2000 S-Type will not start
#1
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mikechinea (04-03-2016)
#3
Welcome to the forum mikechinea,
I've moved your question from General Tech Help to S-type forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.
Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
I've moved your question from General Tech Help to S-type forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.
Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
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Grant Francis (03-31-2016),
mikechinea (03-31-2016)
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mikechinea (03-31-2016)
#5
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mikechinea (04-01-2016)
#6
I don't know about the states, but the fuel goes off very fast here in England. I believe most US fuels have 10% ethanol added same as the EU.
Ethanol pulls in moisture to the fuel if kept for a long time.
There has been a few motoring news articles about the problems with E10 fuel in vehicles and also about its compatability with certain cars.
I would recommend to change the fuel in the tank for fresh full fat stuff.
Ethanol pulls in moisture to the fuel if kept for a long time.
There has been a few motoring news articles about the problems with E10 fuel in vehicles and also about its compatability with certain cars.
I would recommend to change the fuel in the tank for fresh full fat stuff.
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mikechinea (04-01-2016)
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Is there fuel pressure at the Schrader valve?
Are there any DTCs stored in the system? If so, post them here.
Take a few moments to ensure all electrical connectors are correctly installed, such as the one to the throttle body. Also, inspect the wiring looms to the fuel injectors and coil packs for any damage.
Are there any DTCs stored in the system? If so, post them here.
Take a few moments to ensure all electrical connectors are correctly installed, such as the one to the throttle body. Also, inspect the wiring looms to the fuel injectors and coil packs for any damage.
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mikechinea (04-03-2016)
#10
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mikechinea (04-03-2016)
#11
Thank you all!! This is what I've found so far: Ignition OK, Voltage at fuel pump OK, No fuel pressure at Schraeder. My next step is to take out the fuel pump and test it.
May take a while though since I wore much younger man's clothes last time I work on any vehicle.
This may not be related but I found a 3.1 parasitic amp draw while troubleshooting.
May take a while though since I wore much younger man's clothes last time I work on any vehicle.
This may not be related but I found a 3.1 parasitic amp draw while troubleshooting.
#12
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mikechinea (04-22-2016)
#13
Thank you all!! This is what I've found so far: Ignition OK, Voltage at fuel pump OK, No fuel pressure at Schraeder. My next step is to take out the fuel pump and test it.
May take a while though since I wore much younger man's clothes last time I work on any vehicle.
This may not be related but I found a 3.1 parasitic amp draw while troubleshooting.
May take a while though since I wore much younger man's clothes last time I work on any vehicle.
This may not be related but I found a 3.1 parasitic amp draw while troubleshooting.
That amperage draw should be easy to isolate to a hot relay...
Last edited by abonano; 04-22-2016 at 11:53 PM.
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mikechinea (04-23-2016)
#14
Finally got around to fix the starting issue. With the help of my son we replaced the fuel pump and it runs like a champ. Even passed the California smog test.
On the parasitic drain: No luck. Battery and alternator checked by AAA, all good. Didn't run the car for 2 days, battery drained again. The drain now is 2.8 amps not the 3.1 as before. Will pull all fuses and relays, one by one as before, maybe I missed something.
On the parasitic drain: No luck. Battery and alternator checked by AAA, all good. Didn't run the car for 2 days, battery drained again. The drain now is 2.8 amps not the 3.1 as before. Will pull all fuses and relays, one by one as before, maybe I missed something.
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Grant Francis (04-17-2017)
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Hello Mike. Congrats on fixing fuel pump issue. Your drop to 2.8A drain means you are now ONLY some 100 times over the <30mA limit. Suggest you review our write-up "Quiescent Current Drain" which you will find in the Miscellaneous section of the "HOW TO . . . " Sticky at the head of this forum. It sets out all the "sleep" issues and gives a logical test sequence of which fuses to pull and when.
Cheers and best wishes,
Ken
Cheers and best wishes,
Ken
Last edited by cat_as_trophy; 04-16-2017 at 05:32 PM.
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