You need to address this issue now. Both the long bolt you refer to and the bushings can be worn. If the tops are gone, the bottoms will be suspect. Also check ball joints upper and lower, shock bushing lower, and sway bar bushings. Jags are hard on rubber parts.

If you are doing the work, be advised there are some quarter sized washers on the upper long bolt before and after the bushings. They are strategically spaced in there. They set the caster of the wheel. If you pull the bolt out... be very careful to note the installation of these spacers. I am not talking about the two large silver end washers. These are thin.

Gordo

 

What is a K frame? Do you mean the control arms?

 

He's talking about the front suspension crossmember.

Dave, I've seen that on a few XJ40's, which are a steel fabricated crossmember, but it was never a case where it was bad enough to require repair.

You're going about it the right way for sure, I think an alloy casting like that can crack once it is getting hammered as a result of the play. The example I would cite for this is cracked alloy rear hub carriers that gave up after the lower fulcrum bearings had failed, and the hammering of the suspension loads did the rest of the damage.

I think if I had that car in my shop, I would look into using a reamer to resize the hole with the crossmember in place. I'm thinking along the lines of a kigpin reamer, like on the MG's. Then press in some bushings, maybe a connecting rod wrist pin bushing from something would be an appropriate size to use. Think that might work?

 

Andy, I think you just like to say reamer alot.

 

Busted.

 

That looks sweet, but having to pull the crossmember makes it a pig of a job. It seems like there should be an adequate fix with it in the car, but your result is perfect.

 

Dave, what exact bushing did you end up using, and what size reamer? I am a do it yourselfer, so any specifics appreciated. I like your idea better than TIG welding it and reboring. I would appreciate help locating the correct bushing.

 

JagTechOhio, you mention a steel cross member in the newer XK8s, or at least some. I am wondering whether I could "upgrade" mine from aluminum/magnesium to steel, assuming a newer one would fit. The line boring and bushing idea seems adequate, but I am wondering whether the steel upgrade is also an option that would work. Thanks.