Would a non functioning door ajar switch in the door latch mechanism cause the window to not reset properly when opening and closing the door?
I am guessing that are not available without buying a complete latch assembly?

 

Greg, the micro switch will cause all kinds of problems, and it seems to work from one door to the next.
Jon and I replaced his on both sides and he did a great write up, if you can't find it, I'll get hold of Jon89 and I'm sure he has a record. Small hands and turning the latch what seems to be the wrong way got it out smoothly.
The down bar, I think on the driver's side disconnects a bit funny, not like it would seem. It's more a cover and you push up to get it loose.
Jon also has the numbers for the switch in the Thread, very cheap, just painful to get the adjustment right.

 

No, 99% of the time it’s usually just needing a window memory re-set. Do a forum search for the procedure.

if you re-set the window memory and it won’t stay fixed, then a low battery is usually at fault.

a bad micro switch is way on down the list of probable causes.

Z

 

Except if the car doesn't know the door is shut, it won't even try and raise the window back up. The OP needs to give us more details of what is going wrong before we can really guess as to the cause.

 

[img alt="This is why I love coming behind an idiot when troubleshooting car issues. I am guessing they tried replacing the door ajar part of the latch and splicing(very poorly) into the old harness.
Wish I had a good wiring diagram for this car. Now to decide. Resplice with a quality splice or just bite the bullet and replace the whole thing."]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/doorlatchassembly_7b90069e9e5a6a920cecebff4cfbfb84 1cff4e31.jpeg[/img]
This is why I love coming behind an idiot when troubleshooting car issues. I am guessing they tried replacing the door ajar part of the latch and splicing(very poorly) into the old harness. Wish I had a good wiring diagram for this car. Now to decide. Resplice with a quality splice or just bite the bullet and replace the whole thing.

 

Mmmm. Not the best

You can download the 2003 Electrical Guide from member Gus' site of things here:
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk2003.pdf

 

Hijacking this as I am in the process of doing exactly this job.

But the pushrod for the lock (with a sleeve that locks the coupling to the shaft) is behind a metal frame. Looks like something that Jaguar have included (perhaps UK models only?) to prevent thieves putting something down the window seal to actuate the lock. It probably works great for that, as even with the door card off and the window fully up I cannot get at the sleeved part of the coupling. If I cannot removed this plate (and I am not sure I can) then my other option is to disassemble at the coupling itself. This seems to be a plastic push-in clip with a plastic pin in the middle to flare it. I cannot push the pin out from either side with reasonable force.

I really don't want to break anything and make it difficult to reassemble without making it unreliable (this would be a very bad mechanism to lose the use of when you really need it).

Anybody done this on a UK XK8 or any other model that has the shield around the lock pushrod?

 

Gnorty, that is the connection I was talking about.
Just grab it pull down and that should free the latch from that connection.
Been a while since I did that job, so if it doesn't push up on the outer part, nothing like any thing else I have seen.

 

I'm not sure what you are saying to pull down.


To be clear - the whole pushrod, from the lock itself down to the module is covered by a heavy cadmium plated box frame, which I assume is to prevent thieves actuating the mechanism by putting a hook between the window and seal and reaching down, There is really nothing to pull.

If I pull the whole module downward quite hard, it doesn't separate, and feels like it will break soon. I can turn the key in the lock and get the mechanism to lower a little, the attachment between pushrod and the module comes to maybe 10mm below the metal box, I can see the connection point, with the pushin connector with a central flaring pin, but I cannot see th rest of the plastic joint.. I certainly cannot see the black sleeve that every tuturil says should slide back. I am sure mine would slide back and be fine, if only it was not inside a metal box section.

 

This is a really good thread on getting this done with some video by Reverend Sam

HOW TO: Remove and Replace the Door Latch (Video)FAQ - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

I replaced the entire door lock assembly with a used one and guess what? Everything seems to be working as it should!!

 

I did the same in the end. I replaced the microswitch first and it sort of worked (door not saying it is open any more) but the window wind-down when the door opens wasn't right - as soon as I released the door handle the window would lift again fouling on the top seal. Tried adjusting the switch a couple of times, seemed fine on the bench but not working properly in the car.Ended up biting the bullet and buying a used one because putting it in/out is non trivial and I just got pissed off with it after the third try!. Interestingly, when I tested it on the bench before fitting it seemed exactly like my old one with new switch so I wonder if the hysteresis on the switches is different or something like that. Either way new one fitted and all fine.

To close the look on the shield I hijacked to mention - it is fixed to the lower of the 2 outer door handle screws (M7 head self tap) and a slide in clip (the sort of thing that normally clips to a panel and a self tapper screws into the clip). Undo the screw, tap the shield downward once the screw is removed and it pops out dead easy.

I never did work out how the slide clip for the door key pushrod works, but undoing the 2 outer door handle screws with the latch assembly loose in the door cavity allows you to lift the handle out enough to detach the pushrod at that end. I couldn't move the black portion of the plastic clip using reasonable force, and didn't want to break it by forcing.

 

Exactly what I did! I had the same problem with my passenger door