Well, I bought a beautiful carnival red 1997 XK8 in August of this year with high hopes. Then I joined the forum and started reading about the issues that can belabor the marque. Don't get me wrong, I'm not new to issues with used cars, and especially high strung cars. But, the idea of the unchanged cam chain tensioners causing the destruction of this fantastic V-8 threw me for a loop. The car has only 35k on the clock, but as my nephew warned me, I was looking at the wrong clock for this engine. I have read the posts about trashed engines and even my nephews experience with a similar issue with an Audi a few years ago that cost him an engine.
Now, I am not afraid of the work to change out the tensioners. I have had many demanding cars in the past and this does not seem to be a big deal. What curls me up is how did the engineers not know that heat cycles, hot oil and lots of chain vibration do not mix well with plastic!
Well that's my rant, and I hope to follow up for any advice and help that is available through this forum. I have seen that many problems can be resolved through a mark forum,( I am a corvette owner and forum member) and will be reading all that I can about this and other issues. The knowledge here is vast, and some of it is beyond my understanding at this point. But I have confidence that the forum members will guide a new owner down the path to success.
Thanks for reading my post, and for all of the posts that will address my and others issues,
Dennis

 

Welcome to the forums Dennis,

Your post was automatically locked for moderation. I couldn't see any issues with the content and have unlocked it.

You have already familiarised yourself with the tensioner issue. You will also read about the other regular issues with this model:

1. Nikasil cylinder bores. You can safely ignore this as the sulphur which caused severe wear was removed from fuel long ago.
2. "sealed for life" transmission - a fluid and filter change at around 70K miles maximum greatly extends "life".
3. plastic cooling system components and early water pump impellers - overheating is another engine killer.

Once you take care of the weak points these are a wonderful vehicle to own and drive.

Graham

 

Graham,
Thanks for the reply and the info. I am looking forward to the challenges and the rewards of Jaguar ownership.
Dennis

 

You just might get lucky... Remove the box and tubing for the air filter on the RH side. Take your time and remove the could and plugs and then remove the bolts for the cam/valve cover on that side.

There is a good chance that IF the upper tensioner on the RH has been changed, your good money. But it's not 100% of course. Start looking down the path of the chain and see what you can see down there. You might be able to make out the glint of steel on the new style tensioner OR you'll see them ol orange things... Youre going to have to open her up

 

JayJagJay, Thanks for the post. Yeah, I will check out what I have, but I will also be concerned about what I see. My dream is that one of the previous 2 owners did a full timing chain redux. But I also realize that dreams don't come true except in Disneyland. Please send good wishes my way.
Regards,
Dennis

 

BEST wishes, of course!

I should be careful. Sometimes folks will change the tops (the ones visible with the cam/valve covers off) and not the lowers. I should say that - lol - cover myself. So careful careful. Anywho

How many miles are on the car and is there anyway to contact previous owner and just ask??? He/she has your $$$$ now (the deal is done) so there is no reason to lie to you. Maybe they can assure you that the work has been done...? Still, knowing is knowing - seeing with your own eyes sometimes is the only real assurance.

I had the no fun experience, chasing a vvt code on the LH bank, which made the removal of the timing chain cover and all it involved a horrible hobby for a while and honestly - just getting in there to SEE is not that bad. If you can afford to have the car laid up a week (in the event that you open it up and they have NOT been changed) while parts come in just open it up. The only real tough thing is the removal of the balancer - which can and will fight you... The rest is not so bad. I think you have too... That or,,,

There's also the boroscope, found cheap on Amazon, or some way to try and down in there once the valve covers are off to see. Ya have to see.

​​​​​​

 

Jay,
I have 35200 miles indicated on the odometer. When I bought the car(from a dealer) I asked about the maintenance records and was told that they only had what was in the car-fax (which is only good if all the data is entered).It listed only regular oil changes and smog tests for California. So far so good, but I have put less than 150 miles on the car in the 2 months I have owned it. I am really careful and will not drive it until I check the top tensioners at least. I was under the impression that I could do the tops and wait until later(70000 miles) to do the bottom chain and guides. If that is so, I will be long departed before 70000 miles is even in sight!
My luck with tools like a boroscope would play out like this: 1) I snake the scope into the engine. 2) I get the scope to the exact right point of view. 3) I can see the tensioners. 4) Wait, what's this? 5) I can clearly see that the tensioners are metal, and there is no perceivable wear. 6) I jump for joy!!!! In doing so, I break the business end of the scope off inside of the engine somewhere @$#%^&@. 7) I can't find, see or feel the broken off piece. 8) I tear down the engine completely. 9) I find the broken piece of the scope where its been since the aforementioned joy jump, on the garage floor next to the trash can. 9) I gaze at the pieces of my wonderful Jaguar V-8 engine. 10) I begin to softly weep.
Unfortunately, even knowing this will happen in advance will not deter me. After all, I own a Jaguar!
Dennis

 

Dennis, welcome!

