Hi I have a 00 xk8 my hose to the roof latch just burst at the fitting at the pump. I talked to a hydraulic hose shop and they said they could make up some teflon / stainless steel hose for me . I read on jag repair that the roof latch hoses are 20ft long each. what i am looking for is how long are the hoses to the ram pistons (hydraulic roof cylinders) so i can go ahead and replace all at 1 time.

 

Have you seen Gus's page on the improved latch hose? JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

He spent months reserching this. You will need the correct fittings and adapters, and there are some fairly sharp bends and tight quarters in the system. Does your shop have all this information?

If you are determined to do this, I would recommend using Gus's supplier, and chances are you will need to remove the lift cylinder hoses for them to evaluate the length and fittings.

The top latch hoses are the one that fail most often. If you replaced the others with OEM, you in all likelihood wold get 10 year+ of service from them.

 

Thanks I have discussed this with him. the threads on the elbows that screw into to the pump are 1/8 pipe thread i have already checked and confirmed. I can get the hose made for the latches less than 150 dollars and thats the exact hose that gus has used. I was just curious if any one had ever measured the ones that went to the pistons. the tight bends i have already discussed this and i have think if i used something like a splint to prevent the kinks it will work fine.

 

I work with a lot of construction equipment working on them and also transporting them maybe they are giving me a discount since i work for a equipment rental company so we have lots of hydraulic repairs and needing hoses all of the time from customers tearing up the machines

 

Your best bet might just be to remove the old hoses. A wrong measurement would definitely ruin your day.

 

oh yeah this is moonpetal38 husband (she wanted me to tell you that)

 

yeah your right i will see how this goes thanks for everything.

 

If you get this done it would be a great favor to the forum members if you can document it for us.

 

ok we will i have moonpetal38 recruited she is excited !!!!!!!!!!!!

 

That is great!

Between these hoses and the new cylinder rebuild service with superior seal material we will have the means to make a super-reliable convertible top!

 

Yes, please record the deatails, maybe Moonpetal can do the pics while you do the grunting? (Mmm, not sure if that came out right)

 

This is moonpetal...you guys are great. I hope all this fixes my top once and for all. It hurts not to be able to have it down. Thanks for all your advice. (Although...I think I am going to set hubby up with his own user name). lol

 

Think about putting a relief valve in at the same time.
There's lots of info on this forum but a good hydraulic shop should be able to provide the bits for about $80.
If you don't want to take the pump to the shop look at this
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...mp-plug-70317/
If my hoses blow I'd be very tempted to run steel lines under the chassis coming up in the engine compartment and be done with it. 20' of hydraulic hose is an amateur's solution and Jaguar don't charge amateur prices!

 

[edit] The following turned out not to be an issue, please see post #15 below.

This is only a half-baked notion and may be wrong, but it just dawned on me that there might be an electrical issue here. The polarity of the voltage to the pump gets reversed at various points in the raise/lower top cycle. If the pump body is not electrically isolated from the motor inside it, then we can't let the body make electrical contact to ground. With non-metalic hoses, no problem; with metallic ones, if not covered with insulation, such ground contact would occur.

A measurement to see if the two wires leading to the pump motor are both isolated from the pump body will clear this up. It's now on the list, but if somebody else gets there first, that would be great.

 

Several people are using the metal braided latch hose discussed on jagrepair.com with no ill effect.

 

Good thought, I've just put all the trim back!
I'm sure they will be floating but I'd want a flexible pigtail on the pipe end anyway - it would be imposssible to install the pump with all metal pipes.
Looking about it seems that Cunifer (or Kunifer) cupro-nickel brake lines have plenty of burst strength and can easily be hand dressed.

 

[edit] Yes, I see. Turns out it's a non-issue. I'll edit my post above.

 

I wouldn't expect the crimp ferrule to cut through to the braid.
I think it would be chance if the cut end of the hose contacted the crimp fitting.
When we need anti-static hydraulic pipes (metal braid) the outer sleeve is made from conducting material.

 

I see that you can get the hose for $150.00, is that for one or two hoses? The hose sold by Colliflower is a set of two with all the fittings required. When installing any of the hoses you need to avoid bending them in a way that will pinch or crease the hose it will shorten the life of the hose. As for the install of a braided hose you need to use caution and avoid direct contact with wiring. You question about the pump motor it is bidirectional. Just as a side note Top Hydraulics is looking into making replacement hoses.

 

Thats for 2 hoses and fittings. I will tear the car down on Saturday so we will keep you posted. But do think since we have replaced both hydraulic cylinders and soon to replace those lines, once i measure them saturday and replaced those latch lines that i would need a pressure valve. I have a resister in line on the pump.