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Hi Guys, I don't know - this may be really obvious, but I have to admit I just don't get it. Yesterday I posted a heads up about loose regulator bolts and how it can negatively impact window alignment.
Despite my efforts yesterday to tighten things down and keep everything aligned properly, I find that the passenger's window doesn't seal with the vertical rear quarter window's rubber seal. Since all the regulator bolts were loose, I'm sure the adjustment got knocked out of alignment too.
I opened the attached TSB on this very topic, wind noise, but I am not grasping their terminology. Would you mind helping me boil it down?
On page1, they discuss "'Alignment of Glass with Feature Line." What is a feature line? What should I be observing?
I hope this solves the issue, but it seems to describe moving the glass forward and backward, they are not calling the outside of the glass forward and the inside backward right?
After I nail this adjustment, I will play with the adjustment screws in the lower left/right corners to see if that is needed to push the glass into the quarter window seal better.
Frustrating for me since I've done this once before, even posted the idea of closing the door, window up, on a piece of paper to judge the pressure between the glass and the seal. Now I can't remember what I adjusted (gotta laugh at myself). In case the paper idea was something I read in an obscure TSB, I wanted to bring it up in case you recall that TSB and can point me to it.
I believe @rothwell is right, but there's a hitch! I find that there's a lot of parallax when trying to follow those instructions.
Since the feature line and the window are at different depths, you'll see different alignments when looking horizontally vs perpendicularly to the molding. For that reason, I kind of ignore the step as undefined.
In this case the feature line is the deepest point the glass can go into the rubber seal within that edge molding.
I think the TSB is just trying to say "make sure that your glass is adjusted so that it penetrates the rubber seal as much as possible and ensures that the glass is high enough to seal within the convertible top rubber". Since you can't see inside the top's rubber when the glass is up you can use the edge alignment technique as described in the TSB.
I just looked at the diagram in your linked post. I will have the door card off tomorrow and will report back. If it's there I'll measure the size parameters Volkris.
Ha! That's pretty funny that you're on that first link.
Thanks, here's what I suspect you might find in there. Maybe there are two nylon bolts that shove directly against the window glass to press it outward with lock nuts to keep them at the right depth? Like I said in my thread, on my door there are just two empty threaded holes where the TSB says these bolts should live.
V, I looked carefully, no sign of any such adjustment screw or anything like it on my 98. Is it possible that you saw instructions for an X150 (post 2007) and that explains the discrepancy?
Thanks for looking. Did you happen to notice two empty threaded holes near where the window meets the door? That's the clue I had that this procedure applies to this car too.
Sadly, I don't seem to have bookmarked the instructions I used, so I can't check for a model year note. Maybe I'll come across it again sooner than later.
I carefully checked, no such holes. Just the white plastic receptacles for the door card.
just revisited your link. No, I was wrong. The diagram is for a 2003 X100. Wish I had the door card off right now. I'm sure no adjustments on the inside door metal surface. But the use of the term "waist" reminded me they referenced the outside rubber molding with that word, and used same term for dead reckoning the glass position .
Ah, I'm brainstorming, Could they mean the horizontal mounted screws 1/2 inch from inside window surface at top of door that are used for window positioning (vertical plane toward car interior or away from same) and secured top of window channel in place? This bolt does the job described just doesn't match orientation of diagram. The more I think about it, the more I'm leaning towards that conclusion.
Just looked further. There must have been a post 1998 update. H2Oboys link has the same doc you referenced with other pages included. As you can see, there is a picture of both the screws I referenced above, and the adjuster you asked about.
Sorry for the late reply, @Johnken, my alternator died and distracted me from this window puzzle. Also, thanks for answering my question in your thread
I had my door card off to replace a speaker yesterday, so just to make sure we're on the same page I took a couple of photos. The first shows the rearmost of the two threaded holes I was talking about. Do the horizontally mounted screws you were talking about sit in those holes for you? What kind of screw are they?
Two other things I notice: step 9 in the drawings @H20boy posted shows in detail some sort of bolt and nut in what have to be those threaded holes. Second, the pictures of his door has empty holes too. I wonder if his rattle was really because he's lacking these bolts to hold the window in place, and that's also why I have this gap between my window and outer waist (second pic).
This theory holds together in my mind, but what do you think?
Great photos. The "horizontal " screws I mentioned is the grey colored screw in the upper right of photo #1. I was trying to describe it as horizontal because the screw head is accessed from the top of the door.
That same screw will adjust to move your glass flush with the outside rubber seal. It rides in an oval shaped hole . Loosen the screw, which is attached to the top of the window's rear vertical support, and push it towards the outside of the door to eliminate the gap.
Just don't go too far or you'll get a gap between window and rear quarter win dow rubber seal.
I test that gap with a piece of paper. Just close the door on it while it rests on the quarter window rubber. In very cold weather it should at least provide mild resistance to being pulled out.
don't forget about the adjustment hex screw in the bottom rear corner of the door. That pushes or pulls the rear vertical track in/out . I didn't mention this 1st because it pretty much uses the top screw area as a fulcrum- so it can't address that gap as far as I can tell. But it will change the angle of contact with the seal.
regarding the empty adjustment holes in your photo, I've gotta think on this. I can't remember them in my door. I'll probably go look when the temperature rises a bit my friend.
more later, or from smarter people than me on this forum.
Oh! Thanks a lot, I had misinterpreted how the grey screw worked. I didn't realize the bolt itself slid in an oval hole, so I had given a shot at moving the glass while holding the bolt steady. Obviously that didn't work so well
Since I'd had that vertical guide rail out to access the latch, I should have known better.
Anyway, my fit on that window is now so much tighter against the outer waist, which was why I had been so interested in the allegedly missing adjustment screws in the first place.
01-14-2019, 12:18 PM
Need to ask for help interpreting this TSB
