Got 'stability control fail' message, with 'red light' and car went to 'limp mode'. car shop ran codes but nothing came up! Do I take it to the dealer which is 3 blocks away? When this happened I restarted the car 3 times,and it came back every time, after driving about 2 blocks. I'm about 20 miles from home, doubt if I could make it back....Gus suggested the battery may need replacing, tho it tested good at Pep Boys last week. Thinking about putting a new battery in,and trying to see if that works. If car goes into limp mode, should'nt there be a code that comes up? If no codes, can the car be driven 20 miles in 'limp mode'? Is the dealer the only ones who could figure this out ? Would cleaning the wheel sensors do this any good? Sorry for all the questions!!.

 

Did you check all the power connections as suggested? Not all shops can read all the codes on your car you may need to take it in and see what they find. What were you doing when it went into Limp Home Mode?

 

I will check connections tomorrow, when I pick it up. I was driving thru the city slowly when it started to happen. I will report back what happens tomorrow Thanks!

 

Picked car up today from auto shop, where I had broken down on Saturday. [He did a transmission fluid/filter change while the car was there] First I checked the battery connections....o.k. I then drove it a few blocks to the jag dealership. They wanted $120 to run the codes, so I decided to start home (20 miles), and see how far I could get with the idea of returning back there if the car went back into limp mode.....Surprise!....car made it back to my house with no problem. Now what? Just like my ragtop problem,this problem has gone away! Jags are great aren't they? If they have a problem, just let them sit a couple of days and they fix themselves!! HaHa. Any ideas from here? get codes read from dealer?,put in new battery?, clean wheel sensors? or all the above? Thanks for listening!! Mick

 

I want to comment about the $120 charge just to read the codes. That is #$%^& terrible. I don't think any shop worth a d..n should charge you anything just to read codes. I'm sorry, but I think dealers and Jaguar in general shoot themselves in the foot trying to charge such high prices and that includes the parts prices. This is what causes cars that run out of warranty to depreciate so much which impacts new car sales. But, then again that allows us to afford them.

EZDriver

 

The limp mode can be caused by a tranny issue, its possible that the fluid change solved the problem. If the tranny detected low oil pressure, it will trigger limp mode. I'm usually not that lucky but you may be.

 

I have a few questions. Do you know if your TB has been checked for the Service Action 514s You can call Jaguar for that information if you do not have it you will need your vin#. Were the TB plugs replaced? Did you have your cruise control on? Did you use your brake when it went into FailSafe?

http://jagrepair.com/images/TSB/Jagu...ion%20S514.pdf

http://jagrepair.com/ThrottleBodyPlugs.htm

Your problem has not gone away it has not shown its face again yet. With no codes and no direction many would say let it go until it does it again, I say make a few checks first. Now that you have it home you should try and do a little checking and cleaning of electrical connections from the battery to the fuse boxes under the hood. If you elect to do this first disconnect the battery you do not want to short the system to ground.

We had several problems related to corroded power and ground connection, poor connections in the fuse boxes under the hood. You can resolve this by removing the battery terminal and work your way to the engine cleaning the grounding and power lead connections. I use CRC contact cleaner and I apply CRC Di-Electric paste moderately. Many are not in favor of the paste but I use it all the time so the choice is yours. As for the fuse boxes I would pull one fuse, one relay at a time clean the contacts and reinstall and see what takes place. It is an easy process it just takes a little time.

Many members have run into situations like this and many will provide you additional information and direction. I hope this helps!

 

My 99 does the same thing once in awhile. I unplug and replug the 4 wire connector at the throttle body and it's usually good for another month or two. I need to get the the part numbers for the gold plated connectors that replace the tin plated connectors in that harness and fix it for good. Your problem may be the same.

 

OLDMOTS; Hope you'r right about the tranny fluid change.......ELKRIVER; I'm gonna replace the tin plugs at the T.B........GUS; Ser. Act. 514s does not apply to my car. By the way, in reading the 514s, if the T.B. was replaced with a new one, it should not be cleaned. (molykote coated)..Wonder if mine and others, have same coating?.... I was not in cruise control at time of event and don't recall if brakes were applied or not, tho I was in city traffic. I will be doing all that you suggest as soon as the weather clears, also will clean wheel sensors, that I've been putting off.......Note; Those replaced T.B.'s have on them this code; JJM** 30 99 (from above Ser Act 514s) I'll keep in touch!..Thanks

 

It sounds like you have a plan. By the way that Service Action has expired and is no longer available. As for cleaning the TB with the Moiykote Coating I am not sure how to clean it properly. I will make a few calls and see what is recommended.

 

elkriver, Gus......

Here's bulletins with the info you are lookin' for. 303-58 has the gold terminal part number and 310-06 has acceptable cleaners for the molybdenum treated throttle bodies.

 

Thanks Steve,

I had 303-58 but did not have 310-06. I will add it to my inventory and make it available.

 

Wife thrown from horse, been doing husbandly duties. She's ok now but had fractured arm,...I'm back to car problem. Car's gone 100 miles without reoccurence (did tranny fld. change fix it?) Yesterday I started the problem solving, by cleaning the wheel sensors. Today I begin the inspection and CRC cleaning, from battery to fuses/relays under hood. Question! Any fuses/relays that should not be pulled out (like air bag fuses/relays?). ......Next week comes the replacement of TB plugs. ...Side note" Want to buy cheap fuse/relay tester(bulb type) for future use. Some are for motor running, others for motors not running. Which is better?.....Oh and by the way, where to get TB plugs, dealer or on line?...Thanks again....Mick

 

Gee, sorry about the little woman.......give her our best!

The bulletin in my post above has the part number for the throttle body connector terminals, I'd guess they can only be had from a dealer.

A test light for checking fuses can be had at just about any auto parts store, just be sure to use it for fuse checking only and not for other diagnostic tasks. Don't worry about pulling fuses, you won't cause any harm, just be aware some memories may be lost; windows, radio stations, clock for instance.

Good luck!

 

Good day

Sorry to hear about your wifes misfortune...

I had the restricted performance/stability traction fault. Actually changed the connector to the throttle body and made sure they were dry tight and clean. Error came back. Bought the Auto Enginuity scanner (refurbished one on ebay and a good investment ) and car showed no error codes. I guess when you stop and start the car it clears the code if there is no fault showing. So I hooked it up and drove around and when the car went into fault it showed the P0121. Sometimes I could drive for a couple of days and nothing would show. So after searching the forum I disconnected all the connectors from the ecm module and cleaned. There is a ground connector to the body of the car right next to it and this I could actually turn by hand !!!!! I cleaned and tightened and its been at least a month or more now and no more faults.
I am not saying its fixed ( the car might hear me !!!! ) but it appears that way

Anyway I hope this can be of some help

Howard

 

Problem gone from last October. No abs/traction warning lights since then, after I cleaned wheel sensors, cleaned fuses, and tranny fluid was changed. Thanks to all who had suggestions. The only thing I didn't do, was replace the tin terminals of the throttle body, to gold terminals. I felt a little intimadated by this job and decided to tackle it in the spring. Any thoughts about the difficulty of this adventure? ... mick