Jaguar Advice
I own a 1999 XK8 with 70K convertible and I love it. I also have a 1990 XJS V12 Convertible and love it too. I am thinking about an upgade for the XK8. I want a low milage red if possible XKR 8. What years would be the best deals given some of the problems like tensioners and convertible top hydraulic line problems etc etc?
Popular Reply
Aug 1, 2019, 10:09 PM
I own a 1999 XK8 with 70K convertible and I love it. I also have a 1990 XJS V12 Convertible and love it too. I am thinking about an upgade for the XK8. I want a low milage red if possible XKR 8. What years would be the best deals given some of the problems like tensioners and convertible top hydraulic line problems etc etc?
The least problematic years where most stuff is sorted are 2003 - 2006. However, if you see an earlier XKR with the 5-speed Mercedes transmission, you should consider it too as that is a very solid gearbox. The cars most likely to be troublesome are 1997-2002-ish.
Make sure you get one with a big fat binder of its service history. Low miles is not always better. You'll find that a garage queen needs new tires, bushes, shock mounts, cooling system hoses, thermostat, and even valve cover gaskets. All those rubber components dry rot with age, not mileage.
A breakdown of common issues:
- Timing Chain tensioners on the 4.0L models. Both XK8 and XKR are affected. These have plastic secondary timing chain tensioners and primary guides. The primary guides give ample warning with rattling and chatter when they're about to fail, but the secondary tensioners will not be so kind. Those could turn your engine into a paperweight at any given moment without warning regardless of the mileage of the car. It is a must that these be upgrade to the 3rd gen metal body tensioners. There are many threads discussing how to do this, including the DIY friendly Zip-tie method. If you buy a 4.0L car and do not have concrete evidence that this was carried out, pull the valve covers and check.
- Nikasil liners, are, in my opinion, a problem of the past. Any engine that has them that has survived thus far should be fine. The problem was that on countries that had sub-par petrol that contained sulphur, the sulphur would react to with the Nikasil and destroy it. It's been nearly two decades since the USA banned sulphur from their fuels, and I believe this was never a problem in Europe.
- Suspension bushes: all years if it has not been tended by the PO, they're probably dry rotted and crap by now. Polyurethane upgrades are available from powerflex.
- Shock mounts go flat with age. Welsh sells a urethane upgrade that is more durable than the OE design. All years are affected.
- Octopus and Valley hoses are the big items from the cooling system. All years are affected. Replace them, and at the same time replace everything in the cooling system, including the expansion tank. The tank eventually develops a hairline crack that leaks but doesn't show up in a pressure test. Sometimes the coolant cap fails to pressurize the system and causes a mysterious leak. Get a new one for less than $10.
- The engine is made of aluminum, it will not tolerate overheating. The coolant temperature gauge is a dummy (oil pressure gauge as well if fitted). The JagWrangler sells a system called RealGauge that addresses this problem. An indispensable upgrade.
- XK8s with the 4.0 engine (97' - 02') have a plastic thermostat tower. An aluminum upgrade is available.
- Most cars of any years have water pumps with plastic impellers. These fail approaching 100k miles, I think. There is a water pump with a metal impeller available, but I'm not sure who sells it or what brand it is.
- 97-2002 4.0L XK8s have a ZF 5HP transmission that commonly undergoes A-drum failure. If I recall correctly, a Trans-go valve solves that issue. The Mercedes gearbox on the 4.0 XKRs do not have that problem.
- On the 4.0L XKR people upgrade to blue top solenoids on the transmission to speed up the gearbox's shifting. Many praise this.
- On the 4.2L XK8 and XKR, the transmission is a ZF 6HP26 transmission, it is also a stout transmission, but to get the longest life out of it, the mechatronic connector sleeve and the valve body seals need to be replaced as these do develop leaks. As you know, low lube = a blown tranny.
- On all models and years, Jaguar says the transmission is sealed for life. This is BS. Get a fluid and filter change for peace of mind, no matter what transmission you have. The same applies to the Eaton M110 supercharger on the XKRs. Do change the fluid.
- On all model years, the convertibles will eventually bless you with a green shower that rains down from the roof console. This can be prevented by servicing the latch mechanism, changing the hoses and hydraulic fluid. Make sure the pumps are in good working order as well. I understand that better hoses do exist, as well as a pressure relief valve that can be installed to lessen the chances of this happening.
- If you live in the rust belt, or the UK, inspect for rust on the rocker panels, the floorboards, and wheel arches.
- If the Jag presents you with many random and unrelated warning lights and messages, it probably needs a new battery. Likewise, if the windows go down when you open the door, but not back up when you close it, that is also a sign of low voltage. Nifty feature.
I hope I'm not forgetting anything, but I think that's most of the important stuff.
I'm sure you already know from your experience in the XJS forum, but I think it should be stated. This forum is very active and contains lots of knowledgeable folks who are very helpful. It is highly likely that someone here will have the solution to your problem. It will be the single greatest tool in your toolbox.
