My car began making the noise like in this video(not mine but the same noise) it started as a rattle at about 3000 rpm but within the 8 miles it took to get back home developed in this at idle. Performance wise I obviously didn't push it but power seems normal and it idles and runs smoothly... Except the noise. Pulled the accessory belt and the noise is still there. Pulled the valve covers and the cam chains and tensioners look fine. My next step is the timing inspection but I am out of town this week. Do you think I should go ahead order the parts. It's a 2000 with the second generation vvt. Only 55k miles it can't be a rod can it? If so, How plug and play have the ls1 kits become would be my next train of thought. http://youtu.be/LUAQ77hS3yQ

 

To me it sounds like a rod knock. I bought a 99 xj8 with that knocking noise. First thought it might be a primary tensioner and the chain was making the noise. I checked the chains and all was good. Raised the car and took the pan off. It was hard to see because of the structural sump and windage tray but I was able to touch a couple of the rods and one of the had a lot of play. That is what was causing the knock. That motor is toast. I plan on replacing it in the near future.

If I were you I wouldn't buy any parts until you diagnose the problem. I would remove the pan and look for any material in the pan. You may be able to see metal in the oil. If it is a rod you would be better of to find another motor than trying to repair yours
Good luck

 

Yuck, what is it with the connecting and these cars. I thought the jag motors were pretty bulletproof unless they were nickasil. My stepfather has a Lincoln ls with 240k on it. Thanks for the advice I'll wait till I pull the front off the motor before ordering anything. Fingers crossed.

 

Not that it's part of the discussion, but nilasil is very reliable now that the high sulfur fuels are a thing of the past. Unless your block has been replaced it's probably nikasil.

There have not been many reports of rod failure considering the number of engines still on the road. Unfortunately, I agree with BobRoy in your case. A lower tensioner or guide failure is more likely to result in a rattle or slap.

 

So I double checked the oil and it was down 3.5 quarts. I added oil and it no longer knocks at idle but does so when I rev it up. Would oil quiet a rod knock? Sounds like the noise is coming from the passenger side vvt. the engine doesn't run as smoothly at idle any longer.

 

The engine has a knock - that's metal to metal contact either due to excessive clearance or lack of a film of oil to cushion contact between moving parts.

Rod failure is rarely reported on the forum and some members already have their V8's at or over the 200k miles. Where rod wear has occurred, it can often be attributed to slow build up of oil pressure on startup over a lengthy period by using aftermarket filters without a non-return valve which can cause excessive bearing wear.

I would NOT be doing too much experimenting starting / revving until the cause is determined or you could find out suddenly and in the worst possible way if it lets go.

The only way to find the exact cause is by partial dismantling.

Graham

 

Pulled the front cover, Tensioners and guides look fine. I pulled the VVT on the passenger side and blew into the screen it seemed to give some resistance but then let way to the airflow like it was slightly clogged. The other side didn't offer any resistance at all. Would the VVT knock like that if it were starved?

so a couple of flake of metal in the screen on that side as well I guess I'll drop the pan tomorrow. let me know what you think:




passenger, knocking side




Drivers

 

:icon_flame throw:: icon_toliet:

Shavings in the pan

 

Sorry to hear that. See if you can get anything through the windage tray and try to see if there is any play in any of the rods. Mine had a bad rod on the first rod so it was a little easier to get at.

You posted it was 3.5 quarts low on oil. It was starved for oil and proably lost a rod bearing.

I'm not up on the operation of the VVT but it could be the problem, but I doubt it.

My guess that you have a major rebuild on you hands or replacement. You mentioned earlier going the ls1 kit. I don't know how much the conversion is but I'm sure it will be very expensive.

Other choices are to find a replacement motor or sell it and find another car.

 

Yeah it's not my daily driver so I can tinker an mull things over. You can supposedly get to the rod bearings by dropping the subframe. I'll go at it from there since it is on the four post already. If the crank isn't obliterated maybe I can get out of it fairly reasonably, 3 to 4 k for a short block replacement has me thinking the ls1 or 2 option may eventually come into play. Depends on the cost of a kit. But a 6 speed 400 horse xk8 would be a hoot.

If I sell it I doubt I could get much more than 2 grand. And I just put HR springs and spacers on it to make it lower and wider, looks awesome. Even setting on the lift with the hood off.

 

If I were in your situation and I wanted to keep the car I would keep checking Craigslist in your area or even in LA. Look for a car that has been in an accident or has other problems. Look for a xk8 or xj8 from 99 to 03. I believe I am correct on the years to replace a 2000, if not I hope someone will correct me. If your patient you can find one for $1,000 or less. Especially the xj8s.
You can take the motor out of it and sell the rest of the car for parts or whole. I have a 99 motor but I need it for one of my cars. I also have a 97 and a 98 spare engines but it takes quite a lot to adapt them to a 99 or newer. I think your best bet is to find one on Craigslist. You'll just have to be patient and one will show up.

 

An XK8 with a bad engine is worth around $500,(That is the highest I was offered in 3 months time) unless you are going to go through the effort to scrap it. That was the reason for putting the used engine in mine a couple of weeks ago. Jaguar people tend to prefer their cars with a Jaguar engine in them, and the money stays in the bank......Just a suggestion......Mike

 

Good points in the xj8's. I'll pull the windage tray this weekend and see how bad the carnage is to the crank. Might get lucky, the shavings in the pan were fairly small and there wasn't a ton of them so there is a glimmer of hope.

 

Just in case ...

This breaker looks to be a good source for used parts. They show a long block currently.

http://stores.ebay.com/Euroholics-Au...ub=10607392010


Good luck.

 

Rod bearing toast, cylinder 1. Journal scored. Engine dropped, officially mulling.

 

You've got good taste in bike's my lad. Good luck on the rebuild.


Cheers:

 

Thanks chuck. I have this one in the other side of the garage


But back to less fortunate things...I'm seeing some threads on using a 4.2 short block and putting the intake and heads off the 4.0. I like the more robust features of the 4.2 and there is more likelihood to find a lower mileage motor anyone have any thoughts on that route?

 

I don't know if you took the heads off yet. Since you ran low on oil check them for any damage. Take the cam caps off and check their condition. You mentioned metal at the VVT you might of gotten metal elsewhere and damaged the heads. This way you can see if they can be used on another engine. I don't know anything about using a 4.2 block, maybe someone will chime in.
Good luck.

 

Picked up this motor today. 82k 2002 froom a total loss in California.


Now to clean it all up and put it all back.

I traded the heads off the toasted motor and 1700. Seemed like a fair deal. With all the accessories even the ecu and harness, not that I needed it. He did keep the throttle body.

 

Well after some rookie mistakes namely not seating the torque converter and busting the ears off the trans pump and then getting permatex in the ab clutch drum after rebuilding the pump, the car is back together. I tidied up the last of the leaks, I hope just moments ago. I learned a lot, oddly these cars are fairly easy to pull apart. 1600 for the engine 200 in trans seals. 100 for the pump. And about 500 in tools that I didn't already have. Dual stage Trans jack, shop crane, engine stand. I went with pentosin 1 lv for the fluid by the way. $40 for 5 quarts (i used about 13). Good of a summer project as any I suppose.