Hello again guys, this afternoon when I returned home from work I tried to change the fuel filter! Jacked the N/S up and put in an axle stand ( Graham ) behind the rear wheel. Located the filter and sprayed with penetrating oil a few times. 2 hours later had not cracked the nuts off the filter. So I sprayed with penetrating oil again and boxed him up for another try tomorrow.
Only using a jack there was limited room to work as the filter is directly behind the jack point.
Any tips on this one, is it a ramps up back end job? Or what do you guys do?
Thanks in advance for any advice or tips.

Arty

 

The line behind the filter, jaguar put a crap load of lock tight on that line. Even when I used a torch on that nut, it was very hard to get the line off, I ended up using a 4 foot plumbers wrench to get it off.

If you break it, just use a 2002 Ford Crown Victoria fuel filter, rubber fuel lines hoses and clamps.$25 bucks in parts. You will have to remove your fuel filter mount possibly, or maybe not,either way, cake work.

 

Arty,

Pleased to hear about the axle stand but won't believe it until I see the photos!

The rear wheels need to be up on ramps to get at the filter. It's sufficiently awkward to undo without adding to the difficulty by not being able to lie directly underneath it.

Very easy to fracture a fuel pipe, especially if it's had a few North East winters of salt spray to help seize the nuts onto the pipes. The usual problem is the union nut seizes on the fuel pipe and this is what makes it difficult to release. Cleaning with a fine wire detailing brush will help the penetrating oil do its work.

Graham

 

Thanks for that Graham, just what I thought but needed confirmation from an " old hand ".
Surprisingly it looks like a nice day today, have an early job so may get a crack at it this afternoon.
Could'nt get far enough away to show the stands, LOL's.

Cheers,
Arty

 

What are you using for penetrating oil?

I regularly see posts from UK members who use WD40 as a penetrating oil.
North American users don't like it as a penetrating oil.

Liquid Wrench seems to be good.

A homemade brew that lots of people swear by is ATF+acetone mixed half and half.

Make sure you are using proper flare wrenches and a backup wrench on the joint.
The backup wrench is to control twisting. Mole grips would be satisfactory
on the hex built into the fuel filter since the filter is being replaced.

Position the wrenches such that you can squeeze the two with one hand.

Sometimes thumping on the wrench with the heel of the hand can be more
effective than a constant force. Sometimes tightening the joint a little bit
will break the corrosion bond.

In either case, once loosened it may be necessary to alternately loosen
and tighten to ultimately clean the threads enough to complete the
removal.

If you have not bought new o-rings remember that they might fall off or
be stuck inside the joint.
++

 

All excellent tips there plums. I have been using both wd40 and Rost off ice. I will bear your recommendations for the atf and acitone in mind. However today when I was going to put him up on the ramps, NO Start! Nightmare.
Checked most things I had done over the last few days and nothing outstanding. So I checked the codes,, p0102 mas or vloume air cct a. P0112, intake air temp sensor 1 low. P1230 manufacturer control. P1111 manufacturer control. P0335 crancshaft pos sensor.
I reset them all and tried again, nothing.
So I thought battery, put the charger on and its been on for the last 4 hours, surprised at that as its not been used since changing the gasket and the drive belt.
I just hope its the battery in one way but could do without the cost of a replacement.
Thanks again for all the info and the tips offered.
Working again tomorrow so will be evening before I can update.
Cheers,
Arty.

 

Neither do I!

I'll add a plea here for information on a European supplier of KANO Kroil:



Penetrating-Lubricating Oils

I keep reading wonderful reports of this US penetrating oil but have so far been unable to find a UK supplier.

It is available on Amazon but the shipping from the US is more than the cost of the product.

Graham

 

This is a case for a good nut buster. The best there is would be Aerokroil from Kano Labs. Nothing is as good as this stuff. Amazon has it but I never see it in retail stores. Next is PB Blaster. If you sprayed Aerokroil on this and let it sit for a few hours, it would come apart normally. I rebuild classic bikes and I could not do it without Kroil, it saves original parts like nothing else.

 

Arty,

Here is the full Jaguar DTC listing for the 1999MY. Online or scantool manufacturer lists are often misleading.

JTIS - DTC List AJ27 1999.pdf

The 'Possible Causes' in the right hand column is the most reliable set to use.

Graham

 

Aerokroil goes a long way, a can will last me for a year. Its worth the shipping cost. Just one saved rare bolt head or fitting will pay the shipping costs many times over. I also use it to coat the very costly stainless exhaust system to keep rust off of it. It will keep rust off of things unless they are submerged. This stuff is a polymer, not a solvent which means it has diffusion at the molecular level. It will get into joints that are tight.

 

I've seen tests on the internet where Liquid Wrench worked better than Kroil or PB Blaster.

I've been thinking ATF+Liquid Wrench or ATF+brake fluid.

The whole point of the acetone/liquid wrench/brake fluid is to help the ATF wick through
the rust.

Acetone evaporates too fast.

 

Thanks for the pdf doc Graham, just wondering if I have moved something when the belt was replaced? Can anyone tell me where the crank position sensor is please? Suspect this is the culprit? Checked to see if the belt was put on correctly and it looks O.K.
Will have to leave it until tomorrow now, thanks for all the help guys really appreciated.
Cheers ,
Arty

 

CPS is located on the forward side of the bellhousing between the engine and transmission..

It is not that likely a candidate since it has not been touched.

More likely the weak battery.

 

Thanks for the quick reply plums, was clutching at straws for a moment. I will put the battery on charge when I go out in the morning and give it another try when I return.
Thanks again for taking the trouble to help out.
Arty

 

2014
Machinist Workshop magazine studied the most popular penetrating oils to see
what did the best job of removing rusted bolts by measuring the pounds of torque
required to loosen the bolt. I'm not sure just what flavor bolt they were using
that would take 516 pounds of torque but it must have been a monster.
These were the results they published:
Penetrating oil: Average load:
None...................................516 lbs.
WD-40.................................238 lbs.
PB Blaster.............................214 lbs.
Liquid Wrench........................127 lbs.
Kano Kroil..............................106 lbs.
ATF-Acetone mix......................53 lbs.
“The Auto Trans fluid- acetone mix was a "home-brew" mix of 50-50 ATF-acetone.
The home brew tested better than the commercial products in this test.

However, I usually add some heat with a torch to help crack the nut or bolt , then spray penetrating oil , so it works on spot. Other than that, the home brew is the best as of now.