This post of BobRoy's shows the difference between the old & new guides:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3/#post1513677

 

Engine guides/rails to engine 0108122359

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/B0-NCA1998AB

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/NCA2025AB

Engines from 0108130000 use the longer aluminum guides/rails that all the kits come with lately using Morse 'silent-running' primary chains.

 

Couple of questions.
1. Should I redo the guides/rails with these? I haven't buttoned up the engine as yet

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/B0-NCA1998AB

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/NCA2025AB

2. If I used tool JD216 in the special hole (kind of oval) wouldn't that set the piston where it is supposed to be?
I used the locking bars to lock the camshafts, flats facing up parallel to the face of the cylinder head.
I loosened the Allen bolts holding the intake and exhaust sprockets. I had to remove the exhaust sprocket completely to install the tensioner. I fitted the exhaust sprocket and left both of them loose and used JD217 counter clockwise which took the slack of the bottom of the chain then tightened both Allen bolts. Did the same on the other head.
When I read the info in Course 168, that is exactly what it says to do. Doing it this way, wouldn't that set the valve timing where it is supposed to be?

 

If the crankshaft lock tool fits the drive plate, you are 45 ATDC and the cams need to be 'locked' with the flats under the tool.

It seems many people use the later guides/blades with no ill effects so I cannot say if you should tear it all apart and use the old style guides/blades.(your decision)
Never heard horror stories about engine failure using the later parts on roller chain earlier engines as of yet.

I do use the old style correct parts but that is my preference.(been doing that since at the dealer and Jaguar had trouble with plastic parts and warranty work)

 

Sanchez, good job man you’re doing great. I did this to my 97 xk8 in my garage by myself and thought I bought everything I needed before hand, and ended up ordering tons more stuff. It was a while ago but from memory a few things I overlooked were vvt o rings(again mines a 97), crankshaft pulley bolt, dipstick tube o ring, valve cover to air intake tube(I forgot the official name), among a few other things.
first off, remove hood with help, and cooling fans, then put cardboard against radiator to prevent damage. I changed my tensioner and idler pulleys while they were off, and belt. I did metal impeller water pump, new metal coolant outlet and new thermostat. BE AWARE; water outlet has four bolts, two of which are very hard to access if intake plenum is not removed, which would require more gaskets. Luckily for me, someone had already cut down the two rear bolts but they were still a pain to get in and out, I cut and grinded a brand new ratcheting wrench to fit.

for a separate side note, once everything is removed, do yourself a favor and replace your front sway bar bushings, it took me ten minutes with all that removed.

side side note, for removing the crank pulley bolt on the engine on the stand, impact is best bet but may not work. It’s on there with thread lock and like 200 something ft/lbs of torque. Here’s an old school trick I learned from an old timer when replacing a broken valve spring(to keep valve from dropping into engine) but still applies here… remove a spark plug from any cylinder that’s at bottom dead center (or close to it) , then feed a long length of rope into cylinder through spark plug hole until you can’t fit any more. Then turn crank over until engine won’t go over any more, and then crack that crank bolt off with a breaker bar and a big *** pipe for leverage. Remove rope and reinstall spark plug. Good luck!

 

To set my mind at ease I am going to purchase:
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/B0-NCA1998AB
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/NCA2025AB

Since the guides/rails I purchased are for engines 0108122359 and later, I do not think they would function as intended, even though others have used them with no problems
My engine is #0102081838 so I need the earlier style (shorter) guides/rails.
Also I have to check the VVT system to make sure they are in the fully retarded position. I still have to read up on how to do this. If anyone knows how to set up the VVT properly, please post your procedure so I can proceed. Maybe I did it correctly or maybe I didn't.

 

Hello all.
Guides/Rails NCA1998AB and NCA2025AB arrived this morning and for sure they are shorter and fit the correct way ( elongated hole at the top).
I mentioned in my last post that I was not sure if I had set up the VVT units correctly. From what I read, the later model VVT units works differently to the earlier models.
With the earlier models the actual sprockets will spring back to full retard when you turn the sprocket clockwise and let it go.
With the later model the internal spring holds the internal gears in the fully retarded position. When the engine is running, Oil pressure overcomes the spring pressure pushing the internal gear forward to advance the valve timing OR VICEVERSA.
So after fitting the primary and secondary chains all you have to do is use the tool to take up the slack on the secondary chain, tighten the Allen bolts to specs, release the tensioners and you are done. Do I need to install the metal backing plates that were with the plastic tensioners. The 4 tensioners I am using are the upgraded metal ones Do they also need the backing plates?
AM I correct or AM I DUMB?