Last edited by giandanielxk8; Aug 1, 2019 at 10:15 PM.
I own a 1999 XK8 with 70K convertible and I love it. I also have a 1990 XJS V12 Convertible and love it too. I am thinking about an upgade for the XK8. I want a low milage red if possible XKR 8. What years would be the best deals given some of the problems like tensioners and convertible top hydraulic line problems etc etc?
The least problematic years where most stuff is sorted are 2003 - 2006. However, if you see an earlier XKR with the 5-speed Mercedes transmission, you should consider it too as that is a very solid gearbox. The cars most likely to be troublesome are 1997-2002-ish.
Make sure you get one with a big fat binder of its service history. Low miles is not always better. You'll find that a garage queen needs new tires, bushes, shock mounts, cooling system hoses, thermostat, and even valve cover gaskets. All those rubber components dry rot with age, not mileage.
A breakdown of common issues:
- Timing Chain tensioners on the 4.0L models. Both XK8 and XKR are affected. These have plastic secondary timing chain tensioners and primary guides. The primary guides give ample warning with rattling and chatter when they're about to fail, but the secondary tensioners will not be so kind. Those could turn your engine into a paperweight at any given moment without warning regardless of the mileage of the car. It is a must that these be upgrade to the 3rd gen metal body tensioners. There are many threads discussing how to do this, including the DIY friendly Zip-tie method. If you buy a 4.0L car and do not have concrete evidence that this was carried out, pull the valve covers and check.
- Nikasil liners, are, in my opinion, a problem of the past. Any engine that has them that has survived thus far should be fine. The problem was that on countries that had sub-par petrol that contained sulphur, the sulphur would react to with the Nikasil and destroy it. It's been nearly two decades since the USA banned sulphur from their fuels, and I believe this was never a problem in Europe.
- Suspension bushes: all years if it has not been tended by the PO, they're probably dry rotted and crap by now. Polyurethane upgrades are available from powerflex.
- Shock mounts go flat with age. Welsh sells a urethane upgrade that is more durable than the OE design. All years are affected.
- Octopus and Valley hoses are the big items from the cooling system. All years are affected. Replace them, and at the same time replace everything in the cooling system, including the expansion tank. The tank eventually develops a hairline crack that leaks but doesn't show up in a pressure test. Sometimes the coolant cap fails to pressurize the system and causes a mysterious leak. Get a new one for less than $10.
- The engine is made of aluminum, it will not tolerate overheating. The coolant temperature gauge is a dummy (oil pressure gauge as well if fitted). The JagWrangler sells a system called RealGauge that addresses this problem. An indispensable upgrade.
- XK8s with the 4.0 engine (97' - 02') have a plastic thermostat tower. An aluminum upgrade is available.
- Most cars of any years have water pumps with plastic impellers. These fail approaching 100k miles, I think. There is a water pump with a metal impeller available, but I'm not sure who sells it or what brand it is.
- 97-2002 4.0L XK8s have a ZF 5HP transmission that commonly undergoes A-drum failure. If I recall correctly, a Trans-go valve solves that issue. The Mercedes gearbox on the 4.0 XKRs do not have that problem.
- On the 4.0L XKR people upgrade to blue top solenoids on the transmission to speed up the gearbox's shifting. Many praise this.
- On the 4.2L XK8 and XKR, the transmission is a ZF 6HP26 transmission, it is also a stout transmission, but to get the longest life out of it, the mechatronic connector sleeve and the valve body seals need to be replaced as these do develop leaks. As you know, low lube = a blown tranny.
- On all models and years, Jaguar says the transmission is sealed for life. This is BS. Get a fluid and filter change for peace of mind, no matter what transmission you have. The same applies to the Eaton M110 supercharger on the XKRs. Do change the fluid.
- On all model years, the convertibles will eventually bless you with a green shower that rains down from the roof console. This can be prevented by servicing the latch mechanism, changing the hoses and hydraulic fluid. Make sure the pumps are in good working order as well. I understand that better hoses do exist, as well as a pressure relief valve that can be installed to lessen the chances of this happening.
- If you live in the rust belt, or the UK, inspect for rust on the rocker panels, the floorboards, and wheel arches.
- If the Jag presents you with many random and unrelated warning lights and messages, it probably needs a new battery. Likewise, if the windows go down when you open the door, but not back up when you close it, that is also a sign of low voltage. Nifty feature.
I hope I'm not forgetting anything, but I think that's most of the important stuff.
I'm sure you already know from your experience in the XJS forum, but I think it should be stated. This forum is very active and contains lots of knowledgeable folks who are very helpful. It is highly likely that someone here will have the solution to your problem. It will be the single greatest tool in your toolbox.
Last edited by giandanielxk8; Aug 1, 2019 at 10:15 PM.
