Fans working intermitantly or not at all, rad fans.
#1
Fans working intermitantly or not at all, rad fans.
My first post was about an exploding coolant tank and much smoke.
Fixed that and replaced thermostat.
Now I have just replaced the rad shroud and fans as the shroud had broken from heat, time aging. It broke at various places along the centerline allowing the fans to con tact the shroud and wearing the fan blades themselves. I got a used shroud and fans with motors. Tested the motors for 1/2 hour and they functioned fine.
Now the right fan comes on when it feels like, or so it seems. When the a/c is on, it should turn on both fans (I live in Daytona and its most always 90 degrees here). Right now neither fan works. Fuses are intact. Help anyone???????
Wayne
Fixed that and replaced thermostat.
Now I have just replaced the rad shroud and fans as the shroud had broken from heat, time aging. It broke at various places along the centerline allowing the fans to con tact the shroud and wearing the fan blades themselves. I got a used shroud and fans with motors. Tested the motors for 1/2 hour and they functioned fine.
Now the right fan comes on when it feels like, or so it seems. When the a/c is on, it should turn on both fans (I live in Daytona and its most always 90 degrees here). Right now neither fan works. Fuses are intact. Help anyone???????
Wayne
#2
#3
Yes, both fans should run with the AC on and that is an easy test.
There are two relays associated with the two fans. On low speed the fans run in series with each using half of the available 12 volts. On high speed each fan is fed 12 volts. It would appear that one of your relays or associated wiring has failed. The relays are located near the bottom of the radiator.
There are two relays associated with the two fans. On low speed the fans run in series with each using half of the available 12 volts. On high speed each fan is fed 12 volts. It would appear that one of your relays or associated wiring has failed. The relays are located near the bottom of the radiator.
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kulddy (08-06-2015)
#4
#6
Read a few other threads and it seems it could have many sources. Bad wiring harness, bad connectors, faulty temperature sensor.......! The faulty sensor kinda makes sense as the coolant tank did explode and overheating may have happened. The relay and wiring do make sense. Problem is new or used, new I would guess. Just buying someone else's problem (I guess I did that in spades by buying a 15 year old beauty). But how would any of you out there proceed?
#7
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#8
I would prove the sensor first:
1) Determine at what temp the fans are supposed to come on (I believe a quick search on this forum will work). Let's say it is 205 degrees for this example.
2) Using Steve's RealGuage Instructions for calibration (Google Realguage for the "Jagwrangler's" website), I'd hook a POT (potentiometer) to the wire that feeds the temp sensor, being sure to include enough wire length to get to the driver's seat.
It is actually really easy but then I did have the benefit of a pre-made POT that came with Steve's Realguage. A quick trip to radio shack will get what you need.
3) Now hook up a code reader that displays engine temp to the connector under the dash.
4) Turn the POT (essentially increasing the resistance) to the point where you code reader shows 205 degress engine temp (you are fooling the car into thinking the temp is up there by playing with the resistance in the POT - it thinks the temp sensor sees that temp and is displaying that resistance).
You will hear the fans come on. This will prove if the fans will turn on or not when the right temp is reached.. Your reader displays the temp for your reference.
If they don't come on, move to the fan's power supply.
John
1) Determine at what temp the fans are supposed to come on (I believe a quick search on this forum will work). Let's say it is 205 degrees for this example.
2) Using Steve's RealGuage Instructions for calibration (Google Realguage for the "Jagwrangler's" website), I'd hook a POT (potentiometer) to the wire that feeds the temp sensor, being sure to include enough wire length to get to the driver's seat.
It is actually really easy but then I did have the benefit of a pre-made POT that came with Steve's Realguage. A quick trip to radio shack will get what you need.
3) Now hook up a code reader that displays engine temp to the connector under the dash.
4) Turn the POT (essentially increasing the resistance) to the point where you code reader shows 205 degress engine temp (you are fooling the car into thinking the temp is up there by playing with the resistance in the POT - it thinks the temp sensor sees that temp and is displaying that resistance).
You will hear the fans come on. This will prove if the fans will turn on or not when the right temp is reached.. Your reader displays the temp for your reference.
If they don't come on, move to the fan's power supply.
John
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kulddy (08-15-2015)
#9
I replaced the sensor (the other one had loosened from either the over heating or just old. the plastic was really loose as in it would spin if flicked with an index finger). But I cannot find the damn FAN CONTROL MODULE! everyone said it was located under the ABS UNIT, AM I ON THE WRONG SIDE?
SOMEONE SEND ME A PICTURE OF IT IN IT'S HIDING SPOT PLEASE!!! Please?
Sorry to flame, I am just frustrated. Did Leprechauns construct these cars? I just spent an hour trying to retrieve a 10mm combo wrench that I dropped while tightening an earthing point and removing the right hand upper fan shroud nut.
SOMEONE SEND ME A PICTURE OF IT IN IT'S HIDING SPOT PLEASE!!! Please?
Sorry to flame, I am just frustrated. Did Leprechauns construct these cars? I just spent an hour trying to retrieve a 10mm combo wrench that I dropped while tightening an earthing point and removing the right hand upper fan shroud nut.
Last edited by kulddy; 08-15-2015 at 02:30 PM. Reason: Add more
#10
Originally Posted by kulddy
I have the left wheel off, inner fender out. I am looking at the washer tank, two pumps, 1 for the windscreen and 1 for the headlamps. There is no place left for the FCM to be.
HELP
HELP
Sorry, I have not to deal with the relays personally.
Here is a picture from JTIS but note that it is for the XJ8:
And a link to a discussion on the subject:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...l-relay-41622/
I would suggest that you trace the wires from the fans. They will end at the module.
#11
EUREKA, THE KEY WAS LEFT HORN ADJACENT! I looked under the front valence, saw the horn, 4" away opposite the horn on the other side of the panel that the wash tank resivoir was on was the relay looking back at me.
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP! EVERYONE,
Kooldaddy
P.S. The XJ diagram is closer to the actual location than the XK8/R diagram was. I looked through LOTS OF PAGES before I found tha "ADJACENT" bit that was the key. I didn't need to remove the inner fender panel to get to it. It did give me time to wash out some trapped Daytona Sand out though. I an thinking of running a relay of the inter cooler pump to power it and an intercooler fan.
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP! EVERYONE,
Kooldaddy
P.S. The XJ diagram is closer to the actual location than the XK8/R diagram was. I looked through LOTS OF PAGES before I found tha "ADJACENT" bit that was the key. I didn't need to remove the inner fender panel to get to it. It did give me time to wash out some trapped Daytona Sand out though. I an thinking of running a relay of the inter cooler pump to power it and an intercooler fan.
Last edited by kulddy; 08-15-2015 at 06:10 PM. Reason: Additional info
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