My 02 XKR in Aspen Green has about 6 or seven spots as shown in pictures. I've tried rubbing compound and buffing back with no change. I can feel slight roughness at each spot. It seems as if the clear coat is cracked.

First, what would causes this?
Second, how do I repair without complete strip an repaint?

 

Usually clearcoat applied too thickly, or insufficient drying between coats, or the clearcoat/paint/undercoat had cracks in it and paint was reapplied on top or many of a myriad of other reasons having to do with improperly painting it. Also possible since the size scale and location aren't clear is that something has chemically attacked the clearcoat and maybe lower layers (birds, trees, etc).

Unfortunately, the options are 1. Repaint as necessary, 2. Make everything so shiny/reflective that it's hard to see.

I have one with small areas like this (perhaps ancient crappy paint job, but perhaps not original), but wasn't willing to repaint yet. So, I did the usual buffing and applied a ceramic coating. Very shiny now and not so noticable.

 

I have the same problem in two small areas on the quarter panels. These areas were never repainted and are factory original. An auto painter said that it is due to the new waterborne base coats that they had just started using. The techniques were not perfected and the base was not at a proper state of cure before the clear coat was applied. The base must be totally cured or at the right stage of "wetness" before subsequent coats and clear coats or else there is a tension due to different rates of contraction between the layers which sometimes reveals itself immediately or years later. There is an art and science to knowing when to apply subsequent coats sometimes often with different options available to the painter in the same application case. The paint manufacturers often provide different ways of applying their products for painter convenience. Some painters prefer to not work with "wet" layers. Those that do know that it is a very short window for getting it right or wrong. The manufacturer of the vehicle probably must work with wet layers and the difference of a minute or minor thickness variation is all that it takes especially with a waterborne base.

Note that many cars, even very high end, are partially repainted at the factory to fix screw-ups. It is kind of funny to bring my painter friend for a new car pick up and have him point out all of the factory repairs. BTW he respects that the British put a lot of paint on their cars. They keep their luster and can be brought back to shine very well. On the other hand, Mercedes Benz is known for very hard paint. It is extremely durable over very long time periods and impact resistant. Light silver on a Honda is a very thin paint. His favorite thing is that an excellent single stage paint can give an almost unparalleled depth of finish. It is quite an art form, the automotive painting profession.

 

Thanks. My first thought was an out-gasing of previous coat solvents as I have seen similar in production wood finishing if conver speed to fast for weather conditions, but it was typically pin holes. I guess I have some sanding and recoating to do. I have to reclear the front anyhow as it has a lot of stone chips.

Does anyone know the paint types? Urethane, pre-catalyzed, Enamel, Acrylic etc??? I know using the wrong solvent base will craze or crackle.

 

I'll check with my contact and get back to you by late tomorrow. He recleared my nose piece and bonnet without any issues.

 

😁

 

We had excellent compatibility using Standox Urethane Basecoat wherever color was needed, thinned with MSB thinner.

For the Clear Coating used two-part Cromax Chromaclear 7900S which is also a urethane, good for home repairs. This clear can be used for clear coat only repairs, blends and spot repairs.

Note that an activated sealer such as Standox 2K must be used for any repairs requiring basecoat.

 

Thank you.