Multiple Issues, Winter wasn't kind
#1
Multiple Issues, Winter wasn't kind
Hi Guys,
Calling on the experts.
Few things happening as my daily driver turns spring project.
First issue resolved which was Thermostat, Upper/Lower Hoses and new drive belt. Already had the thermostat because I ordered one after hearing the high speed fan kick on after pulling in the garage when it was about 20 deg outside. Picked up new hoses because it's been about 100K since I last replaced then and a few days after hearing the fan, the lower hose popped off where it connects to the thermostat housing, mainly because I had a screw clamp on it and not the regular style and the cold weather hasn't helped.
Second: The ABS started acting up again but may be because of old battery. A few months back my windows would drop when you open the door and not come back up. After a few days everything was back to normal. I think it's been 5 years at least so I will change and see if it correct the ABS otherwise I'll have to check the solder joints in the ABS unit. Did a 7/8" hole over the location with a plug so not hard to fix.
It's been intermittent and mostly on now but every once in a while when I start the ABS light always comes on but it will either go out when I start driving or the stab/trac fault pops up. I've cleaned the wheel sensors, rears were gunked up but fronts were clean. Cables look fine and I checked them with a OHM meter to make sure they weren't shorted.
Third: Have a slow power steering fluid leak. Crawled under and it looks like the hose may be the culprit. Wiped everything off didn't see any dripping so I started her up and turned the wheel a few times. Crawled back under and it saw fluid running down from around the valve body but looks like it's coming from above the housing. I think the hose snakes back that way but hard to see. Saw the DIY about the steering rack that turned out to be a hose so have to drop it to confirm.
Spoke with JAG dealer about hoses and they said it's all one assembly, hoses and rack. I know that's not true because you can buy the hoses and rack separately online. Also asked them about the bolt size for the 4 mounting bolts and they said they didn't have any info on them. I think there a 10mm x 36mm but the head measured 13mm which is typical for and 8mm bolt. Thought it may be a special bolt so called Jaguar. Always like to have the bolts just in case.
Fourth and most annoying: Have a noise which sounds like it's coming from the rear. Sounds like creaking/rubbing at slow speed and chirping at higher so the sound is in relationship to speed. Most prominent when accelerating and seems to disappear when I left off the gas. However when I slow to a stop the sound comes back as the creaking/rubbing. Very consistent sound no matter whether I turn left or right and even or serpentine.
Thought/hoped it might just be brakes but not the case. Put new brakes on as the old ones only had about 1/16" of pad left, sound remains. Check the bearings with a wiggle test but they seem solid. Same with the half shafts, no play that I can find. Greased the half shafts while I was down there and no change.
Any thoughts on the best way to figure this one out?
I know sound travels under a car but I'm leaning toward the differential or drive shaft universal. Right track?
I was thinking of doing a ferris beuller and ut it up on jack stands crawl under while a buddy hits the gas. Indy is probably a smarter way to go
By the way I'm in the Chicago area so it's definitely been a cold winter here and not very nice my car.
Always come here for the best advice.
Thanks for any input and come on spring, really like to put the top down again, just don't want to hear that noise.
Calling on the experts.
Few things happening as my daily driver turns spring project.
First issue resolved which was Thermostat, Upper/Lower Hoses and new drive belt. Already had the thermostat because I ordered one after hearing the high speed fan kick on after pulling in the garage when it was about 20 deg outside. Picked up new hoses because it's been about 100K since I last replaced then and a few days after hearing the fan, the lower hose popped off where it connects to the thermostat housing, mainly because I had a screw clamp on it and not the regular style and the cold weather hasn't helped.
Second: The ABS started acting up again but may be because of old battery. A few months back my windows would drop when you open the door and not come back up. After a few days everything was back to normal. I think it's been 5 years at least so I will change and see if it correct the ABS otherwise I'll have to check the solder joints in the ABS unit. Did a 7/8" hole over the location with a plug so not hard to fix.
