There is first time for everything. After 102K miles I got my first check engine light. Hooked up the reader and got a P1647 code. My list says "Linear O2 sensor control Chip." (bank 2) Chip? Is that like printed circuit chip or some other ambiguous device? Or is it just the sensor itself? Any help would be appreciated. Also, Just in case I have to change the sensors are the 4 sensors the same part? I'm inclined to change them all after all this time, No sense tempting fate!

 

The tool has non-standard, bad, wording. Imagine it with control Chip deleted.

You can look up Jaguar's meaning (free download) and they list all possible causes - though it's likely the (single) sensor.

They're not all the same and as proper ones are not wonderfully cheap I'd change just the one or if you like both sides.

Search will get you what others did.

 

Info for you.

 

P1647

This is the driver side wideband/upstream O2 sensor. More than likely needs to be replaced, but you can check fuses and relays to be sure. Get a good quality part, like Denso. Sensor is driver side, under the coolant expansion tank (will need to be removed or set aside for access). Sensor should be reachable from the top, I used a crows-foot O2 tool. As usual, these can come off sort of easy or be a real bear depending on corrosion. If it comes to that, cat is not super hard to remove (again, depends on corrosion). Plug to the sensor is on top of the transmission, behind the throttle body. A bit of a pain to reach, but nothing extraordinary. If you decide to remove the coolant expansion tank, a turkey baster tool does a great job at minimizing the mess.

Normally, all 4 sensors are heavily monitored by the ECU for emissions purposes so folks normally change these sensors as needed, i.e. with codes. They are not cheap enough in my book to just go ahead and change all 4, and there is no real time saving in doing all 4 at once.

Last option is to decide to do a "hard" reset of the electronics for the purpose of resetting the fuel trims to zero, in the off chance they drifted due to a bad sensor. They will will get back to where they need to be eventually, but resetting might be there quicker. There is a procedure out there showing the need to reset the windows as well as maintaining engine revs at rest and in gear to get a head start on these trims. Not everyone bothers with this last step...

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

Finally removed the sensor. A squirt of PB blaster penetrating oil and a few minutes wait and special tool. The plug, on the other hand, was more of a challenge. Was there some sort of engineering requirement on the design of this model that every single repair be nearly impossible. For instance, The sensor plug is inaccessible. Further, because the plug end of the sensor is clipped to a tab and the wiring harness is plugged into it, you cannot just unplug it ( the release tab is inaccessible) . You have to remove the entire connection from the tab and then unplug. The more I work on this car, the more I curse out the designers!

 

Did that fix the problem?
Oh, and I agree, wait until you to the fuel pump. Might want to put marbles in you mouth so no one can understand what you are saying.

 

yes, I installed the replacement sensor and took a20 mile drive with no MIL. I've read about that fuel pump access and certainly don't look forward to that repair!