Hey if you've got $35 and 30 minutes just change the water pump. My car's a 98, our vehicle's water pumps were built with a black plastic impellers that can go defective and disintegrate.

For the time effort and expense involved- just not worth waiting to see if it'll happen.

1. Just ask if you want instructions

2. Did you know / do you know how the hood can be put up in service position? (Pretty much vertical = easy access.

John

 

John,
Yes, I was planning on replacing the water pump. I'm a big believer in preventive maintenance.
Yes please, send the instructions for the pump and the hood service position.
Thanks,
Dennis

 

Not just the water pump. Replace the water pipe above the pump and the thermostat housing ( get the aluminum one). Those plastic parts degrade with age and can cause a hose to blow off.

As for the hoses, at least do the short connecting one, and the upper and lower radiator hoses if they are showing their age.

 

RJ, Thanks, that is good information. This forum is awesome!!!
Dennis

 

First service position.

Tools: 1. a thin small flat blade screwdriver
2.An old cushion or similar (read on it'll make sense)
3. 4 inch bolt, or something metal with the right Outside Diameter (read on)

Open hood. Place cushin on top of manifold. Pick a side, go to strut holding hood open.
Look at the strut/ hood connection. See the U shaped collar on outside of strut?

Stick screwdriver under it. Slide it back a bit to release position (cup it with hand to prevent flying away)

Hold hood weight, slide strut off hood pin.

Now you only have 1 strut holding hood up (not strong enough), plus the strut you just released can't be made flush that's why the cushion box or whatever is there. Lower hood onto it.

Put that bolt in your pocket for ez access.

Release strut other side.

Look at hinge. See the hole? See how they line up of hood vertical? Slide the bolt in. It'll support the hood, which is now in vertical position.

D, the closer you can get size wise to filling up that hole the better it works. Now that you understand, pick a good sized bolt. Not too long or its end may tilt down and scratch something.

DO NOT do this in moderate wind. You will loose ( don't ask. . .)

John

 

Water pump:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...p+instructions

 

OMG DR, you are gonna fit right in with THAT sense of humor. LOL Welcome and yes, great forum and mucho helpful advice. After you check, inspect and correct the niggles of the early cars you will have a fine ride. Where in goodness' name are people hiding these low milage cars. Were they afraid to drive them?? None the less, it's a benefit for you, enjoy, good color choice too. TM

 

John, Thanks for the info on the hood and the water pump. I'm sure I will use both. I wish I had the hood that would do this on my corvettes. For any forward work, it's off with the hood. This is when I mutter, dang I wish I was working on one of my (gone but not forgotten) Spitfires. Love these brit cars.

Dennis

 

Tom,
I bought this car after a Reserve Not Met auction. Wife fell in love with the car, need I say more? This Jaguar was a 2 owner at a dealer in Fresno, CA. I took a leap of faith and bought it based on the pictures. It does not disappoint. I do think that the 2nd owner may actually have been afraid to drive it. He only put an average of 300 miles per year on it for the 10 years that he owned it. Maybe he heard about the timing tensioners and got scared off. Of course he might be like me and does not drive much. I bought a 1986 Corvette in 1992 with 35000 miles on the clock. In almost 30 years of ownership, I have yet to roll it over on 50000 miles. That is a product of living in a relatively small town and owning 5 cars. Green eyes and I fly any place over 200 miles away, and since we live in the middle of Texas, that pretty much means anyplace farther than Dallas, Austin, or Houston.
Having been born and raised in Toledo, Ohio, I am embarrassed to say I don't know where Maine, Ohio is. What city is it near? A suburb of some vast metropolis, or a lovely small Ohio town?
Regards.
Dennis

 

Tom,
I've got you now just Northeast of Cincinnati in Maineville not Maine. Now that is a small town and I'll bet just lovely. I've always liked the area around Southeastern Ohio. Lots of great roads for British sports cars to ride around on. Great diners to relax in also.
Cheers,
Dennis

 

You should really tie the hood off when vertical, it will only take a very mild bit of wind (...............................oddly enough this is one of the few times i didnt learn the hard way You will also need some serious mechanical advantage for the crank bolt. (no, not the dog hes ''health and safety'').

 

Welcome to the best forum on the internet Dennis.

It will prove to be one of the best tools in your toolbox:- together with your sense of humour you're good to go

 

Thanks for the info and the picture. I've got a 5 ft long 1 1/2 id water pipe that I use for "gentle persuasion". Your image well describes the mechanical advantage needed for a crank bolt. The dog would always be welcome, and could understand the struggle. Green eye's cats simply yawn and go back to sleep.
Dennis