MOT Failure - excessive corrosion

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Nov 30, 2017 | 03:15 AM
  #61  
how do you edit these posts once you have posted?
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Nov 30, 2017 | 03:40 AM
  #62  
You need to probably do this








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Nov 30, 2017 | 05:22 AM
  #63  
Great photos. Really helps, these are the chassis 'legs' though aren't they?
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Nov 30, 2017 | 05:27 AM
  #64  
Looks like you have found your answer Simon. Are these the bits you want fixing? How much do you think it will cost? Got to confess until recently, yesterday, I did not even know the chassis had 'legs'. Let us know how you get on wont you? Thanks.
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Nov 30, 2017 | 05:43 AM
  #65  
I was beaten to it.

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Nov 30, 2017 | 06:09 AM
  #66  
Quote: Great photos. Really helps, these are the chassis 'legs' though aren't they?
Yeah, it is what most describe them as..... It is possible with a mirror and a light to look behind the subframe and see this area...
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Nov 30, 2017 | 07:41 AM
  #67  
Could also be the reinforcing panel right at the front of the bulkhead, where it joins the floor. Passenger side had gone on mine.
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Nov 30, 2017 | 07:45 PM
  #68  
1978 XJS no floor all rust, replaced the complete under body of car.

pic of body upside down,, makes fitting and welding much easier!

MOT Failure - excessive corrosion-vlcsnap-2017-11-27-11h45m00s888.png   MOT Failure - excessive corrosion-vlcsnap-2017-11-27-11h52m01s676.png   MOT Failure - excessive corrosion-vlcsnap-2017-11-27-11h51m25s571.png  

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Dec 1, 2017 | 03:34 AM
  #69  
Quote: Could also be the reinforcing panel right at the front of the bulkhead, where it joins the floor. Passenger side had gone on mine.
From what I can gather that fits the description my garage gave to me. Right in front of the bulk head then going down to the chassis. Can it still be repaired by "just" removing the subframe or is it more involved than that?
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Dec 1, 2017 | 04:44 PM
  #70  
question;why do UK cars rust so much??

and where do you think the ones that have been repaired according to the pix be in 25yrs?

pic of mine done 23yrs ago!

and i have just finished thruo checking for RUST , none at all !

MOT Failure - excessive corrosion-dscn8692.jpg  

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Dec 1, 2017 | 04:59 PM
  #71  
SALT plus damp climate.
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Dec 1, 2017 | 07:49 PM
  #72  
now something a heard back about 25yrs ago.

some people in power UK , said to add some powdered ACID to the salt, it will melt the ice faster!

also called Rapid recycle program.
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Dec 1, 2017 | 08:41 PM
  #73  
That definitely would be rapid!
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Dec 2, 2017 | 03:54 AM
  #74  
Quote: SALT plus damp climate.
Yes. Worse, it's rarely cold enough to slow the process much. (We don't get much below 0C (32F) so the rusting goes on and on.)
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Dec 4, 2017 | 01:17 AM
  #75  
Quote: I was beaten to it.

That looks awful. Did this cause the 'clunk' whilst turning you were talking about then? Was it a clunk or a crunching metal on metal sound?
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Dec 4, 2017 | 03:49 AM
  #76  
Quote: That looks awful. Did this cause the 'clunk' whilst turning you were talking about then? Was it a clunk or a crunching metal on metal sound?
No, the clunk was a suspension bush, I just happened to find this when I took the subframe off.
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Feb 5, 2018 | 05:15 AM
  #77  
A very nice job, I am soo glad I don't live on that side of the Pond any more, I had forgotten how difficult it was to remove Bumpers and suspension parts etc. I was shocked to see those rust Pics. My 1999 XK8 with 80,000 miles looks like the day it was built underneath, I have been very spoiled living in Southern California for 35 years.
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Nov 1, 2023 | 03:02 PM
  #78  
Mine both side cost £1800 it was bad
Quote: Having now found the pictures I took of the underneath of my 2000 XK8 cab when I bought it, I would like to ask members why they think it failed and whether just removing the surface rust with a wire brush and some paint would suffice or whether sections needs cutting out and replacing,
I went all along the rusty areas jabbing away with a sharp screwdriver but couldn't find or create any holes, nor did it flex or sound soft.
MOT was done in August so I doubt the testing station would remember exactly what caught their eye and I don't want the expense of insuring it just to take it for another test.
Hopefully someone will recognise the rust areas and be able to give me some advice -






(Above) Bracket and chassis securing front of rear subframe, well rusty but no holes and sounds solid when struck









(Above) Sills and wheelarches rusty but again no holes and stabbing with a sharp screwdriver doesn't create any (floorpans have been patched at some point)

Is it likely to have failed because of the appearance of rust and as there are no holes could I just remove the rust, treat what remains and paint?

Mark

Rear suspension mounts both sides , bodged bought s type with 11 months mot on it took it for test failed guy at mot said it should have never passed last mot I contacted the mot station were it was tested , it was shut down by DVLA , just a petrol station now cost £1800 and a week to weld and sills as well !


, I love my s type full mot now no recalls
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