I copied my paper 3 ring binder from the Jaguar training ENGINE COURSE 168 to .pdf about a decade ago so it would be available to anyone that needed it!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jaguar only ever issued the course student guide in paper format when I was at the dealer.
NBCat linked my student guide and it is all over the internet.
I still have the paper guide as well as the ENGINE COURSE 180 but the 180 only has the AJV8. (no V6 info so I never had it converted to .pdf)

I see you also used the wrong guides for the roller chains but that is what comes with all the Jaguar/Ford timing kits.
The proper guides/blades are wider and I never tried to use the narrow 'silent-running-Morse-style' primary guides/blades on the roller chains but I see people do use them.

Someone that has substituted the narrow guides/blades might want to 'chime-in' and tell us if it works without issue?

 

The picture is not showing the width of the chain guides. The new ones are the exact width as the OEM ones that were removed from the car. As far as I can tell, the timing cover and gasket is as it left the factory. They were never removed as per the PO who bought the car the engine came from the dealer in 2001. The reason I got the engine was that the car was rear ended and was beyond repair so he bought it back from the Insurance company. I will take a side view picture tomorrow when I get back in my garage.

 

Use the link in post 15 above to download the PDF of the engine course. @motorcarman made that course available to assist anyone attempting to replace the timing chains and tensioners.

If the valves are timed to TDC, the engine will not run properly and display several DTCs.