This is my 2000 xk8 that I just got done repairing the engine. Now I have transmission issues.

When I first put it in gear no problems. Start to accelerate it's ok at first then it starts slipping, going in and out of gear. Then it will go to 5th gear, limp mode but it doesn't display limp mode on display only gearbox fault. I can turn engine off and it will start from first gear again.

I don't think it is the A drum because the ones that I had before with A drum failure would not go through the gears it would go straight to 5th gear. Also I can in first gear step on the brake and give it gas and there is on slipping of the transmission. If the A drum was bad I think it would be slipping or go straight to 5th gear.

Looking at the codes it might be a speed sensor. I have used spares at my shop. Need a few opinions if this is the way I should go or should I go in another direction.

Thanks, Bob

Forgot to mention I just replaced the pressure regulator with the Transgo kit along with new filter and oil.

 

Gee I haven't worked on this car since September. Need to see if I can figure it out this weekend so I can free up my lift to work on the fuel pump in the 99xk8.

Any ideas of something else or are the speed sensors in the transmission my best bet.

 

speed sensor or faulty harness

 

Thanks Steve, I checked the connector last week and it was clean with no oil. Cleaned with electrical cleaner while I had it disconnected. Tomorrow I'll change the speed sensors and hope that cures the codes.

 

You can read the Solenoids and Speed sensors from the transmission control module. Use this link on my transmission trouble.

Link Go to issue #2 JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Link Go to page 67 & 68 http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...des/201_SG.pdf

Hope this helps

 

Thanks to Gus's site and his links I tested the speed sensors and they have the correct resistance. While at it I checked the solenoids and they are all within range. Removed the internal harness and it is also good.

So what possible causes I have left are low on fluid or mechanical failure. I believe I had the fluid at the proper level but I could have made a mistake, I think I'm human.

As for mechanical failure it's possible as I did find some minor metal shavings and I do mean minor. If the A drum is failing it would have to be at its early stages since no fragments were found. Seems strange to have transmission failure as some of you may recall this is the car I got with a frozen engine caused by tensioner failure. For it to have engine problems and transmission failure at the same time is mind boggling.

My plan is to put the sensors and harness back in fill it full of fluid and see what it does. If the problem persist I remove the transmission at a later date and fix the fuel pump on my 99xk8 first.

 

The P1722 leads me to low fluid and or shifter cable adjustment and last Transmission failure.

The P1732 leads me to low fluid. Now it is calling this code Gearshift load control malfunction.

I would first revisit the fluid level and I will tell you why. I filled my transmission fluid after a transmission replacement and found it to be about a half qt low and that made a difference. I think it developed an air pocket that gave me a false indication when I filled it the first time. Second I would check the shifter cable for proper adjustment. Now the cable may not be out of adjustment and if it is not then I would have the TCM checked. I have the TSB link for the shifter cable adjustment on that same page and it is simple to check. My car had a problem with the shifter cable, TCM and low fluid so I would say to check it all first.

 

Well got ot all cleaned up and put back together. Fill it full of fluid. Go to start the car so I can run it through the gears to get it up to temperature so I can get it to the proper level. The motor turns over and over but won't fire. Check the schrader valve and no fuel comes out. Put on pressure gague and zero pressure. Checked fuse and changed relay and no go. I can't hear if the pump comes on because I had pneumonia a couple of weeks ago and blew out my right ear drum from coughing so hard. It will heal in a month but for now I'm partially deaf in that ear and have a real loud ringing.

So it might look like another fuel pump. I will do a little more testing tomorrow and find somebody with two good ears if they can hear the fuel pump. But for now I'm going to quit for the day, go home and open up my tawny port.

 

I think your 2000 is like my 99 so look at this power check for the fuel pump. It has two power fuses and one relay for the pump one when you turn the key on to prime the fuel and the other when the engine is running. Check your fuses & relay first then take a pressure reading.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Thankks for the link Gus. I have checked the fuse and relay and all are good. Today I will check power to the pump.
NOTE: Wnen checking fuses there is a fuse for pump #2 but my car is N/A, why is there a fuse there. It doesn't have a relay for the second pump which it shouldn't have.

