With the bolt off, what is holding it to the crankshaft. On the pictures it looks like it is secured to the cover?

 

Did you read TSB 303-10?
The 'SPLIT-CONE' is a tapered 'clamp' that grips the crank snout.
You pull the assembly forward a few millimeters and SMACK it backwards to loosen the tapered clamp feature.

 

Just a thought:- you could clean the thread of the old bolt, then screw it back into the crank snout, leaving about 1/4" or so gap between the bolt flange and the end of the crank. Use the puller against the bolt head, following motorcarman's instructions.

I've attached a copy of the TSB he mentions.

 

I am happy to report it is off.

This video was very helpful. Youtube Modural. The key for me was the button. Using a bolt to insert into the cranksaft with a wide lip to help focus the pressure, and boy was it a lot of pressure. I needed a 24 inch rachet. I also tapped at the Split Cone, i am not sure if that helped, I could not really bang at it with the radiator still on.

I did not realize it, but it looks like the cam covers have to come off to take off the timing front cover. Is that right? Once you take off the cam covers are there any additional seals that need to be discarded and replaced?

 

I think that there is a junction between the timing cover and the crankcase which I remember putting a dab of RTV on when refitting the cam covers so it must be necessary to remove the cam covers. You will need the Silicone RTV plus two cam cover gasket sets if you want to minimise the chance of oil leaks after reassembly.

Richard

 

Glad you got there

Yes, you have to remove both cam covers. There are kits available that contain all the necessary gaskets and seals.

Particularly, change the 'O' rings that seal the VVT actuators, and also the rubber isolators (NCA2575CA) on the cover bolts (you will need 28 of them), as it is they that provide the clamping force on the cover to cylinder head join.

I've attached the JTIS procedure for R&R of the LH cover, the second half of which contains the cover bolt tightening sequence. Go easy on the bolt torque - 9-11Nm.
Note that the procedure shows the earlier 'pair of spectacles' spark plug well seals - on your motor, they should be 4 separate items (AJ87206)

You will also need some high-temp RTV. This thread from Rex may give you some further tips:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3/#post2871623

P.S. Coil cover bolts should be no more than nipped up. 4-6Nm.

 

I have never been this deep into a car before, i have done a lot of things but with the transmission off, the fuel injectors sent in and all this work in the front, this is an adventure. I am fortunate to have enough funds for most any car I want. My wife keeps asking why I keep this one, and I tell her it is a hobby. After spending most days in meeting and on the computer, challenging myself with something I know little about has been one of life's enhancements.

I hope this car will go back together and work again, but it is great trying!

 

I just had the time to look at the new gasket vs the old one, and for anyone reading this post in the future the 2000 and the 1999 are different. The only one I found that works for the 1999 is the Eurospare available at PartsGeek.

I took the first pic off ebay and the second is mine.