So the XK8 looks pretty in the driveway but it's time to get it back on the road so I have a new engine on the way.

I've looked through the threads but I haven't seen anything really giving much info. JTIS seems to have a pretty good description but what I'm really after knowing is what parts I need to order that I'll be replacing. I'm thinking in terms of gaskets and suchlike. I'm sure I'll be replacing the spark plugs. AC I'll leave to a professional. I'm assuming probably exhaust manifold gaskets, inlet (?) and possibly throttle. Stretch bolts?

Also, I'm wondering if it's possible or advisable to lift the engine without having to buy those $200 engine lift plates. Especially since I'd probably have to order them. Anyone know?

If these questions are answered in another thread, I'd be glad of a pointer but I haven't found one.

Thanks

Oh, it would probably help to mention that this is a used engine so probably (maybe) not quite as stripped down as a full refurb?

 

If you're feeling your Wheaties you might consider dropping it out the bottom and lifting the car over it...

 

For gaskets FelPro makes various sets for the '00 - '02 Lincoln LS 3.9L that fits the Jaguar AJ27 which you have. Mostly same engine. Depending on what you need you might chase the Ford parts rather than Jaguar for substantial savings. I believe that FelPro even has the stretch bolts.

Make sure that your 'new' engine has the metal cam chain tensioners before anything else.

Water pump, thermostat, etc. generally available at your local auto parts store. Thermo tower should be replaced with the metal aftermarket versions. Installing a shiny aluminum tower on the top center of an otherwise black engine looks strange. Paint it first.

Anything that you find that will transfer from Ford to Jaguar please let us know.

There has been posts on replacing the engine from above and below. Somehow I feel better about using an engine crane on the engine rather than the car. Anyone need an engine crane? I think I am out of the engine swap business.

 

Read some of my swap posts... Here are some MUST DO's:
1. Replace the octopus hose.
2. Replace the hoses under the intake manifold.
3. Check and replace tensioners if needed (since the car is out SERIOUSLY consider the lowers and rails.)
4. Replace engine mounts if iffy.
5. do not attempt to start the car until you have connected all of the coolant and trans cooler hoses. (ask me how I know that)
6. You only need stretch bolts if you are R&Ring the heads- are you?
7. Make sure to put a teaspoon of oil in the cylinders before putting the plugs in to make sure you get good compression for the firrst start in case the engine has been sitting for awhile.
8 last but not least, make sure you are replacing an AJ26 or AJ27 with the same engine model- if not it can be done, but with a little finesse.

 

I already have the crane so the engine will be coming out the top. In my readings on the matter, it seemed that that was the way to go.

I already have the hoses and tower. I was getting ready to replace them on the old engine as it had one or two overheat problems (which may have been related to what caused the problem with the engine. Not sure).

The reason I was asking about the stretch bolts is because my VW uses them on the engine mounts and in a couple of other places. If it's not relevant on the Jag engine, so much the better.

It should have the metal cam chain tensioners from what I can tell from the engine numbers. I may not worry about it if not at this stage as I am keen just to get the car moving again. It has been sitting for way too long.

 

15 minutes of your time to check the tensioners= many happy miles.

Avoid checking them at your own peril.

 

OK. So I have a nice 4L V8 sitting in my driveway. I guess a couple of questions before I get stuck in.

Do I need the engine lift plates? Somewhere I saw suggested just sticking some bolts through the chain links. I'd be happy to do that if no one will tell me it would be a disaster.

Also, the hose on the left that goes back to the firewall has been cut. I'm not sure how short it would be. It looks like it goes under the intake manifold but I can't see where it ends up. Anyone know if it's possible to get to the other end of this and where it goes? I'm sure I could take the old one off the old engine but not sure how hard it is to get to it.

 

Found a good picture here. The hose may be long enough by the looks of it. Which is good as I can't see any way I could do that without removing the intake manifold.

 

Replace those two hoses under the manifold $40 I think and well worth it. Also, replace the octopus hose as well as it is a BEAR to get to.

