further fault code information on 99 xk8, it's a mystery!
#1
further fault code information on 99 xk8, it's a mystery!
got the car back from the shop, they replaced the plugs, mass air meter, fuel filter, checked injectors and coil packs and drove it about 400 miles.
still have check engine light, they told me it would be back, they could not get rid of it.
car says stability control in the little area
fault codes
p0300 random misfire, tech states car runs fine.
p0301 cyla1
p0302cyl a2
etc all the way to p0308.
permanent p1316 misfire rate
p1316 misfire rate
pending p1000 system check not completed since last memory clear
any ideas?????
also, does anyone know which scanner works on this car specifically????
still have check engine light, they told me it would be back, they could not get rid of it.
car says stability control in the little area
fault codes
p0300 random misfire, tech states car runs fine.
p0301 cyla1
p0302cyl a2
etc all the way to p0308.
permanent p1316 misfire rate
p1316 misfire rate
pending p1000 system check not completed since last memory clear
any ideas?????
also, does anyone know which scanner works on this car specifically????
#2
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further research reveals
i just started up the car, looking at the volt meter on the dash...it settles on 11 volts till i start it then goes to 13. i am wondering if this is not correct?
when i turn on the lights it matters not on battery drain before starting the engine.
are these dash guages accurate enough to tell me the battery is just shy of being sound? i am guessing the next thing to do it have it tested at a pep boys or auto zone so if it's at fault i can get a new one on the spot?
when i turn on the lights it matters not on battery drain before starting the engine.
are these dash guages accurate enough to tell me the battery is just shy of being sound? i am guessing the next thing to do it have it tested at a pep boys or auto zone so if it's at fault i can get a new one on the spot?
#5
A multi-meter is the most accurate way for determining the voltage present. The battery at rest should be from 12.6 to 13 volts. Running the alternator should be delivering 13.6 to 14 volts. I would get the battery load tested. ***** battery is the major cause of codes and issues for Jags. They just don't like low voltages.
#6
Thank you
I suspect the same enough to have it tested tomorrow. I know from former owner it sat for two years with this battery completely dead. It's also a csaa delivered battery which is an auto club service ... Not always the right cold crank spec .. Just the right fit they had on the truck
That day!
I suspect the same enough to have it tested tomorrow. I know from former owner it sat for two years with this battery completely dead. It's also a csaa delivered battery which is an auto club service ... Not always the right cold crank spec .. Just the right fit they had on the truck
That day!
#7
The factory gauges do not provide a reliable measurement value. The temperature gauge goes to dead center and stays there along with the voltage gauge, and oil pressure gauge as well, just a bunch of 'feel good gauges'. Unless 'RealGauge' has been installed, the factory gauges will tell you all is fine, until it is not. This especially rings true with the temperature gauge, as it will sit at dead center until just before it overheats, and then will shoot into the red, giving you little to no warning, or time to react to the situation before possible engine damage occurs.
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#8
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I'm impressed that you got any sort of charge into it, let alone enough to run the car, if it sat that long fully discharged and it definitely won't have done any good.
For basic code scanning, ELM327 type bluetooth/wifi OBD-II adaptors are cheap as chips and there's good software out there for iPhone/Android for very little money. I use 'Torque' on my old Sammy Galaxy S2. Cost for the adaptor and software is less than $15.
HTH,
Mike
For basic code scanning, ELM327 type bluetooth/wifi OBD-II adaptors are cheap as chips and there's good software out there for iPhone/Android for very little money. I use 'Torque' on my old Sammy Galaxy S2. Cost for the adaptor and software is less than $15.
HTH,
Mike
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so i have now a new Bosch batter with max cca of about 600 i think.
i have driven about 30 miles with no check engine light...we will see if this is it?
charge system is good....old battery was at about 11.3 volts, so it started but my theory is that a ramdom misfire on all cyl, which i have, is caused by the cpu switching between a poor battery and the alternator for power and skipping a beat when it hits the poor battery, durring the micro switch it throws a ramdom misfire code as power is too low....anyway...lets see what a new battery does, at least i know it will start every time...till the next thing. it's a restoration project....
i have driven about 30 miles with no check engine light...we will see if this is it?
charge system is good....old battery was at about 11.3 volts, so it started but my theory is that a ramdom misfire on all cyl, which i have, is caused by the cpu switching between a poor battery and the alternator for power and skipping a beat when it hits the poor battery, durring the micro switch it throws a ramdom misfire code as power is too low....anyway...lets see what a new battery does, at least i know it will start every time...till the next thing. it's a restoration project....
#14
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