 

Does anybody have a copy of JTIS 5? According to what I read>
EXERPT for later model VVT Units
"To move back to a retard position, oil pressure is switched to the retard chamber and the piston and rotational movements are reversed. The use of oil pressure to move the piston in both directions eliminates the need for a return spring for VVT operation (as in the two position system). However, a lighter pressure spring is fitted in the retard chamber to assist the piston assembly to revert to the fully retarded position with the engine stopped. Note that rotating the engine backwards from the stopped position will cause the VVT unit body to move relative to the camshaft, advancing the timing. To avoid the possibility of incorrect timing being set after any associated service work, reference must be made to JTIS 5 for the correct procedures.
Appreciate it.

 

GREAT NEWS:
IT'S ALIVE.
As posted above, the replacement engine was installed in the car, and it is now running, but I have a few issues.
On initial startup, there was a misfire.
I pulled the codes and had the following:
PO307 - Misfire on CYL # 7
PO332 - Knock Sensor Bank 2
PO010 - CPS open Circuit Bank 1
I had started the car with the old spark plugs and figured that it may be the spark plug or the coil pac. I decided to go ahead and replace all the spark plugs and purchased the only available compatible spark plug in my neighbood 'Bosch Iridium'. Set of 8 for $102 (very costly). What a waste of $$. The car misfired worst than it was before. Based on MotorcarMan recommendation on one of his posts, I ordered the NGK spark plugs.
The issue for P0307 was the coil pac.
After installing the new Bosh spark plugs, the following trouble codes showed up.
P0300- Random Multiple CYL misfire
P0357- Ign coil to # 6 cyl
P0010- CPS Open Circuit Bank #1
I will address these issues in a couple of days when the new spark plugs get here. I also hae a complete set of new coils. I am concerned that the issue could be the brittle wiring to the coils since I havd moved them around quite a bit while removing the engine, while cleaning the engine bay, while installing the replacement engine etc.
The car was parked in my driveway and we had a lot of rain even though I had the electrical harnesses covered up with plastic there was some moisture so I used compressed air to dry it out as much as I could.
I decided that with the weather being unpredictable to clear up the garage and move the car in and another problem cropped up.
Prior to removing the ABS system was working properly. but when moving the car into the garage the pedal was as hard as a rock.
I did not touch anything pertaining to the braking system so I can only surmise that the electrical connector at the ABS unit got wet because I did not cover it during the rain storms
Will continue working on the car to resolve the misfire issues.

 

 

Be proud!
wj

 

I mentioned in Post #29 about some issues after initial startup and the DTCs that were cropping up.
Today, I saw that the Brake booster hose was at fault. The hose is not broken, but the hose connector to the TB elbow was missing and the hose fitting itself would pull out about 3/4 inch and very loose. I would assume if it is loose fitting, the O-ring on the brass portion is no longer there. (So massive vacuum leak)The problem is that even though it moved 3/4 inch outward, I cannot get it out of the TB elbow no matter how hard I try. I would have liked to get it out to see if I have an Oring that would fit. I do not want to break the hose. What alternatives do I have to stop the vacuum leak. Can I seal it with JB weld as a last resort? Maybe this was the cause of P0300, Random misfire on multiple cylinders.
Regarding P0010- CPS Open Circuit Bank #1, I will address that whe the correct spark plugs get here from RockAuto. Bank 1 being on the passenger side, I have access to the screw that holds the CPS to the head. If the electrical circuit is good, I have 2 good cam sensors that I can replace.
I will methodically address the DTCs one by one.
Wish me luck!!!!

 

This thread from TropicCat might help:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...1/#post2389085

 

Update:
On initial startup, I pulled the codes and had the following:
PO307 - Misfire on CYL # 7
PO332 - Knock Sensor Bank 2
PO010 - CPS open Circuit Bank 1
Put a set of new Bosch Spark Plugs and replaced the coil on Cyl 7 to solve the misfire issue
Upon second start up I had the following:
P0300- Random Multiple CYL misfire
P0357- Ign coil to # 6 cyl
P0010- CPS Open Circuit Bank #1 Resolved: Connector was not seated properly.