 

At this stage, it's more important to get the car moving before winter sets in than to monkey around. Though I did spend today mostly monkeying around.

 

Hmm. Well, I'm having trouble finding the engine removal instructions in JTIS. I can browse around it fine but if they're in there, I'm not finding them.

I found transmission removal instructions but I'm not sure if that's enough. I found "OK" instructions attached to an exhaust manifold bolt bulletin (http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...st%20bolts.pdf) but no pictures and some really good XJ instructions (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...structions-pdf) which I'm thinking would be good to go for but what I'd really like is a version of the XJ specific for the XK. I guess I will push on regardless in the morning.

 

Well, it's slow going but I'm making progress. However, I noticed that the replacement engine doesn't have the engine mount bracket on the right side (presumably they took it off to get at the starter) so I'll have to take that off of the old engine. Does anybody know what torque those bolts will be?

 

German torque setting- Gutentight.

Use some good loctite while you are at it and it should be good to go.

 

I did that on a 01 xkr and it went pretty well, only thing I'd like to add is slow and steady.
The steering linkage going to the body is a bit of a pain, it gets in the way. So my advise is to have a large platform on wheels so you can push the ensemble forwards a hair as you're lifting the body over, or just leave the wheels on.(didn't process that when I did it)

If you do try and lift the body over BEWARE! on the convertible models when the front suspension engine and trans are out the car has a tendency to rock onto its back wheels. Be sure to set a stand under the diff when the body is up, I also had a colleague hold a rope attached to the front re-bar just to be safe when lifting.


To be honest I find it a little easier to pull the engine out from the top if you only need the engine out, but for stripping down the the bare shell its a lot faster to lift the body.

Good luck

 

Getting close. I've been taking it slow with maybe a few too many and too long breaks. Getting the exhaust off was a bear but truthfully, I was expecting a lot worse based on previous experience. The left engine mount was a little awkward but pretty easy once I moved the PS pump out of the way. Ideally I'd like to get the replacement engine in today so I can put some of the hoses back in place since I don't have plugs. It's due to rain tomorrow.

Wish I had a garage.

 

If you are working near the roof of your house you could attach a tarp to the roof, fan the sides out and attach the tarp to some stones then the back of the tarp to your muffler tips.
Harbor freight is very reasonable for those big ones.

I used to do that when I worked from my backyard, it's not great because it gets extremely humid under there but if your in a hurry to get it done you don't have to let the elements stop you.
Unless an f-5 tornado comes around, then maybe go inside for a cup of coffee

 

There's not really a good place for that. I did consider building a temporary structure but oh well... Maybe a shed with enough space to push a car into.

i got the engine out. It was a chore. Mostly because the chain setup I had and also because the engine lift I got from harbor freight was simply too short. I had to use it on the 1/4 ton setting but it seemed to handle it OK. Unfortunately, when I was detaching the rear chains, the tension caused it to hit the throttle cable thing and break a chunk off. Hopefully that won't cause problems but I'll be trying to work out a way to replace that without buying a whole new throttle body. I also crunched the thing at the front of the engine compartment in the middle. Not sure what that is?

So I'm working up a game plan for getting it all back in. I think it's going to involve rope.

Top tip. the left side engine mount is a lot easier if you move the PS pump.

I think if I was doing it again, I'd probably have disconnected the torque converter from the flywheel with the transmission in the car. I'm also not necessarily convinced that removing the engine with the transmission attached was the best way either.

 

You will be convinced when you can grab an air wrench and remove the bellhousing bolts in 30 seconds vs 2 hours....

 

Well, I don't have an air wrench and I won't be having experience trying to detach the trans in-car but it didn't look too terrible to get at (though I didn't look too closely).

 

So it seems that the thing that I crunched was, as I feared, the impact sensor. I think I only damaged the housing but I'm thinking I should probably go ahead and replace it as if I connected the battery and all my airbags went "pop", I would be decidedly unhappy.