I got the dreaded gearbox fault today. The code is P0706. I am starting my quest to solve this problem. Just keep fixing issues I find until the problem is solved. I took off the J gate and this is what I found.
It looks like the arm is missing from the bottom micro switch. I could not find the arm. Would this cause the fault? The switches are riveted to that metal bracket and do not look that they can be replaced. What is that whole unit called? I've searched on how to remove the center console, but I have had no luck. This forum has been great with sharing information and I promise to post how the issue was eventually resolved. I bought this car because the transmission had been replaced, so I am thinking it's not an internal problem. I have put about 12,000 miles on the car since I purchased it. Thanks.
I should add that the switch I used was an OMRON D2SW-3L3MS. It's sealed and less than $10.
I stole that line from another thread. After you do your search look carefully at pictures provided. You'll want switches with mounting holes. You'll have to careful drill out the rivet. It's not hard. Stop as soon as the head falls off and knock what's left of the switch out of the bracket. Then, position and screw in the new switch. You'll need to find appropriate little screws.
Check on/off orientation of the old switch just so you'll know what to be needing out if the new switch when wiring for off and on. It's not a bad job, just take your time.
Does the car start in NEUTRAL?
If YES, then No Fault Found.(the 2 micro-switches are for PARK/NEUTRAL starting)
The D4 micro-switch is part of the SELECTOR LEVER ILLUMINATION MODULE assy. (not the selector lever housing)
I'll check to see if it starts in neutral. If I understand you correctly that broken micro switch is not part of my gearbox fault. Where is that D4 switch located? Thanks.
I should add that the switch I used was an OMRON D2SW-3L3MS. It's sealed and less than $10.
I stole that line from another thread. After you do your search look carefully at pictures provided. You'll want switches with mounting holes. You'll have to careful drill out the rivet. It's not hard. Stop as soon as the head falls off and knock what's left of the switch out of the bracket. Then, position and screw in the new switch. You'll need to find appropriate little screws.
Check on/off orientation of the old switch just so you'll know what to be needing out if the new switch when wiring for off and on. It's not a bad job, just take your time.
One online source for that microswitch is mouser.com....
yup^^^^
Just copy and paste the switch info from the post and all kinds of options will come up. Be careful, although sometimes the old arm (if you can find it or have it) will fit the new switch you don't want to buy a switch with a roller or some other configuration. Just a short flat arm, roughly the length of the switch itself, like the one that you have on the second (good) switch you have there.
Here is the location of the Selector Lever Illumination Assembly. I think it is also known as the D-4 switch.
The switch closes properly. The plastic actuator is not broken. I cleaned the connection. I will drive it after I clear the codes. If the fault returns, I will do the cable adjustment next. I hate to drive a car without actually doing a repair and chance getting stuck somewhere.
I tried to clear the codes with my current code reader and it would not pair with the car anymore. I am waiting on a new Jaguar code reader.
Here is the location of the Selector Lever Illumination Assembly. I think it is also known as the D-4 switch.
The switch closes properly. The plastic actuator is not broken. I cleaned the connection. I will drive it after I clear the codes. If the fault returns, I will do the cable adjustment next. I hate to drive a car without actually doing a repair and chance getting stuck somewhere.
I tried to clear the codes with my current code reader and it would not pair with the car anymore. I am waiting on a new Jaguar code reader.
I'm glad you put this up today, helped remind me...
That switch that I think you are focused on is not (someone correct me) really the one that you need be so worried about. I believe that that is the switch that tells the car you have moved the shifter over (left) and are now driving in the manual mode...
The two switches that you need to be concerned with (if at all) are the 2 in the right side (front to back of car) on the shifter assembly. From the photo the arm on your NEUTRAL switch is missing and then forward of that, the PARK switch arm is there...
More importantly. My suggestion of that mouser switch and number in the previous post is WRONG, I believe. I think the switches in the shifter are smaller. Coincidentally, I am replacing one (I'm just going ahead and doing both) are a smaller switch. I had mine out today (in the 2002 XK8) and they are noticably smaller. The switch named I are more for the micros in the door and will interfere with the movement of the stick/shifter and in short time (mine lasted 6months) the stick/shifter coming up against the back side of the switch will break the arm off and make for a bumpy slide of the stick thru the gears...
I don't KNOW if this is the correct switch but I ordered 3 of these today. We'll see if they work.. DC3C-C3AA
I got my code reader today and no codes are showing and the CEL is off. I'll drive it for a while and see what happens. I really didn't fix anything and I hope I don't get stranded somewhere.
I'm glad you put this up today, helped remind me...
That switch that I think you are focused on is not (someone correct me) really the one that you need be so worried about. I believe that that is the switch that tells the car you have moved the shifter over (left) and are now driving in the manual mode...
The two switches that you need to be concerned with (if at all) are the 2 in the right side (front to back of car) on the shifter assembly. From the photo the arm on your NEUTRAL switch is missing and then forward of that, the PARK switch arm is there...
More importantly. My suggestion of that mouser switch and number in the previous post is WRONG, I believe. I think the switches in the shifter are smaller. Coincidentally, I am replacing one (I'm just going ahead and doing both) are a smaller switch. I had mine out today (in the 2002 XK8) and they are noticably smaller. The switch named I are more for the micros in the door and will interfere with the movement of the stick/shifter and in short time (mine lasted 6months) the stick/shifter coming up against the back side of the switch will break the arm off and make for a bumpy slide of the stick thru the gears...
I don't KNOW if this is the correct switch but I ordered 3 of these today. We'll see if they work.. DC3C-C3AA
Just to touch base. The switch above is the right SIZED switch but in installing the switch (which did still work) I realized that instead of the wiring emerging from the switch at the TOP (like OEM) the wiring emerged from the bottom. I thought it might be a problem but went ahead. At the end the switch did work and it was just a matter of routing the new wiring that came out of the switch around to reach its associated plug (on the other side of the shifter of course).
I used two small screws that bit well into the plastic of the switch, then drilled out a bit of a recess to allow the screw to sit flush to the face of the bracket that holds it... worked well
O Boy! Got a new code reader. Codes out the wazoo!
I'll start with the P's: 0706,1722,1731,1798,1799. I'll look these up and start addressing the issues.
At this point in time, my plan is to start with cleaning the ABS sensors and to check the ABS module for the solder fault. My code reader also reads battery voltage of 11.71 volts with the engine not running. This seems a bit low. Should I get a new battery first? Thanks.
Also,,, I've never had a code reader that gives a voltage that I get when using a DMM at the battery and fuse boxes. Jus say'n... try reading g your voltage at the terminals and at the under hood fuse blocks. At the 13mm cable posts...