Thank you. I knew most of those but not all. Mine has had the tensioners changed and the hydraulic lines replaced as well. He must have gotten the green shower before me. I see you had an R but sold it any particular reason?
No, I still have the R, I sold the 8. Like you, I wanted an upgrade.
+1 to giandaniel’s sage and comprehensive advice.
If you are looking for a reliable, non-money pit car go for the latest Gen3 model MY 2003+ XKR.
The service history is most important, and low mileage cars aren’t always better. Make sure the car has been looked after by a careful knowledgeable owner regardless of what the seller/records says.
For example IMHO it’s better if the previous owner is a home DIY “wrencher” with a decent garage, than someone who only took the car grocery shopping.
A car ages better when it is driven and enjoyed, rather than just standing out on a driveway.
If you are looking for a reliable, non-money pit car go for the latest Gen3 model MY 2003+ XKR.
The service history is most important, and low mileage cars aren’t always better. Make sure the car has been looked after by a careful knowledgeable owner regardless of what the seller/records says.
For example IMHO it’s better if the previous owner is a home DIY “wrencher” with a decent garage, than someone who only took the car grocery shopping.
A car ages better when it is driven and enjoyed, rather than just standing out on a driveway.
In terms of reliability there isn't much difference between XKR model years. The XKR never had the unreliable 5 speed ZF gearbox that let down the 4.0 XK8. Once the tensioners have been changed, the 1999 on 4.0 XKR then has the exact same weakspots as all the later model years - the roof hydraulics were never improved and the all the cars rust in exactly the same places.
In other words find the best condition car, in the colour combination you like, that is within your budget - but don't go thinking that any 13-20 year old car isn't going to need work.
In other words find the best condition car, in the colour combination you like, that is within your budget - but don't go thinking that any 13-20 year old car isn't going to need work.
I've owned 6 Jags two of them V12's over the years I'm under no illusion about jag repairs trust me.
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good thread, Hi all
rep- +2 giandaniel’ great write up, thank you -
as (Under)stated lol solid advice as well... it almost should be in bold print
"On all models and years, Jaguar says the transmission is sealed for life. This is BS. Get a fluid and filter change for peace of mind, no matter what transmission you have. The same applies to the Eaton M110 supercharger on the XKRs. Do change the fluid.
rep- +2 giandaniel’ great write up, thank you -
as (Under)stated lol solid advice as well... it almost should be in bold print
"On all models and years, Jaguar says the transmission is sealed for life. This is BS. Get a fluid and filter change for peace of mind, no matter what transmission you have. The same applies to the Eaton M110 supercharger on the XKRs. Do change the fluid.
Skymark LATE '01 and up are where its at- IMO but dont be a fool like me and look past a lack of service history otherwise like my dumb *** you will be racking up hours and dollars fixing it before you even get a chance to enjoy it.. or maybe your a nut like tmyself and actully enjoy working on their car
Just a voice of past bad experience, i had wound up selling my 09 xf portfolio that suffered from bad shifts ... most likely caused by previous owners heavy foot but i chose selling and not flushing it because i was told they couldn't service it and I needed a new one, this was bull but i was not sure then did not want to deal with the repairs regardless.... so i sent it to the pits of cragslist and dumped it with it posted as "Needs Tranny" i seen it driving local a few weeks later and the guy said he flushed it and put in a new filter... FML stinking thing ran great... my loss,,, that was then and this is now and now armed with information i would know better but to late i missed that train lol ignorance is not always bliss so without starting a pissing contest JagV8, I need to say from my experience jaguar actually does state there tyranny's are 'for life.... sealed' though we know its a line of indy bs-
this is from google search....
25 Answers. There is no transmission fluid dipstick as those transmissions are sealed for life. We do not service them and will only check or take a fluid sample when there is a problem. ... Remove the 8mm allen fill plug on the passenger side rear of the trans case and once fluid flow out it is full.
this is from google search....
25 Answers. There is no transmission fluid dipstick as those transmissions are sealed for life. We do not service them and will only check or take a fluid sample when there is a problem. ... Remove the 8mm allen fill plug on the passenger side rear of the trans case and once fluid flow out it is full.
You've overlooked that dealers are not part of Jaguar and commonly do not have much if any knowledge of auto transmissions.
If instead you refer to what Jaguar say (and have said for many years), it it that these transmissions need servicing.
By all means blame the lousy dealers. That said, Jaguar REALLY ought to kick some of their dealers into the facts stated on their own web site.
Either DIY service the trans or go to a competent trans shop!
If instead you refer to what Jaguar say (and have said for many years), it it that these transmissions need servicing.
By all means blame the lousy dealers. That said, Jaguar REALLY ought to kick some of their dealers into the facts stated on their own web site.
Either DIY service the trans or go to a competent trans shop!
Last edited by JagV8; Mar 2, 2020 at 06:56 AM.
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