Hello!

My name is Charlie (Jarle), I am from Norway and I bought my first Jag yesterday. A wonderfull Silver 1998 XK8.
I've had an interresting car history, I'll list it here.

Weird & lovely cars:
5 Maserati's
1 Lancia Integrale
1 Lamborghini Espada
1 BMW 850
1 Citroen XM

Run off the mill cars:
2 Fords
1 Toyota
1 Mercedes

On my weird cars I've done most of the work myself, including engine changes, tuning, timing chain changed on the Espada and DIY mounting of EFI on one of my Maserati's. I'd say I'm a competent amateur mechanic.

Then I have some questions...

1) XK reliability, how are they compared to other luxury performance cars in this department. I'm happy if I can expect something like the BMW 850. A bit less reliable than a standard car, but better than many of the Italian cars in the same category.

2) When I bought the car, I was alerted by an audible (not loud) tick\clunk from the front of the engine when cold. I got this specified in the contract with the dealer, so I will deliver it this week hopefully to a workshop. It goes away as soon as the engine heats up or I drive a few meters. Could sound like the well known tensioner problem or the VVT. How do I differ between the two problems. Are the tensioners easily viewed?

3) How many hours are quoted on the tensioner(s?) change?

4) The tensioner problem is well known, do they dealers replace them as a service item, or do they hope for them to break and earn some more money?

5) The VVT problem. What is involved in this job, and what is the normal quote for it?

6) Can these cars take a good amount of kilometers\miles? I do drive a lot, and don't want to overhaul the engine every 100k. Anyone on the forum having cars that have covered a lot of miles?

7) Are both of these issues possible as a DIY? Not sure if I want to though, since the dealer will probably pay for it.

Apart from this, a fantastic car, and looking forward to owning it for many years to come.

Thanks!

Sincere greetings, Jarle Adolfsen, Norway

 

Welcome to the forum!

Wow! Musta read a lot of posts to pick up on all the issues.
One additional one . . . the '98 had a Service Action on the throttle body, S514. The recall expires 12/31. Have a dealer pull the records based on the VIN to confirm that it has been done. You could get a new throttle body.

1) XK reliability . . . Probably about average for a high end car. The Beemer and Benz boys seem to complain about as much as we do.

2) . . . an audible (not loud) tick\clunk from the front of the engine when cold . . . Ticks are probably the VVTs, the tensioners are reported to 'rattle'.

Are the tensioners easily viewed? Easily seen once you get the valve covers off, but have to be removed to see cracks and loose slippers. Bottom line, if you can see plastic tensioners . . . replace them.

3) How many hours . . . Don't know the book hours but it took me 4 hours and I had never done that before.

4) The tensioner . . . service item . . . ? Replaced only on a report of a 'rattle' on start up or as a preventative measure mostly when the car changes owners.

5) The VVT problem . . . There doesn't appear to be a 'problem' with the VVTs. Most issues are oil/oil pressure related i.e. coked oil or low oil pressure.

6) . . . take a good amount of kilometers\miles? Properly maintained they seem to last as long as any car. My '00 Nikasil engine with 106k miles had compression dead center of new engine specs. The one exception is the 'sealed for life' transmission. 'Life' is about 80k to 100k miles. Change the transmission fluid at 60k.

7) . . . issues possible as a DIY? Tensioners certainly are.

Check out the FAQ sticky above under 'I'm buying a car, what should I look for?' for more discussions.

 

Welcome!

You got to love a guy who lists a mercedes as a run of the mill car!

 

I have read the throttlebody issue. Will talk to the dealer. It seems the VIN is within the series...

1) This is what I have reckoned.. I've been warned about most of the cars on my weird list, and all of them proved to better than anticipated.

2) I did call one of the workshops who did a diagnose on it a little while back, and they reported a slight tensioner sound. So it's definately that. I will contact the dealer I bought the car from. The parts seem to be quite affordable? Where do you guys buy parts from?

3) Good, so if the dealer of some reason turns mental, I'll just do it myself.

4) Well, I think this how it was diagnosed some time back.

5) OK, good.

6) If it's sealed for life, how do you actually fill it?

