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Overheating - Plan To Replace Thermostat Water Pump Expansion Tank

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Old 07-19-2018, 07:37 PM
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Default Overheating - Plan To Replace Thermostat Water Pump Expansion Tank

Hi All!

I've been having a bit of an issue with my 2006 XKR. About a two years ago it began to overheat while stopped at a red light. Happened to be close to a dealer. Took it in. Told by dealer that the expansion tank is leaking and needs to be replaced. I Purchased and replaced with a new one. Drove for the next 15 months. Small coolant smell but considered coming from leak. For the last two months, began to leak again. Couldn't find the leak but knew it was under the expansion tank. Changed the clamp to the 1 inch hose under tank. Filled with Dex mix and manually removed air by squeezing upper hose. Started engine moved out of garage 10 feet and let run for 15 min. In eyesight entire time. Checked every 3-4 min. Looking good. Started cleaning garage floor. I look up 5 min later - fluid and smoke everywhere around the expansion tank. Looked at temp gauge inside and in the red. Turned off car and checked tank. Fluid spraying out all sides of tank. I pray there isn't too much damage to the engine. Well, I'm ready to replace tank but want to replace thermostat and water pump as well. Any suggestions? Looking for good instructions on forum (hopefully with pictures). I've been searching but it is like looking for a needle in the biggest haystack ever! Need a little assistance.

MMJJAG
 
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Old 07-19-2018, 09:12 PM
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Mm, sounds like you are asking about the replacement job. Pretty easy, here are some points to help:

thermostat:
only works correctly in 1 direction. You'll have to search for the dead reckoning instructions here. I remember there is an indicator on thermostat outside, can't recall what where or orientation.

water pump:https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...highlight=Pump
1) Plenty of discussion on blades.
defective black plastic blades are assuredly used up gone from stock. Buy one costs about $40. You may get metal blades you may get brown or black plastic. Without getting too deep they all work fine.

loosen the pulley bolts before you remove serpentine belt.

if you are using an external gasket grab some tacky adhesive to hold it in place.

you will want to put hood in service position. Do you know how? If No t we can advise.

which rank are you replacing, the one on top of engine? If so, the plastic lines that run into it are super fragile. Expect to crack one and have proper size rubber heater hose with tiny clamps on hand to repair or replace any damage. Other than that my recall is this was easy and straightforward to replace.

John

read the torque specs for the pump's bolts. It is a lot lower than you'd think. But do come back on day 2 and check they are properly tightened .
 

Last edited by Johnken; 07-19-2018 at 09:18 PM. Reason: After typing all that I remember I posted instructions her is link
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Old 07-20-2018, 11:10 AM
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Thanks Johnken! I plan to get this done this weekend. The link you added is certainly helpful! Doesn't seem too difficult. The tank is the refill on driver's side top of engine near windshield. Changing it again. Those hoses are fragile for sure!

I'm not sure about the hood in the service position. Yes, please advise. Thanks! As for the water pump, should I replace the fan clutch as well? Picked up the pump from Rockauto (GMB 1256030). Blades inside are grey although RA photos show black. Came with gasket. Thermostat from RA as well (STANT 14748). Housing not included. Hopefully not needed.

Any other advice - I'm all ears!!! Thanks again!

mmjjag
 
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Old 07-20-2018, 11:56 AM
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The plastic housing on the 4.2 engine is liable to crack, like all plastic cooling system parts. The one on my 06 started leaking at 51K mi.

Just noticed you have SC engine, ignore that comment.
 
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Old 07-20-2018, 03:25 PM
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Just had to replace my temp sensor. It is a 3/4 wrench. Electric release is on bottom of sensor. Looks like you don't need teflon tape to seal it when reinstalling.


I assume the service position is same for all X100:

Get an empty 10 gallon gas tank, or something similar (will explain self below):

First gather tools. 1) get a bolt or screwdriver to put in the hole you can see on the hinge support either side. Once hood is in service position, this will be inserted to prevent closing.
2) small flat head screw driver

How to: 1) place empty tank gently on the intake manifold. as soon as you relieve tension on either side hood will self close. This will support it without damaging anything.
2) go to either side. slide screwdriver under the black metal U shaped fastener that surrounds the connection. You access the release groove from the side that points inside towards center of hood. Lift up (be SUPER careful the fastener doesn't launch!!!!) As soon as the fastener is released the support is removed from the hood pin by sliding inward. Lay support down in it's resting position. you will see that the support will be in extended position that's why you have the empty tank in place as a buffer. You wouldn't want hood to close onto the support. Gently close hood onto the support as you move to other side.
3) Open hood, unfasten other side. Lay support down, move hood vertical. Insert the bolt / screwdriver to support in Serivce position.

No tools needed for reattachment. Just press the support in place with your hands.

BTW just found this for thermostat replacement: http://matt.zenfolio.com/xk-coolant-...tat---v1-1.pdf It is in our stickies section.

John
 

Last edited by Johnken; 07-20-2018 at 07:06 PM. Reason: better description - I just had to do it myself.
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Old 07-22-2018, 01:15 PM
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Hi RJ237 - Thanks for the info! Just want to be clear, you stated - "Just noticed you have SC engine, ignore that comment." Ignore what comment? Communication sometimes lost online...

Johnken - Got it!! The info from that pdf link is great! Thanks!!! Been raining all weekend so haven't been able to tackle the job yet...
 
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