2003 XKR cabriolet, 28K miles. I got this car yesterday and was checking fluid levels and such and noticed this written on one of the valve covers:




I'm guessing that it was a campaign? I know that some mechanics will write down the code when they do a campaign/recall, but usually it's not ON THE ENGINE! Does this mean anything to anyone? No other writing anywhere else that I could see.

Question #2: I noticed some fluid leaking/dripping from the little metal screen at the top of the windshield near the top latch. I should have looked at it more closely before cleaning it. There was one drop dangling and a couple of drops in the ashtray below. I assume that this is hydraulic fluid, and that I need to either tighten up a clamp or install that pressure reducing valve to avoid a future green shower, or both. Thoughts?

Question #3: The tough one, perhaps. The rear light cluster has several lights, the turn signal, the reverse light, fog, brake and parking. Parking lights (my term) come on with the headlights. See pic below,

inner and outer are parking lights. Outer is also a brake light.

So, I got the rear light out message, and the inner light bulb was not working. It is a two filament bulb, but only one positive contact in the housing, so it only uses that one filament. It is a different bulb than the outer one (the outer one has offset pins). A single filament bulb will fit, but won't work (because it doesn't line up with the contact). I had a spare, and I also swapped with the left side (working) bulb, but had the same result:

When I put in the new inner bulb, the outer bulb dims about 50%. Normally I would expect this to be because of a bad ground, but all of the other lights work fine, and they all share the ground, right? Has anyone seen this kind of behavior before and has a fix? The left side does not behave this way, I presume although now that I think about it, I didn't test for that. It's dim enough to be noticeable compared to the other side.

I searched the forum and it seems that most related issues are for people putting in LEDs, or the usual likely culprit, another bulb burned out somewhere or a bad ground. If I don't hear any good ideas, I'll run a new ground to the assembly and see if that helps.

Thanks,
Michael

 

If hydraulic fluid is indeed dripping from above your head, you have already suffered the early stages of the infamous green shower. There is no tightening of clamps that will save you. Either replace the hoses or go to manual top mode....

 

Unfortunately #2 is probably the hard one. Once it starts, I don't think there is any way to stop it.

Replacing those lines is fairly involved and widely reported in several threads.

 

I'm sitting here thinking that maybe they should have caught that in the PPI. Oh well. It's not like it's a huge surprise, I was just hoping that I would have plenty of time to get to it.

 

I suppose there is a small probability that it just happened to start after you took ownership (say, one final cycle of the top broke the camel's back). On the notionally much larger probability there was already a leak, might be worth a discussion if your PPI person has insurance or is bonded in some manner.

It certainly would have been a negotiation point (only subordinate to engine, transmission, the add-on leaper)...

Note: Just being funny about the engine and transmission, clearly the leaper would have taken top spot.

 

The PPI place is three states away, and it would not be unreasonable for the shop to say "bring it by and we'll evaluate it". So I basically have no recourse.

However, really, in hindsight, they should have disclosed the leaper as well. That's nowhere on the PPI report.

TBH, if it had been mentioned, I probably would have bought the car anyway. And I suspect that the seller would not have budged on the price (and I still would have bought it).

 

Indeed...

 

Help me out here, I'm not the best with these initials/acronyns. PPI is "pre purchase inspection"? I catch on after I read some content, LOL.

As for the drip and other minor issues: Good golly man, you should deal with what ever comes along and be joyous!! That is a beautiful low milage car and you were lucky to find it when you did. My car had the manual top lock conversion already done but that is the route I would take. So what if it's not 100% original, it would be a preventive improvement. I can't help with the note on the valve cover. Anyone recognize that number (7.4) as a spec for something? Hmmmmmm.

Just my .02, TM

 

Sorry if I came across as unhappy or resentful or otherwise angry. Not. Just looking for some assistance with these relatively minor unknowns.

BTW, TBH means To Be Honest.

(BTW: By The Way)

I work in I/T. LOA.

Regards,
Michael

LOA: Lots Of Acronyms (yeah, I just made up that one).

 

Question 1. The written note is oil capacity and viscosity ie 7.4 litres of 5w 30.

 

Ah ha. Good catch!

 

Impressive.

 

Worth checking the wiring between the SLM and the lamp assembly in case there's a high resistance join somewhere. Also the ground at the connector, although running a separate one is never a bad idea.

I'd expect the other bulb to dim slightly due to the bulb failure sensing, but not to half brightness. Possibly something amiss in the SLM, but I'd look at the easy stuff first.

 

Oh not at all. Resentment and anger wasn't detected, my jealousy may not have been either. LOL (I know what that one is) :^) TM

 

thanks. I ran a new ground, and that didn't help. So I ran a jumper between the left and right side, same circuit, and that fixed it. I ran the wire directly to the board, and then to the connector plug, and isolated the fault to the wire (not the fixture).

so, yes Michael, there appears to be a resistance problem with the wire. happy am I, making progress!

What is the SLM and where do I find it?

 

[QUOTE

What is the SLM and where do I find it?[/QUOTE]

It’s under the main fuse box in the trunk. Security & Locking Module. Among other things, it controls the rear lights. Be careful not to break the little cable antenna thing screwed into it down low near the battery. It’s the antenna for your keyfob.

 

Oh and for the green shower, Top Hydraulics does significantly upgraded rebuilt hoses/cylinders/latches,etc that are well regarded. If you can afford it, fix the hydraulics (do it all, do it once) & also install Jag Wrangler’s little magic box inside the driver’s door so you can then open & close the top & windows automatically with your keyfob. Because it’s fun & cool & Jaguar should’ve included that to begin with. '96-'06, XK8 / XKR (X100) Convertible Top Remote Control - TheJagWrangler

 

That's what I was thinking but then I thought, who the hell writes that on the engine?

 

Inapplicable info deleted

 

Awesome, thanks!

Awesome X2. I've been researching the fix, but you are the first to suggest a good alternative to OE (which are not an improvement, apparently).

I know, right? The PO was an elderly gentleman, so maybe he did his own oil changes and didn't want to bother trying to remember the number of quarts.

Heck, I've got five cars now. I'll need to create a spreadsheet to keep it all straight. Of course, I'd also write down the size of the drain plug so that I don't have to make two trips down there (as we age, we like crawling on the ground less and less).