Guys, yesterday's road trip drove home the need to replace the wheel bearings.

I'm thinking of taking it on myself and have a few planning questions.

1) special tool: looks like there is a tool used to disassemble part of the job (ABS part?). A utube poster swears that you can use a 12 point 2 inch ratchet to properly grasp, torque, and remove the part. Are there viable ways to do the job with tools I may have in the workshop or do I have to get hold of one of these special tools?

2) Parts: obviously I need new bearings, but I've heard mention of "kits". I see Pep boys sells front bearing seals too. Could you please advise me what parts I need to buy to do this job right?

Thanks a bunch,
John

 

You only need to buy or borrow the ABS tool when reinstalling, but you do need it or an equivalent socket. I can see where a tool that locates on the ABS ridges would work better than the factory design because the factory socket needs about 1lb of weight for every lb ft applied in torque to keep it from lifting off the nut.


To remove I recommend just cutting the nuts off with a cut off wheel and buying new if there it ANY rust at all. Even if there isn't any rust, you still may need to cut them off. I used the hammer and chisel method to remove mine (which actually works better for removal than the socket).


Once the nuts are off - 20 Ton Press is a must.


There are no "seals". in addition to the bearing, you need 2 new snap rings per bearing.

 

I bought the 3/4" drive tool and it worked great. You need one person to hold the tool down while turning and I drilled holes in my table top to secure the hub.

The grease seal is used on 4.2L cars and is recommended for the 4.0 also, but I didn't bother. The originals lasted for almost 100K mi without seals.

You can buy Timkin bearings on ebay and I recommend them instead of the cheaper Chinese ones- you don't want to do this twice. And yes, you need a 20 ton press. I bought one from Harbor freight and the overall cost was still far below what it what be if taking the car to a shop.

If you want to borrow the tool, PM me.

 

JCNA has a tool loan program - so if you're a JCNA member......

 

Another, maybe cheaper option on an early car (96-early '99) is to buy spindles from a 1999-2003 XJR from the junkyard.


This can get you 1.) the newer larger bearings that might still be good, 2.) 325mm front brake brackets (that will work with your calipers - just get some 325mm rotors).


I bought a set of spindles w/caliper brackets off of a 2002 XJR from my local Picknpull for about $65.


The spindles have to come out for bearing install, anyway. Might as well upgrade while they are out. If the Bearings are good, it saves a bunch of work.

 

Do you mind telling us how many miles are on the car?

 

Ez I have 102k miles. The frustration is I replaced thes bearings 20 or 30k miles ago. Didn't bother to look at receipt as it is surely out of warranty for that job.

John

 

I have said in the past, if GM cars had the Jag bearing design (with no seal and not even a discourager), people would march on Detroit with torches and pitchforks wanting someone's head.


I wouldn't drive a Jag in Arizona or New Mexico or Florida or south Texas during monsoon season, because just crossing an intersection will fill the bearing full of water and that starts the clock on when it will self destruct.


If you drive a lot in rain, the bigger bearing and the later seal might be something to consider. I try not to drive mine in the rain and I definitely avoid puddles, knowing what I saw when I pressed my bearings out (rusty, crunchy bearings).

 

Ungn, wow great points gotta get my head around d it. RJ, I've decided on the Timkin bearings, have heard such good stuff about them.

A big thanks to everyone, as always I appreciate and value your input.

John

 

Front wheel hub entertainment here.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e2/#post696240