So decided on a rare dry day to take the cat out to stretch its legs. Been idle for 3 weeks. Started up fine, turned on both heated seats as was a bit chilly and waited for the Mrs. A few seconds after she got in the very small centre console lights behind the heated seat switches both went out, but.... the seats still got warm! We ventured off anyhow thinking it might all rectify itself on next start up. During journey absolutely no heat came from the vents even tho the temp was set on 28'C and neither was i able to turn on fog lamps - not that i needed them, but checked those switches as they are next in the that row on the console. Vent direction buttons all worked fine. DCS was not working tho.

When home again checked a load of fuses and found that fuse #3 in the engine had blown - 'Security sounder, headlight levelling, centre console switchpack, HID ride height sensors, ignition +Ve to engine compartment fuse box relays 1 and 2.' Replaced with spare and boom, blown again.

I now cannot now get the gear shifter out of Park mode (to potentially take it to a garage) - curious as on my journey today (where i assume the fuse had already blown when i took off), i was able to stop and start 3 times before i got home. The only thing ive done at home was a hard reset, hoping this might clear gremlins that could be causing the issue.

Any help on what might be causing the short and thoughts on why suddenly he gear selector has stuck in Park, would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Jules

 

Jules, I don't want to feed you more than you are asking for. Without testing and troubleshooting I'd just be guessing.

I took a look for you. Fuse 3 is a 5 amp fuse that feeds the circuit you described. It is ignition fed. The diagram shows it going to a spiced connector that branches into all of the circuits you mentioned.

Seems to me that if you feel like it, one of these branches will show a short circuit on your meter, providing you can isolate it by disconnecting each connector after that splice.

The diagram shows harness# connector # pin#. From that when I see LFS5 that says harness# LF S (for splice) 5 (splice #5). Therefore it appears the splice is a soldered joint, not a connector. This splice branched into about 8 wires. The good news is just about all of them have a connector nearby. You can disconnect each leg at the connector and read continuity to ground (aka a short).

Pain in the neck, but Jaguar was nice enough to tell you exactly where to look and what to look for.

Let's see how many of these screen shots I can attach for you. John

 

Looks like 1 per post.

 

 

 

 

If I had to bet on it I would go straight to the security sounder in the front, righthand wheel arch and disconnect it. These have a growing reputation for grounding as the small re-chargeable batteries gently corrode away having reached life's end and a bit more!!

The selector problem might be caused by something else as it's not in Fuse 3's circuits! Perhaps one thing at a time?

 

Great suggestion Astromorg.

John

 

Thanks both. Im way too poor on electrics to understand much of your great diagrams John, but thanks none the less.

Astromorg: i agree, sounds like a great suggestion to look at first. Where exactly is this pesky security sounder in front r/h wheel arch? And if it is the cause, is it easy to replace?

Thanks.

 

Take a look at this thread https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ponent-220193/

 

Thanks a lot for this Norri. just the job.

Will have a look over next couple of days. Hopefully once disconnected and sealed, fresh 5 amp fuse installed, start up will once again get everything working. i am a little unsure though as a heavy hail storm just now activated the sensor alarm and all hell broke lose - as it usually does. So maybe the security sounder in not frazzled after all.

I am keeping all digits crossed that the gear stick will release once it knows that all fuses are working - but i know that system has no direct connection to fuse #3 in the engine bay.

Jules

 

Check the shifter console, there is a plastic plug on it. Remove the plug and use a tool to bypass the interlock solenoid. Should be in the owner's manual (check the stickies for a link to the PDF). This should let you get out of (P)ark.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

Ok, so it was the security sounder that was causing the short as after disconnect and taping off, replacing 5amp fuse, all the console switches and heating was working again. Thanks again to Astromorg for that gem of a tip!

Using the info in the owners manual, i did the manual override on the gear stick stuck in Park, and got the car started and went for a drive for 20 mins. Stopped, then tried to restart and it was stuck once again. Did the manual override once more, went for another drive, stopped and again it was stuck.

Ive checked the fuse listing and can only see two fuses connected to the gear selector/shifter; in fascia fuse box nos 7 and 16. Checked both and they are fine. So ive come to a bit of a halt.

As an aside, my check DSC warning light come on for the first time in a while whilst i was on the move today, which ive found is usually a sign the battery needs an extra boost - which it is now getting via RECOND option on the CTEK. Could a poor battery performance in anyway contribute to my gear stick troubles?

Any help greatly appreciated as always.

Jules

 

That interlock solenoid releases out of (P)ark when the brake is applied, as per input from the brake switch. As you press the brakes (lightly is enough, no need to jam), you should hear and feel a faint "thump" on the upper left side of the shifter console. You should also hear a very faint click of the brake switch in the foot well. This is probably best tested ignition on, but engine off so it is more quiet. Also a good time to check if your brake lights even come on. As all these circuits are based on control modules, make sure the ignition is on at least. Failed brake switches are VERY common, but typically lead to the "no cruise, check rear lights" message, so maybe the solenoid is bad.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

Already solved the #3 fuse issue, but now solved the 'stuck in Park' problem, thanks to another helpful bit of advice.

Shout out to Fmertz for suggesting to check the brake lights, as I found the upper mounted stop light cluster was not coming on. No 'check rear lights' warning on dash tho, which is bemusing, but, found the #8 fuse in the boot was blown. Replaced, and BOOOOM.... everything is working as it should. Great relief!

So at the end of all this, all that I dont have now that I did have before is the 'chirp' when locking the car due to the dodgy security sounder. Can live with that.

Thanks again
Jules