I can't find any guides on how to change the power steering oil pump.

From looking at it, it seems I have to:
1. Drain the oil
2. Remove the belt
3. Disconnect the low pressure reservoir hose
4. Remove a few bolts

Is that it? Are there any torque specifications for tightening the bolts? Can I use RTV gasket sealant?

 

Here's section 57.20.14 (Power Steering Pump) from JTIS:

JTIS - XK8 Power Steering Pump.pdf

PAS pump hose union torque is 22-28 Nm.

Graham

 

That's just what I needed! Is a new reservoir necessary? I already have a new pump (remanufactured) but I don't have a new reservoir. I already changed the hose that connects the two parts.

It doesn't look like too hard a job.

How do I set the bonnet to the service access position?

 

To raise the hood into the vertical service position, you must remove a small metal clip on each hood strut. With these clips removed, you can then remove the strut ***** from their sockets. This will allow you to move the hood up to the vertical position. Once there, put some long bolts through the hood hinge holes to keep the hood from slamming down on top of you....

I used needle-nose pliers to remove the small metal clips on the struts. These clips are under significant spring tension and if they get away from you during removal, they can fly 20 feet or more. So be very careful when removing them. You may want to wrap that area of the strut in a rag while you work so if the clip decides to fly, the rag will catch it and save you from having to spend an hour looking for it....

 

Seems simple enough.

Finally, last questions.
Can I use RTV to make sure there are no leaks as you would do with the valve covers and the water pump?

Somewhere I read that special tools are required to get to one of the bolts. I think its a Crow's Foot Wrench. What size is it and is this special wrench necessary?

 

On my 99 XK8 There was no need to fuss with the oil dipstick tube, no bolt / nut on the back rearward side of the car, and no need to struggle to remove the top hose at the pump (all shown in the JTIS) simply remove it at the reservoir.

Everything was removable from the front. There is a lot more room if you remove the fan assembly first (two nuts, three connectors, and I removed my upper radiator tank connection.).. I also removed the tensioner assembly (one bolt). I found it easier to loosen the pump then remove the bottom high pressure line connection. Otherwise you could try a crows foot.

These hose clamps are beasts, time to invest in hose clamp removing pliers. The hoses will winch off after the clamps are moved if you repeatedly grab them (carefully) with pliers just beyond the plastic barbed ends inside the hose.

The hardest part of the job was messing with the oil dipstick and removing the top hose at the pump which were unnecessary to remove the pump.

 

That information would have come in handy 5 years ago for sure.

 

fan off. take off top hose. unbolt pump and loosen the 22mm line

twist pump till it falls off

 

Look at the date of the first post in this thread.

 

the old posts come up when you search. The JITS on this old post was the best directions I found. Trying to pay it forward.

 

Thanks! I'm going to have to do this job soon I think so scouring the forums for info.

 

Is this JTIS procedure also good for my 1997 XK8???

Ken

 

Did I give you the right reference?
I need to do the complete R&R
Ken

 

Hi Ken,

You can download the Workshop Manual for your car at the link below. However, the 1999 Second Edition has a more detailed and complete procedure for replacing the power steering pump beginning on pdf page 709, so download both manuals for your library:

Jaguar X100 Workshop Manual 1997

Jaguar X100 Workshop Manual 1999

Replacing the pump isn't difficult, but the working position is awkward and getting the high pressure line disconnected and reconnected is fiddly. One way to approach it is to just loosen the high pressure hose fitting while the pump is still mounted, then remove the pump mounting bolts. This will give you some wiggle room for better access to unthread the high-pressure fitting and to access the low-pressure hose clamp.

Also, be careful with your oil dipstick tube once you disconnect its bracket. It's easy to bend, and if you move it too much, you may disturb the O-ring seal at the lower end of the tube which may then leak. Or better, plan on replacing the O-ring.

It's also a good idea to replace the low-pressure hose, since it tends to harden over time and lose its ability to seal at the reservoir and pump ends. In fact, before you commit to replacing the pump, clean the fluid off the low pressure hose and pump and drive the car for a day, then check to be sure the fluid leak is not actually from one or both ends of the low-pressure hose.

Cheers,

Don