I am getting gaskets for my timing cover, from what i read Mahle is reliable. On a couple of sites it has the dates starting 2000. I am assuming if it is a 4.0, the 1999 and 2000 should be the same, right?

 

The gasket for the Lincoln LS 3.9 is a perfect match and half the price.

 

The cam cover gaskets are VIN-specific. Be sure to check any listing against your vehicle's VIN for proper fitment.

 

It is the same price for ford and jag, 62 bucks for the MAHLE on RockAuto. I am not doing the cam cover, so it may not be VIN specific for the timing cover. I hope the 1999 and 2000 are the same for the timing cover. All i could find for the 1999 is the Eurospare, which i am not a fan of.

 

The EPC shows them to be the same through to the 4.2L, apart from a supersession of the inner:




Good luck with the harmonic balancer and don't forget a new crank bolt.

You will need to R&R the cam covers?

 

Thanks for the advice, since I have no idea what a Harmonic balancer it, I guess i have some good forum reading ahead.

 

Okay I just looked to see what you are talking about, i think i am going to get lucky. I have the transmission off so I should be able to lock the crank from the back side.

 

If you want to remove the timing cover, you'll need to remove the crankshaft pulley / HB. I guess the fact that you're asking whether a certain timing cover gasket will fit is leading people to think that you intend to remove the timing cover.

Richard

 

When I did my timing chains on my 97 xk8 I borrowed the tool kit from hellcat. I put both sides of cam holders on and the locking piece that goes into the flywheel or torque converter (I forgot which) that helped hold everything together. Then proper socket and half inch drive breaker bar with a cheater pipe(about 16-18” long) and crank pulley/harmonic balancer popped right off. If you go to replace it be aware that earlier models don’t have the cone shaped bearing/spacer/whatchumacallit. I got a new pulley bolt for like 8 or 10 bucks I believe, but I can’t remember exactly where I got it. It came pretreated with thread locker on it. Putting the bolt back on was pretty much the same process with all holders attached, but keep in mind spec is something crazy like 200 something ft/lbs I think(don’t quote me there). I remember I used the cheater pipe and gave it my all, then waited ten minutes and did it again, I didn’t have a torque wrench that went high enough so I gave it the old two grunts and a solid cuss word and called it a day. Haven’t had a problem since

 

I am just saying it will be a synch to lock the crank shaft pully with the transmission out. just secure the back side with one of these tools and I should have no problems (like that ever happens)

Fan Clutch Pulley Holding Tool

z

I would not mind getting the specs on the crank bolt, when you put the word Jaguar in front of it it runs 30 bucks plus 10m shipping for a bolt.

 

As stated in the damper removal/replacement procedure.................

Caution: Do not use JD 216, crankshaft setting peg, to hold the crankshaft
when tightening or loosening the center bolt of the crankshaft.

I remove and replace the damper crank bolt with NO TIMING TOOLS INSTALLED AT ALL.

The chance of bending or breaking the cams/bolt holes or timing segments on the torque converter drive plate are great.

I witnessed the timing segment bent when I worked at the dealer.
A mechanic next to me bent a timing segment and spent two days diagnosing a poor running engine and CAM/CRANK relationship DTC.

He removed the gearbox at other's insistence to look for the bent timing segment.
He promised he did NOT bend it as he did not use the tool to hold the crank. HE LIED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

While you're in there, replace the gasket ring on that large hex pipe plug thing at the top, assuming you haven't already.

 

The oil gallery plugs are known to leak!

 

I replaced the crankshaft seal, which is why i took off the transmission.

is #1 the oil gallery plug?

 

Yes. Jag, in their infinite wisdom, didn't use a crush washer, but a washer with a rubber seal in the inner portion. The rubber gets hard, the darn thing leaks. AFAIK it's a dealer-only item.

 

When you are pulling out the crankshaft pully do you want to put pressure on what I have as the red squiggly lines or the happy face past the threads. i put some pressure on the squiggly lines and it did not budge and I got a bit nervous i may brake something.

 

Full disclosure: I haven't done this on the XK.

Your smiley face looks to be hiding at the bottom of the thread where the crank bolt fits, and the red spaghetti is on the machined end of the crank.You can apply pressure to either, although I'd be tempted to put a socket between the puller and the crank end to avoid any damage to the thread in the crank.

You've done the worst part by getting the old bolt out. The sticking is due to the tapered split collar (between the crank and the inner diameter of the damper) gripping the end of the crank. I'd try applying some pressure, then hitting the puller screw head. Alternatively, some have suggested tapping the inner of the damper back towards the engine to crack the split collar loose.

Note that there's a sealing ring (XR81139) behind the damper in addition to the timing cover crank oil seal. It appears to be an unremarkable (other than the price!) 'O' ring:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...ling-ring.html

Be careful if you're using the two screw holes in the damper to attach the puller. If the bolts are too long, they can hit the timing cover and crack it.

Hope this doesn't come across like a lecture. Good luck - persevere and the damper will come off

 

I just rounded out my second set of bolts trying to get the pully off. I hate to hit the pully to hard, i don't want to dent it.

I almost feels like the 2 hold down bolts and the primary pully bolt are working against each other.

I was not expecting this to be one of the hardest parts.

 

A thought, can you take the timing cover off with the crank damper still on?

 

Unfortunately not.

Richard