It's been intermittent and mostly on now but every once in a while when I start the ABS light always comes on but it will either go out when I start driving or the stab/trac fault pops up. I've cleaned the wheel sensors, rears were gunked up but fronts were clean. Cables look fine and I checked them with a OHM meter to make sure they weren't shorted.
Third: Have a slow power steering fluid leak. Crawled under and it looks like the hose may be the culprit. Wiped everything off didn't see any dripping so I started her up and turned the wheel a few times. Crawled back under and it saw fluid running down from around the valve body but looks like it's coming from above the housing. I think the hose snakes back that way but hard to see. Saw the DIY about the steering rack that turned out to be a hose so have to drop it to confirm.
Spoke with JAG dealer about hoses and they said it's all one assembly, hoses and rack. I know that's not true because you can buy the hoses and rack separately online. Also asked them about the bolt size for the 4 mounting bolts and they said they didn't have any info on them. I think there a 10mm x 36mm but the head measured 13mm which is typical for and 8mm bolt. Thought it may be a special bolt so called Jaguar. Always like to have the bolts just in case.
Fourth and most annoying: Have a noise which sounds like it's coming from the rear. Sounds like creaking/rubbing at slow speed and chirping at higher so the sound is in relationship to speed. Most prominent when accelerating and seems to disappear when I left off the gas. However when I slow to a stop the sound comes back as the creaking/rubbing. Very consistent sound no matter whether I turn left or right and even or serpentine.
Thought/hoped it might just be brakes but not the case. Put new brakes on as the old ones only had about 1/16" of pad left, sound remains. Check the bearings with a wiggle test but they seem solid. Same with the half shafts, no play that I can find. Greased the half shafts while I was down there and no change.
Any thoughts on the best way to figure this one out?
I know sound travels under a car but I'm leaning toward the differential or drive shaft universal. Right track?
I was thinking of doing a ferris beuller and ut it up on jack stands crawl under while a buddy hits the gas. Indy is probably a smarter way to go
By the way I'm in the Chicago area so it's definitely been a cold winter here and not very nice my car.
Always come here for the best advice.
Thanks for any input and come on spring, really like to put the top down again, just don't want to hear that noise.
#2
For the noise problem: I don't see a problem with putting the rear on stands and looking for the noise. If the car is on a solid level surface like a garage floor with the front wheels chocked and stands and a jack in the back, maybe you can find the noise by rotating the wheels by hand, trans. in neutral. If not, then running the car in drive at idle might duplicate the sound. Just keep your head down and hands in your pockets. Good luck.
#3
Thanks Mike, checked that when I changed the rear brakes and with the rotors off I didn't feel any kind of rubbing. No noise I could detect and Mileage hasn't suffered so really throw by this one. The noise only seems to happen under load meaning when accelerating or slowing down (engine braking) whether brakes are being applied or not, no diff. The only time it doesn't seem to happen is when you reach speed and let off the accelerator. It disappears until you either press the accelerator again or slow down for a light.
I didn't look at the drive shaft connection to the differential so I guess that's next. Try to inspect soon but busy at work and no room in my shop at the moment.
I didn't look at the drive shaft connection to the differential so I guess that's next. Try to inspect soon but busy at work and no room in my shop at the moment.
The following users liked this post:
mike66 (03-21-2014)
#4
So got it up on jack stands and started the car. Put it in gear and only the driver's side wheel turns with the ASC message. I expect that's because only the drivers side wheel turns with no load. Noise was coming from both rears on the ground so I will do both rears and be done with it.
Noise is emanating from the wheel bearings, Not as loud but that's most likely because there wasn't any weight on the tire. So it looks like the rear bearings are good for about 215K. Still feel solid but with the extremely cold winter may have developed moisture inside and rusted or something.
Half shafts, Diff, & Drive Shaft were silent.
I see there are lower pivot bearings and was wondering if I should just rebuild the whole unit. I may disassemble the lower unit first and see how those look.
Noise is emanating from the wheel bearings, Not as loud but that's most likely because there wasn't any weight on the tire. So it looks like the rear bearings are good for about 215K. Still feel solid but with the extremely cold winter may have developed moisture inside and rusted or something.
