I inherited my brothers 01 xk8. He put a lot of work into it before he parked it. He was in a bad motorcycle wreck and unfortunately he passed. I have been restoring it in memory of him. He left a very nice stereo in the car he customized
Pioneer x7800bt flip out DVD
Orion hcca 5000.1d
Rockford Fosgate 800A4
Orion hcca 10s in a ported box black coil
4 batteries (1 yellow top 1 red top optima 2 Northstar agm80s)
Custom built 200 amp alternator
Multiple runs of 4/0 welding cable
I am about to replace the upper shock mounts I have the parts but need to rent a spring compressing tool. I replaced the valve cover gaskets as the mechanic he sent the car to didn't install them properly and the leaked onto the exhaust manifolds. I used the Victor reinz gaskets but used a generous amount of rtv on the front and rear of the gasket. I also replaced the camshaft position sensor seals. The quick disconnect hose was also broken that runs from the pcv valve to the throttle body causing the bank 1 and 2 lean codes to appear. I wiggled the hose into the hole and sealed it with some rtv for a temporary fix. The codes have yet to come back after driving close to 200miles. He also removed the rear mufflers and resonator and installed an x pipe. It sounds great and has just enough rumble to enjoy but not draw attention from police. He replaced the motor before he parked it and installed some nice 20inch rims that are muscle car style. The shock mounts and any other suspension issues will be addressed next. He also replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses and many other cooling components (radiator water pump coolant expansion tank).
He also replaced the power steering cooler. The motor was swapped with an 02 xk8 motor that had 50k miles on it at 102.8k miles. He was a good guy he had a bit of a temper at times but I'd like to hold onto this car in his honor. He got frustrated with the car at a point because he had put so much time and money into it. The car runs great now and is achieving 15.2mpg average. I'll try to post some pictures of the system if I can. It is VERY VERY LOUD and the best setup I've ever had in a vehicle. I don't plan on driving the car too much as I have another beater vehicle that gets great gas mileage for work. I would like to take the car to shows eventually. I know why he enjoyed the car and held onto it; it's a blast to drive and receives a lot of compliments. I am hoping to get some help here and there to save some money and do the work myself. He would fix anything on the car he could. Any advice is welcomed.

 

Welcome to the forum joelsjag,

Good to have you with us at Jaguar forums.

The 'HOW TO' thread at the top is a good place to start for information on regular issues.

Please remember to add vehicle details to your Signature to help others to give relevant advice. Go to the User CP button on the left of the top menu bar, then Settings & Options under Your Control Panel. Select Edit Signature and enter the details.

You can also visit the US Lower Atlantic Region forum by following this link https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/usa-lower-atlantic-nc-sc-fl-ga-66/ to find other members in your region.

Enjoy the forums.

Graham

 

Joelsjag, What is you location?
Sad you don't have him to help, lots of help here and the DIY section is the best.
Oh, lots of stuff to check out and keep the battery up to par is the first.

Wayne

 

Hopefully, the purpose of that visit to the mechanic was to inspect and possibly upgrade the secondary chain tensioners. They are a MAJOR flaw on the earlier engines. Many on this list will tell you to park the car until you know for sure you are _not_ running the original plastic parts (you want the third generation metal parts). Seriously, unless you already know, reach out to that mechanic and find out before your next outing. All it takes is removing the valve covers to find out. There are great pictures here:

experience-pics-replacing-upper-cam-chain-tensioners-2-post-pics-how-52653/

Regarding RTV, many of us always fear that any excess will somehow ooze out of the gasket area, get loose, and possibly clog an oil passage. You might want to revisit and remove all excess, if not all of it.

Best of luck, and don't hesitate to reach out to this forum for any further assistance.

 

Thank you all for the replies and information. I checked the tensioners at least the upper ones for any signs of cracks or damage. They appear to be the metal ones because I have heard horror stories and that is why he replaced the motor. The guy who helped him didn't put the cam locker on the other side and the entire driver side had hardly any compression due to the timing be off. The replacement motor had the cover pulled when it was up at the shop to inspect the tensioners and according to his receipts the tensioners all around are the updated metal ones. Regarding the valve cover gaskets and the rtv I barely used any in those areas and I wiped the areas down to clean the excess off. I let the material dry for a day as I had to order the cam shaft seals because they didn't come in the valve cover gasket kit. I had read a lot of the times the gasket will shift or move causing it to. It seat properly so I figured a small generous amount would hold it in place for it to seat and not tear in this case it worked well. No more oil leaks on either side. It was leaking pretty bad on the drivers side. I'll have to go on here today and post a signature. The


Picture of the trunk. He installed everything by himself. He loved a loud stereo. One of the yellows was donated to my other car that needed a battery.

 

I was wondering I should go ahead and replace my shocks. They're the not cats. Just the regular shocks.I hears bilstein is good. Can someone send me a link of what I would need? Does the shock come with the lower bushing installed already. I changed one shock mount today and it rids much better but the bottom bushings are worn out . Let me know what I should get for a reasonable price preferably some they have used and would recommend.
Thanks,
Marc

 

I found these on ebay. It's a set of the front and rear. I think I'm going to do those as well while I'm at it and perhaps if the sway bar bushings are good they were on the front driver upper a arm bushings were good as well. Let me know what you guys think of this kit and if reusing the stock springs will be ok. Thanks again
Marc

 

Marc, that is a good price, so go for it and get the top front shock mounts also.
Jon89 and I put in the poly ones on his and he is very pleased. Get the ones off Ebay that are put together, the others are a pain. Use a good coating of silicone grease on anything poly.