Gus on a personal note I am amazed with the information and detail on your site. I wish I had the talent and patience you have to be able to do what you have done. Sometimes just pushing the THANKS buttom isn't enough.

By the way I'm also working on a 97 7.3L Powerstroke with lack of power. You wouldn't be interested in starting a new site titled POWERSTROKEREPAIR.COM. I could use somebody with your talents.

 

XKR’s have 2 fuel pumps so your XK8 would not be fitted with the second pump but it is strange that it has a fuse installed for it.

When you checked your fuses did you remove them and test or do it in place? The best way to test them is to remove them and that also gives you a restrike on the contacts. Yes checking for power at the plug to the pump would be the next step.

I would love to help on the Powerstroke but my hands a full now. Thanks for the kind words!

 

Working by myself I decided it was easier for me to disconnect the harness at the right side of the fuel tank. I got a the male side connector that is coming from the fuse box from one of my parts cars. Plug it into the harness on the tanks female connector. Put 12 volts to the pump hot wire, brown/white, and grounded the black wire, the heavier gauge black wire, and the pump didn't come on. The pump is bad so now I can order a second pump.

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Gus, in your fuel pump replacement linked above, you had trouble getting the fuel lines off under the car. Did you happen to see the Reverend Sam video on how he took a piece of plastic conduit and formed it so he could release the fuel lines?

Thanks again for your help.

 

Yes I have seen his procedure. I just used a screwdriver to push further than my fingers would. It was not difficult making the tool work it was a real PITA just installing the tool on the line so I could use it. Yes Sam had problems making it work but he also had other issues with the tank.

 

Got the fuel pump today for this car. Got it installed and the car started right up. Now that that is repaired back to the transmission.

Got the transmission oil to the proper level. Cleared the codes and took it for a short spin. First off when I put it into drive there is a slight hesitation before it goes into gear. Took off from standstill OK. There is slipping when it goes from first to second and second to third. After stopping and going through the gears a couple of time I got gearbox failt and limp mode.
Codes are P0732, 2nd gear incorrect ratio, and P0733 pending, 3rd gear incorrect ratio.
In my opinion it looks like A drum failure. Every time I got a car with a bad A drum they acted like this.
I think this car is jinxed. Got it with a frozen motor from tensioner failure, fuel pump goes bad, and A drum failure. O well I guess it's not a good time for me to buy lottery tickets with this luck.

 

Got the transmission out and confirmed it is the A drum. The photo on left shows the drum failing but no fragments have broken off yet. It must of been like this for a while. The friction disc are pretty well toast and you can see the drum where it got hot. Second photo shows disc on left out of another car with 100,000 miles and a disc from this transmission.
I'm going to get a new drum, gasket kit, and new friction disc. The steels in this drum got a little hot but otherwise look OK, but I'm going to use the steels from a spare transmission to be safe.

 

Transmission back in, fluid topped off, started back up, ran is through the gears while on the lift and the codes are gone. I'll take it for a drive tomorrow and run it through the cycle so I can get to P1111. Then I can get my smog and complete the registration.

Need to start a new thread now, I have a few cosmetic and minor issues to fix that I have a few questions about.

 

Bob congratulations, man I wish I had your ability to fix a tranny! All I can do is pray it doesn't happen to me.

May I assume that, contrary to local Mechanic up here, the A drums are still readily available from what you've seen?

Glad she's back on the road.

John

 

+1

You certainly don't waste any time!

Mike

 

Just got back from test drive. Shifts smoothly and the engine is strong. But it drives like a garbage truck. This is the first time I had the car on the road and it feels like the front end needs a little attention. I will add that to my list.

John the A drums are everywhere. Google xk8 A drum and you get a dozen hits. I got mine from a local transmission parts warehouse.

I took pictures of the entire process and I was thinking of doing a thread of the process. I not very good at doing this kimd of thing. I wish I had Gus' talent and patience to do it like he does.