Half shafts, Diff, & Drive Shaft were silent.
I see there are lower pivot bearings and was wondering if I should just rebuild the whole unit. I may disassemble the lower unit first and see how those look.
#5
#6
Winter issues resolved
Yeah, Issues resolved.
First resolution
New thermostat and hoses as already posted.
Second resolution:
Not the battery but found this while I was doing the third resolution.
While bleeding the power steering system with car off but in acc. so I could cycle the rack from stop to stop. ABS light was on but when I went all the way to the right the TRAC/STAB fault came up.
Turns out I had a bad connection on the passenger side ABS cable. When I wiggled the wire nothing, wiggle connector-nothing. Exposed the last three inches of the connection. Wires weren't broken but but if I tugged on the red lead the fault came up. So played with the connection a bit then taped it up. No more fault.
So far so good but does anyone know where to get the connector with new leads so I can splice in a new connector?
Third resolution:
Made a separate post for that one with pics, replaced hose with new style hose and looks like that was the culprit. Yeah, don't need to rebuild/replace rack.
Fourth resolution:
Finally was able to get the repeat the noise while not driving. It was the outer universal in the half-shaft. So replaced both universal on the drivers' side and no more noise.
That was a project and a half, had to use a 5/8" and a modified 11/16" box wrench to undo the 4 bolts holding half-shaft to the differential. Couldn't get sockets on them and could only do 1/8 turns before having to reset the tools. JTIS had special tools listed for removing the axle nut but was able to get around having to have those. Did have to go and get a 27mm socket for the rear axle nut though. Had a friend step on the brakes and loosened the nut to bypass first tool. Used a gear puller to separate end of half shaft from hub by snugging then tapping on the stud of the gear puller, repeat snug tap process till it was free as not to damage hub.
I found it interesting that the PS pump connections were inch and not metric.
Looked at the rear bearings and they were fine, only thing I may have a question about is the JTIS mentioned pressing out the rear hub when doing the wheel bearings but mine was more like a fit-fit or slip fit. No play when together but maybe I should do the rear bearings and a new hub.
First resolution
New thermostat and hoses as already posted.
Second resolution:
Not the battery but found this while I was doing the third resolution.
While bleeding the power steering system with car off but in acc. so I could cycle the rack from stop to stop. ABS light was on but when I went all the way to the right the TRAC/STAB fault came up.
Turns out I had a bad connection on the passenger side ABS cable. When I wiggled the wire nothing, wiggle connector-nothing. Exposed the last three inches of the connection. Wires weren't broken but but if I tugged on the red lead the fault came up. So played with the connection a bit then taped it up. No more fault.
So far so good but does anyone know where to get the connector with new leads so I can splice in a new connector?
Third resolution:
Made a separate post for that one with pics, replaced hose with new style hose and looks like that was the culprit. Yeah, don't need to rebuild/replace rack.
Fourth resolution:
Finally was able to get the repeat the noise while not driving. It was the outer universal in the half-shaft. So replaced both universal on the drivers' side and no more noise.
That was a project and a half, had to use a 5/8" and a modified 11/16" box wrench to undo the 4 bolts holding half-shaft to the differential. Couldn't get sockets on them and could only do 1/8 turns before having to reset the tools. JTIS had special tools listed for removing the axle nut but was able to get around having to have those. Did have to go and get a 27mm socket for the rear axle nut though. Had a friend step on the brakes and loosened the nut to bypass first tool. Used a gear puller to separate end of half shaft from hub by snugging then tapping on the stud of the gear puller, repeat snug tap process till it was free as not to damage hub.
I found it interesting that the PS pump connections were inch and not metric.
Looked at the rear bearings and they were fine, only thing I may have a question about is the JTIS mentioned pressing out the rear hub when doing the wheel bearings but mine was more like a fit-fit or slip fit. No play when together but maybe I should do the rear bearings and a new hub.
The following users liked this post:
mike66 (04-06-2014)
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