Wayne

 

$105/shock shipped is about the going rate for shocks. The fronts don't come with new boots/bump stops. You can get these aftermarket for around $10 each.

 

Thank you for the replies. I got 2 of the front shocks to replace first along with the poly urethane shock mounts from welsh. Could you post a link of these boots/bump stops I would need?
Thanks
Marc

 

Marc, in case you didn't see it, one of us has found it nearly impossible to get a replacement for the plastic seat that sits below the front Springs, so be careful not to damage them.

John

 

Thanks for the reply. They are there but the shock I changed the mount on the piece was missing tabs. Perhaps I'll have to ask my machinist to recreate some. I've been learning Mastercam and machine g code but I don't think I could make such an intricate part.
Marc

 

I used Moog K90460 from Rock auto. They were cheaper a year ago (I think around $9/each), but now they are $14/ea + shipping.

 

Awesome. Thank you very much. I got the shock mounts yesterday and the bilstein struts today. Im looking forward to better ride quality.

 

Don't forget the rear upper spring isolators
MOOG 90409 {#MMD3565AA} or KYB SM5358

Both are available from Rock Auto

bob

 

Bob,

Do you know if the KYB 5358 is stiffer than the Moog 90409?

I have the Moog part now, but I want about 1/2" more in height. Someone said their was a stiffer urethane version of the rear isolater. I haven't been able to find it.

 

Haha batteries won't be any problem. I have 4 of them now. I sold one as I think it was putting a strain on the alternator running those amps and trying to charge those batteries. But it is a custom made 200 amp but that's at 1800 rpm. I charge them every 2 weeks or every month. They drop to maybe 80 percent capacity. Wayne I live in Jacksonville FL. Anyway to the member asking about the system (I'm sorry I forgot your username) with the right wiring kit you should be able to use the factory Alpine amplifier with the new head unit.

This was such a PITA to figure where to route these wires and theres no way for the grommet on the driver side to fit any other way. It's 4/0 it's HUGE. Even if I trimmed it down some the 1/0 wire would be I'm the way. Perhaps another custom block? It runs across the shroud which is OK it doesn't get hot and it's grade A welding cable. The other side I did nicely and got the rubber grommets to fit back on perfectly i just cut a tiny slit in it. The silver tinned JL wire looks out of place but I didn't want the hood to crush it. It runs through the brake compartment through that grommet below the windshield weather stripping zip tied away from heat. It goes into the the other compartment where the ECU and TCU are. I know what you're thinking why would you do that???
1. There is a hole I drilled to get both 1/0 cables through the floor/firewall so I could run them under the carpet
2. The fuse blocks are in there with the TCU and ECU so there isn't any worry of anything shorting out and if those fuses blow then all of the electricity will stop flowing and prevent any damage. So far so good and the ones in the trunk that have been back there for a year haven't changed color or anything. Custom 4th order box I designed for my 2 Orion hcca subwoofers. Waiting on recones as I blew them. The guy didn't want to honor my warranty but since I had spent over 3 grand on equipment I said well you won't get my business again. Got the run around this isn't right that isn't right you probably haven't even added a battery I had 3 back there to begin with that came out of my other car that was wrecked. Long story short recones will be here next week and they are drop in. thank God
This box will play all sorts of music it's not just for booming rap. It'll play classical rock country anything and sound great. It is a sealed box inside a ported box. The speakers are going to sit in the sealed chamber (or I may invert them so the magnet sticks out and the pole can vent through the port) and this will provide a nice flat response that sealed boxes have while getting loud and moving air like a ported box.
Don't know if you can actually see it but this is the birth sheet to my old school Rockford 800a4 punch. Not effecient due to being a class a/b but paired with the re triple x components ugh..

You have to hear it; it sounds absolutely beautiful. I know I'll regret this when I'm older but it's not the bass that makes you go deaf. It's the door speakers! We don't normally hear frequencies that low and I know very few people that talk that low. This has the hpf (high pass filter) on the radio set to 120hz so nothing below that will play through my door speakers. No bass just high mid bass.


​​​ I tried to make this look as factory as possible. I have 2 4/0 welding cables on a custom block I made at the machine shop with thick set screws like an amplifier has to hold the heavy cable in place. It works great I yanked on it and it's not going anywhere. Yes the one welding cable is running through the abs modulator but that doesn't move so it's fine and it runs across the fan shroud down past the intake to the alt block. The other one runs below the hood line and connects to the other box.
Sorry I didn't get the head unit in the picture. I just got a new phone I'll take one today. As you can see the voltage is above the middle 13 and with all the wire upgrades it actually sits at 14.3 with the AC and fans running full blast which was an incredible increase over factory. 14.6 14.7 without the AC/fans on.
Custom alt block I made on the CNC at work. Well I drew it out and the program translated it to g code and cut the part for me and even tapped the holes. Mastercam and toolpaths are awesome. I did attach the factory wire. Had to get a bolt from ace and make the hold on the lug larger Anyways this is what's up so far. I'm down 2 subs so no bass but the recones will be here next week hopefully and the box will fit right in my back seat and yes the convertible top will still go down (manually that is) :/

This is not for everyone I understand but I'm doing it for my brother he wanted to take the car to shows and audio competitions. Will be the loudest convertible jaguar hopefully! Going for a 150db hit 145 in that small prefab box with just 3 batteries.