I finally figured out why I can't get my car out of park without using the override. The Not In Park microswitch is MISSING it's metal tab, the one that pushes down on the little button when the shifter actuates it.

I'm looking for the cheapest option here, but I'm open to anything just to get rid of this minor annoyance. Is it possible to permanently disable the switch? I could live without that safety switch. If not, is it possible to repair it? I was thinking of sticking a new metal tab in there or something. My third option would be buying a new one, but I can't seem to even find a part number because I don't know what the proper name for it is.

If it helps, it's the microswitch that is on a bracket to the right of the J-gate assembly. When you press the switch and the brakes, it activates a solenoid that allows you to shift into gear.

This is regarding the '04 XKR

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GL5XiBIQ%3d%3d

You can get any switch you need from these guys. The one in the link is for the door but I'd bet the XK uses the same micro switch for a lot of different locations.

 

I know the earlier XK's you could buy parts individually to rebuild it. I don't think there is much difference. Do you have a dealer near you, may ask if they have one available.


What you're describing is the brake shift interlock. Are you sure the metal tab is broken off and not just bent? May need to disassemble to a point where you can improvise something to work for the time being. Otherwise you'll need to find a second hand one, or dealer for new.

 

Is it broken off? Well, yes it's missing. It had me stumped for a week until I looked at pictures from other owners and noticed mine doesn't have the little metal tab.

So, I decided to get rid of the biggest inconvenience of this problem, forever. The shift lock itself. So, here's what I did: I removed the shift lock solenoid, and removed the hook the solenoid actuates. By doing that, I effectively deleted the shift lock feature. I put the solenoid back in without the hook, connected all the cables, reconnected the battery and started the car. Presto! I can now move the car from P to 5 to my hearts desire. Is it dangerous? You betcha!. But, I don't have kids so I don't care. Best of all, there are no Warning Lights on the dash regarding the matter.

I still do get the beeping after removing the key for something like 5 or 10 seconds, but I can live with that until I can source a microswitch.


That is amazing, and those prices are sweet! Sooo... I'll contact you if I have any trouble browsing that site.

From other threads, it seems I'm looking for an open type limit switch (always on except when actuated?) Does anyone know the current and force, etc I should opt for? I'm tempted to buy the one you linked to but I'm afraid it might not be exactly the one.

 

Gian - check out SNG Barratts - their new online catalog is pretty awesome and should get you to the part number you need

https://www.sngbarratt.com/us/#!/Eng...TROL-AUTOMATIC

 

I've checked. The microswitch is part of the Linear switch and, as such, buying from SNGBarrat would be paying the full $268.10 for a switch that technically still works. They don't sell the individual microswitch.

 

Are you sure the blade is not "there" somewhere? It must have fallen off when you disassemble the shifter. The center console is not that hard to remove (start with the arm rest and go from there). Use a magnet and fish around. Double check the narrow space between the console and the seats. When all else fails, get a fresh pair of eyes and describe what you are looking for. Sometimes, you will be amazed at what a 10yo can identify. Good luck.

 

Without seeing the switch as I don't have this model , microswitches alone are commonly available ( Ebay and Amazon ) with the different types of arms . Would need to know the throw or button depression dimension and can be obtained by the part number stamped on the microswitch itself . Which switch is it as this pic is dependent on the VIN #

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...trol-automatic

 

I have a shifter assy laying around and I'll ship the switch and/or the blade for cost of shipping, PM me. Actually, if it fits in an envelope it may be under a buck so N/C.

 

PM sent.

 

I've disassembled the entire console already and couldn't locate it. I had to readjust the shifter cable and I also replaced the broken Shifter Trim Plate (PRND) with an aluminum aftermarket trim plate. I'm sure it is in there somewhere, but I don't have the time, as a dental medicine student, to fish around. I also don't have a 10 yo available..

 

You can buy any old microswitch (like this ) :
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/microswitches/3012270/
and remove the lever, cut it to the correct length, bend it to the correct profile, and clip it on to the one that's already there. If it isn't holding properly, drill a 1mm hole and insert a bit of stiff wire (like the Apple sim card removal tool) through the tabs and switch with a tiny bend at each to secure it in place.

But ......... the correct length are profile and important, so it helps if you have an "original" from which to make the copy.

 

Since this thread has resurfaced in another thread, I feel compelled to offer the resolution.

dsnyder586 sent me two microswitch tabs. I tried one on and it fit like a glove. I no longer have the car beeping at me when I take the key off of the ignition in park. However, since I removed the shift interlock solenoid, I will also never not be able to shift out of Park ever again.