Hi Guys,

I must be dense. I've watched the videos and searched all the instructions, but I'm stuck on how to access and remove the old bushing. I must be doing something wrong.

Today I unbolted the driver's side (side without air cleaner) bolts holding the bracket on. The only way I could get my paws near the old bushing was to jack her up, so I did and put her on stands. Super tight fit, sway bar still presses down on old bushing even without U bracket and bolts.

Recap: one side bracket undone. Car on stands.

How does one free the sway bar from pushing down on the bushing and holding it in place? I remember one of us saying he used a big screw driver to pry it up freeing up the bushing but where in the world can you get leverage to do that down there?

There must be an easy answer since many of us have completed this job in 1/2 hour. Would someone please tell me how to get to the bushing so I can remove it?

Should one front wheel be on the ground? Should I disconnect the sway bar linkage? Ah I should shut up and let you guys set me straight. Thanks a bunch.

John

 

Make sure you remove BOTH U clamps holding the anti-sway bar in place. The driver side can be reached from the top, the passenger side not so much (air box is in the way), so remove from the bottom. Front of the car lifted up (I did ramps).

Once BOTH clamps are removed, the bar can be lifted enough to remove the actual bushing. It looks worse than it actually is, but it is a tight fit altogether.

 

Oh Ok thanks Fred, I only had one side removed. Do you (or anyone) know if the wheels should be weighted (ramps), or if unweighted (jack stands) are equally as good?

 

John - when I did mine I did one side at a time - had on jackstands and used a large screw driver as a pry bar - was a bit of a pita but can be done

 

See if this helps it is how i did mine.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

I disconnect the sway bar link on one side. It's a good idea to replace the links also.

 

Steve
Gus
RJ
Fred,

Wanted to thank you guys. Got the job done in about an hour this morning. For folks doing searches in the future some points:

1) the bolts are 10mm
2) you need a 24 inch extension for your ratchet
3) the bolts and the U shaped bracket are magnetic (have your telescoping magnet
ready to retreive anything)
4) I unbolted both sides, this freed the bar enough to easily push it up with your hand so you can remove the old and install the new bushings. On my 1998 there was no way I could move the sway bar with one side attached. I should note that on my car I was lucky and did not have to unbolt or loosen the sway bar links.
5) Contrary to what I expected, the one on the drivers side is much harder to remove / install than the one on the air cleaner side. On 1998 normal aspirated engines, only the top of the air cleaner needs to be removed. The bottom of the enclosure is not in the way at all.
6) Since you are in for a struggle with the bolts on the drivers side, you have to worry about cross threading. These bolts are released from their tight postion with 11 full turns.
7) I on my 1998 found it easiest to remove the wheel on the driver's side. This gives you finger width access to the bolts and bracket from both sides. Since the hoses on the drivers side make it an adventure, for installation I ensured the rear bolt on this side was not cross threadiing by: a) taking the handle off the ratchet and positioning the 24 inch extension with the 10mm attachment with the taped in bolt as close to over the threaded hole as I could (all those hoses in the way allows the 24 inch ratchet to stand up vertical on its own. b) then got on my knees, left hand pressing on the bolt to keep it perfectly plum to the threaded hole in the chassis; right hand on the 24 inch extension top. c) use pressure from left hand to keep bolt plumb, use right hand to start the thread. The first couple of turns are ez if you have it right. d) count the 11 turns to tight. (if it tightens in 3 or 4 turns you are cross threaded, start again)
8) It is a psych thing but take a second and note any fluids around the hose junctions on the driver's side before you start. Like everyone said small movements will not damage anything but I felt my heart drop after I saw oily fluid at one of these connectors after my work. It was already there (I hoped), but since I didn't take the time to note that, I had to take time to monitor it after I was done. If I had looked before hand and made a mental note I would have known it was there already.
9) If I may: Don't waste your time trying to "start" the bolts with your fingers from underneath. There is no way to use your thumb and it's just a waste of your time in the end. You can do it from above with ratchet.
10) If you are having trouble lining up the bracket's hole with the threaded hole below it for installation, move to the other hole in the bracket. I couldn't get the rear holes to line up on passenger side, but it was easy to get the passenger side front bolt going. This lined up the rear holes and the bolts went right in.

The idea to tape the bolt into the socket in Gus' site and everyone else's instructions was perfect. Saved a lot of time and energy.

Does it make a difference? I installed Poly bushings, I can say Yes there is a difference but so far it is no where near as big a difference as the sway bar links were. I'm trying to get a handle on it. Well I'll add to this after a bit more experience, I wasn't in a test drive position where I could go anywhere near pushing the limits.

Thanks everyone,