7) Thanks.. Worst case this is what I'll do..

Thanks for the welcome! Appreciate it!
Been involved in a number of forums, and know how helpfull they can be.

Cheers, Jarle


Cheers, Jarle

 

Ha ha, thanks

If you look at my weird cars list, you must agree that any Mercedes looks and behaves pretty bleak compared to a 1974 Lambo Espada V12!!
Perhaps apart from the SLR and SL Black series..
And regarding Jaguar, I feel most Jaguars have a dignity present, that most cars don't have. Similar to some of the luxory Lancia's as well, like the Thesis.

Thanks for the welcome

Cheers, Jarle

 

Most of us shop on line for parts. Here is a long list of Jaguar related suppliers: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=11249

The transmission is filled by pumping ATF into a hole in the side of the case, much like a manual transmission. Issues associated with filling with car level, shifting while filling, correct amount of ATF at a specified temperature. Other than that, no problem.

 

Looks like testpoint has you pointed (pun intended) in the right direction. With your mechanical aptitude, you should be able to handle most of the issues you'll have with the car. Good for you!

There was thread in here somewhere that used Ford part numbers for the entire secondary tensioners, wasn't there test?

 

Excellent post with video of tensioner replacement:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=22797

Ford (Lincoln) part numbers follow but I don't know how many SLs were sold in Norway.

PART NUMBER DESC QTY
1 2W9Z-6268-AA CHAIN (pri) 553 2
2 2W9Z-6268-BA CHAIN (sec) 553 2
3 2W9Z-6L266-AA TENSIONER 557 2
4 2W9Z-6L253-AA TENSIONER 557 2
5 2W9Z-6K254-BA TENSIONER 555 1
6 2W9Z-6K254-CA TENSIONER 555 1
7 2W500301-S300 SCREW 884 4
8 2W9Z-6K297-AB GUIDE 19 2
9 3W4Z-6584-AB GASKET 993 1
10 3W4Z-6584-BB GASKET 993 1
11 2W9Z-6700-AA SEAL AS 737 1
12 2W9Z-6020-AA GASKET 742 1
13 2W9Z-6020-BA RING 871 1

Orderable through any Ford dealer for significantly less than Jaguar parts. Boxes are labeled 'JAG'.

 

The video was great, and thanks for all of the other info..
Luckily though, the dealer was very forthcoming, paying the bill 100%.

I do love to familiarize myself with the car, so will read through a lot on the forum. Video was a nice idea I must add.

Cheers, Jarle

 

By looking at this list, and the video these questions come to mind:

1) If only changing the upper tensioners, which of these parts do I need?
2) To change the cam tensioners, which makes the sound, do the primary chain have to come off, or is it possible to swap the cam chains and tensioner with the primary chain in place?
3) What would a UK workshop or US workshop charge for this job?

Thanks guys..

Cheers, Jarle

 

Here are the minimum parts needed and what I installed. I had had the covers off for inspection before and did not have any sigh of a leak so thought I would try it again without replacing the gaskets. 4k miles later and still no leaks.

2W9Z-6K254-BA TENSIONER
2W9Z-6K254-CA TENSIONER
2W500301-S300 SCREW (4)

Total cost, including shipping $123.

You have to lock the cams in position with the special tool, remove the exhaust cam sprocket only and then remove the 2 bolts holding the tensioner on. Easy.

If you choose to replace the chain you either have to tear down the front cover and primary chain assemblies or use a repair link. Jaguar does not think repair links are proper but some independent techs use them.

Dealer repair $1000 plus, independent, $800. Another $1000 for the primary set.

 

The job seems easy enough when just replacing the upper tensioner..
The sound is definately from the top, so replacing on both sides is probably good. Anyone have theories on why the lowers don't go, while the upper ones do? Could it be the heads are hotter than the block?

I checked with a Swedish Jag dealer today, and they mistakingly quoted me for the whole shebang. Primary chain, secondary chains and all tensioners.. 2300 £ or about 4000 $. Something like 2000$ if you replace only the upper ones. Nordic countries are expensive, esp. Norway.

Cheers, Jarle