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Found the battery dead - only read two volts and it wouldn't take a charge. I had driven the car about two weeks previous - no problems. Put my BIG charger on the battery, after the trickle wouldn't do it, and got it over 12V. However; when I went to start the car, I got every error I think you can get.
The motor will start and seems to run fine, but the beast won't unlock the shifter out of park. The speedo climbs to ~ 65 MPH, the tach' stays at zero, the odometer reads different numbers but it's something like 174089 or 175628 (real mileage less than 100K). Gas gauge reads empty with the accompanying yellow "low fuel" light illuminated.
The headlight indicator in the speedo stays illuminated all the time; no matter where the headlight switch is placed - before the key is put in the ignition. As soon as I put the key and turn it to "run" the display on the temperature control displays "ER" and I hear nine high tone "beeps". Then the message on the speedo starts scrolling through all these faults right after it says, "System Check":
Incorrect part installed
Boot open (it is)
Low Brake fluid (it's not)
ASC not available
Gear box fault
High Gear box temperature
Failsafe engine mode
Handbrake on (it's not)
I've changed out the battery, tried a remote jump to verify I didn't get a bad battery (read that technique on another string), disconnected the battery (numerous times) for more than a half an hour (to clear the ECU), shorted out battery cables whilst turning the key (to clear the ECU), checked several fuses (itemized in previous threads), let the car run for 20 minutes (in the garage), and looked around for any obvious gnaw marks from animals.
Go and buy a new battery and make sure it is fully charged.
If you're lucky, everything may work again. If you still can't get out of "P" - remove the little "star" plug, push down with the end of the ignition key until you can move the gearshift. Then - start the car in "N".
Go for a drive - your dashboard may look like a Christmas tree and you'll get lots of error messages but don't worry - that's normal.
Do at least 10 miles - stop - turn off ignition - try to start.
If you're lucky, everything may work again.
If not - do the "key in star hole" again - start in "N" and drive home.
Edit - in case that sounds a bit flippant. It's as Bob says, a CAN fault. The ACC needs a temperature signal from the can to function so that's not the issue. The "er" will correct itself once everything else is OK.
Read the codes.
Erase all the codes.
Let us know what, if anything, has improved.
Last edited by DevonDavid; May 22, 2017 at 01:28 PM.
OK, I did the "drive about" for about thirty minutes. Re-start and no joy. Still have all the errors.
When I shut down this time, no green (headlamp) indicator. However, when I twisted the key again - she's back. Put the trickle charger back on the beast.
However; I had air conditioning, radio, headlights, but the dash stayed as described before.
I must agree with the above statements. Somewhere you have a grounding issue. These cars are very delicate when it comes to their electronics and especially after they have sit for a while without being ran started driven etc. I would have an electrical shop look at it honestly. Unless you can find a schematic (maybe a member has one they can post) you might have trouble tracking down this anomalie. I've installed a system in my jaguar that is extremely loud and heavy duty over 4000 watts and once I put my new box in the bass was so loud it rattled a connector loose and the abs and traction control n/a came on. I've figured out what it is but it still does it intermittently. Sometimes going over a bump will even trigger it. But I will say once you have the issue tracked down it should be a simple fix. Once my gas cap loose light came on and it was a small breather hose under the car that wasn't connected and since I plugged it back in it hasn't came back on since. Moisture and other factors could have caused the issue as well. Good luck
Issue:
Some vehicles within the above VIN range may display multiple electrical circuit malfunctions such as:
Multiple warning lights
No messages displayed on the message center
All or some gauges go to zero
Gear selector will not come out of the park position
No A/C operation.
Do NOT replace the instrument pack unless the vehicle shows ALL of the above symptoms of electrical circuit malfunction.
The TSB does NOT say there is no problem unless ALL of the faults are present!!
The TSB states that the INST PK is NOT to be replaced UNLESS ALL of the faults are present!!!!!!!
You are supposed to CHECK and REWORK the solder joints if any of the faults are present.
Is your INST PK marked with the M on the rear cover????
Did you look at the circuit board???
It is a known fault and Jaguar has issued a warning.
(disregard if you want)
Perform a hard reset, but removing both battery cables from the battery and putting them both together to ensure you are fully draining power from the modules.
Connect these back to a genuine DIN85 battery, connecting be positive terminal first
Issue:
Some vehicles within the above VIN range may display multiple electrical circuit malfunctions such as:
Multiple warning lights
No messages displayed on the message center
All or some gauges go to zero
Gear selector will not come out of the park position
No A/C operation.
Do NOT replace the instrument pack unless the vehicle shows ALL of the above symptoms of electrical circuit malfunction.
The TSB does NOT say there is no problem unless ALL of the faults are present!!
The TSB states that the INST PK is NOT to be replaced UNLESS ALL of the faults are present!!!!!!!
You are supposed to CHECK and REWORK the solder joints if any of the faults are present.
Is your INST PK marked with the M on the rear cover????
Did you look at the circuit board???
It is a known fault and Jaguar has issued a warning.
(disregard if you want)
bob
I think you really need to check this. I had the same thing happen to me last fall. Started the car up one morning and it lit up like a Christmas tree. It ended up being the solder joint on the instrument panel. I tried to fix it by cutting the bad solder joint, but this only helped for one day. All the problems came back after two restarts.
I ended up buying a used instrument panel on Ebay. When I got it, I checked for the solder migration on the back circuit board. It did have that problem so I cleaned it up before installing. Problem solved.
OK, after buying an instrument cluster off ebay (thanks Johns55 for the gouge) and installing it; all the previous problems are gone. It was $30 plus 20 handling/shipping. Now half my dash lights aren't working (pulled them and tested them all - check good), but I have no more "dings" going off, tach' works, and it appears all is well in the world again (except I gained 80K miles on the odometer - who cares?).
Hope this thread helps anyone else who gets the gift of WTFO. I never would have figured this out without everyone's help.
OK, the first replacement instrument cluster only had one dash light working. I decided to check continuity on the board with an ohm meter - everything had continuity but with 3 ohms between neighboring holes or 12 ohms from the two end holes. That told me there's probably some voltage bridge with transistors between the lights. So I replaced all the lights from my original cluster, because I knew them as good (I had electrically [12VDC] the bulbs in the second cluster before I installed it but they didn't work). NOTHING - I assume I broke the replacement cluster and so I found another one on ebay ~ $40.
That replacement was a better deal - it only had 80K on it; but only two of the lights worked. Replaced all the bulbs per (I don't have the thread but it's on the forum) the other gentleman's instructions and voilą! Another forum save.
Now I have extra parts, oh boy! I did find some of the bulbs had more than 80 ohms and half the time just taking them out and putting them back in fixed the problem (covalent corrosion?).
And now I have a "low coolant" warning - it's like being married to a beautiful alcoholic stripper: great to look at, lots of problems, and it's going to cost you BIG!
Every error