Thinking that the Bosch Spark Plugs was causing the Random Misfire P0300, I ordered the recommended Spark Plug NGK5464.
A friend of mine had 8 new coils sitting in his garage for God knows how long but I decided since they were new, WHY NOT?
I started up the car today with the new components and now I have>
P0351 - PRIMARY/SECONDARY CIRCUIT ---COIL A
P0354 - PRIMARY/SECONDARY CIRCUIT ---COIL D-
P0356 - PRIMARY/SECONDARY CIRCUIT ---COIL F
P0357 - PRIMARY/SECONDARY CIRCUIT ---COIL G
Looking at the engine sitting in the car, BANK A is on the right side and BANK B is on the left side.
How do you letter the coils A thru H?
Can anyone clear this up for me?
I am thinking Coils A , B, C , D would be Bank A (1)and Coils E, F, G, H would be Bank B(2) Is this correct?
SORRY, I STILL DON'T HAVE THE WORKSHOP MANUAL
Thanks

 

The ignition system is split into two cylinder groups- each consists of the outer pair of one bank combined with the inner pair of the other, i.e. (A1,B2,B3,A4) and (B1,A2,A3,B4). I imagine this is done so the motor will run more smoothly if one group fails.

The P035x codes you see belong to one cylinder group. It is possible for one failing coil pack to take down the whole group



You may have a problem with one or more of the coils you've fitted, but I'd check the engine wiring loom first before swopping coils out & about. The wiring is pretty well baked by now.

See this post of DonB's for cylinder numbering
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post1368689

 

So far,so good. I worked on the car this morning and found that Coil G was shorted out causing the multiple codes I was seeing on my scan tool. Replaced the shorted coil and all is well. The car now runs smoothly and not generating any DTCs. (FOR HOW LONG, WHO KNOWS) THANK YOU to all the forum members for leading me in the right direction.
I worked on this car knowing absolutely nothing about the workings of the XK8 just using my basic mechanical skills, common sense and your collective knowledge to help me through this.
What a great forum! I learnt so much in the last 3 weeks from you all. On to the next project on this car. What?
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU.

 

Great job and we all appreciate you taking us on your journey.

 

UPDATE:
I have finally finished everything in the engine bay and the engine runs sweet. After my first startup, I kept getting trouble codes and went after each one with total dedication. In some cases they were just loose connections, in others they cost $$. I replaced all 8 ign coils and I kept having "Restricted Performance". but no codes. Well, so I thought until I I decided to lay off the Jag for a while and do so work on my Mini Cooper S. I had the CEL on in the Mini and connected my scan tool but I was getting no codes. I removed the scan tool and I inadvertently stepped on it crushing the screen. GODSENT> I purchased a new scantool and lo and behold I was pulling up all different codes on the Mini and the Jag.
Back to the Jag, with the new scantool I was getting some new codes which I never had before. Knock sensor code for Bank 2 PO332. I decided to just replace both knock sensors and now everything is peachy. After I cleared all the codes I ran the car for about 20 minutes until the cooling fans turned on. I accelerated the engine past 4000 RPM in short bursts and no CEL so
that was good news. I am waiting for my appt to register the car so I can finally take it on the road.
A couple of issues I still have to deal with is the left front wheel ABS sensor/circuit and the alternator issue which I beleive I mentioned in another post
With the engine running I get 14.47 volts at the battery. Engine off I have 12.24 volts at the battery. but the system still says "BATTERY NOT CHARGING".
Also on the dash I have the red and orange light at the speedometer ON all the time. I have to do some research on those 2 items.
For now I can close the bonnet and focus on the interior of the car. I have the seats and cubby cover for the center console and the steering wheel at the upholster. Will be picking them up tomorrow.
A WORD OF CAUTION TO ALL:
Lseat advertizes "Leather seat covers" but that is a total lie. My upholsterer told my what they sold me was Vinyl seat covers. He showed me what leather seat material looks like and he cut a small piece out from the bottom of the seat and put a lighter to it and it just turned into a ball of fire. Not leather for sure. Hmmmmm.
Will contact Lseat to get my $$ back.

 

You are dedicated! Good job.
As to the LSeats, I recall reading in their information that the seating area is leather and unless you specify all leather (more $$$) you get only a leather front seating area. I have their covers for an X150, having vinyl on the sides and back didn't bother me since that was what I expected. My separate headrest covers were made of leather. Full leather from Richmond Auto Seats is $1500.00.
wj

edit...I just went to their website, the information I read some time back is no longer there. So based on what one would see today, that 'Leather' is misleading.
Sorry you are disappointed, maybe they sent you the faux leather by mistake.

 

Not at all. It is pure vinyl throughout. My upholsterer slit the backing and there are no leather inserts. All vinyl. Well, that's what you get for going cheap. At least it will look 100% better than the tattered seats I had. The upholsterer is also making a new bun for the driver seat. My steering wheel is done so I am happy about that. Tomorrow I get my seats back but will not be installing them is the quite yet. I have to drop the steering column to repair the telescoping function. I am waiting on the new reach cable.
The upholstery shop told me that the passenger side seat belt buckle ( attached to the seat) disintegrated so I am looking for another one. Does anyone know which year buckles are compatible with my 2001 XK8?