Plagued with door/window electrical issues.
Plagued with door/window electrical issues. Here goes: about a month ago my windows started acting on their own, raising either door handle brought the window down to varying degrees. The dash lights indicate that the driver's door is open when it's closed so I can't arm the alarm or lock the car. Sometimes the convertible top would raise or lower half way before reversing course in the other direction. Then the driver's side window stopped working altogether. The passenger side can only be activated by the switch on that side. I've tried all the usual fixes of resetting the windows and replaced the battery. I also replaced the door control module. No go. An ongoing issue for the past year has been no speedometer, ABS, airbag, brake and check engine lights are all on.
I'm hoping someone out there has some info before i continue with the parts roulette.
I'm hoping someone out there has some info before i continue with the parts roulette.
I had the same thing. It was the door switch - door doesn't know its closed. The dash warning is a strong indicator of this.
hey be careful the puddle lights on our years are connected to this, don't let battery
If you see this please tell us about puddle light status.
if this only was 1 door I'd be more convinced, perhaps multi problems?
If puddle light on. Could drain battery causing other crazy issues. Let us know
John
hey be careful the puddle lights on our years are connected to this, don't let battery
If you see this please tell us about puddle light status.
if this only was 1 door I'd be more convinced, perhaps multi problems?
If puddle light on. Could drain battery causing other crazy issues. Let us know
John
Last edited by Johnken; Jun 18, 2020 at 08:44 PM.
Chip,
Sorry to heat all your ongoing woes.
+1 to Mike about checking battery. It also could be the battery cables esp the +ve battery cable connection to the HPP junction box which is known to work loose. The OEM ground battery cable also is known to work loose. Check the crimps.
+1 to John Rev. The door latch microswitches are cheap to replace but hope you have small hands as getting the latch out is a PITA. Rev Sam has a good Youtube video on it.
For the dash speed/ABS/brake warning, I suspect the ABS module or the instrument cluster has gone bad. Maybe just the speed sensors on the wheels but lots of owners have done the ABS module power pin solder fix which is a dealer TSB fix to solve this problem.
Just my 02 cents.... Food for thought.
Sorry to heat all your ongoing woes.
+1 to Mike about checking battery. It also could be the battery cables esp the +ve battery cable connection to the HPP junction box which is known to work loose. The OEM ground battery cable also is known to work loose. Check the crimps.
+1 to John Rev. The door latch microswitches are cheap to replace but hope you have small hands as getting the latch out is a PITA. Rev Sam has a good Youtube video on it.
For the dash speed/ABS/brake warning, I suspect the ABS module or the instrument cluster has gone bad. Maybe just the speed sensors on the wheels but lots of owners have done the ABS module power pin solder fix which is a dealer TSB fix to solve this problem.
Just my 02 cents.... Food for thought.
Alternatively. Disconnect battery. Charge overnight. Reconnect. Try again. Your issues should have disappeared, till your battery acts up again.
Thanks for all the thoughtful replies!
I'll give the cables a check and charge the battery overnight.
Ordered microswitch
Details to follow......
I'll give the cables a check and charge the battery overnight.
Ordered microswitch
Details to follow......
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Having diagnosed a LOT of automotive electrical gremlins, I concur. A poor battery cable GROUND to chassis/frame can cause ALL sorts of mysteries. I'd imagine the red cable connection to the HPP junction box would do likewise.
I've seen it all --- battery GROUND cables bolted on top of fresh paint on a frame. No star washer. Corroded connection from salt/spray. Without a GOOD ground, you might as well call Ghostbusters. And you HAVE to take 'em apart to see, eyeball exams can't catch a layer of white oxide betwen a cable and frame, or battery post and terminal. Had a Sienna with a LOOSE + cable one time.... I got called to the vehicle assembly line that one had stumped so many techs --- not charging properly, would crank SOMETIMES, failed battery load test.... all from a slightly loose battery cable with white oxide on it. It almost got ME too! I'd decided to install a new TOYOTA battery, some $500.... before discovering the loose terminal / oxide.
If you're getting door indications, 95%+ it's the microswitch.
Not enough XK background for me to comment on ABS module pattern failures.
Cheers.
I've seen it all --- battery GROUND cables bolted on top of fresh paint on a frame. No star washer. Corroded connection from salt/spray. Without a GOOD ground, you might as well call Ghostbusters. And you HAVE to take 'em apart to see, eyeball exams can't catch a layer of white oxide betwen a cable and frame, or battery post and terminal. Had a Sienna with a LOOSE + cable one time.... I got called to the vehicle assembly line that one had stumped so many techs --- not charging properly, would crank SOMETIMES, failed battery load test.... all from a slightly loose battery cable with white oxide on it. It almost got ME too! I'd decided to install a new TOYOTA battery, some $500.... before discovering the loose terminal / oxide.
If you're getting door indications, 95%+ it's the microswitch.
Not enough XK background for me to comment on ABS module pattern failures.
Cheers.
Ya need to RENEW that battery cable to frame connection with a wire brush, spinning rough disk, sandpaper, till both sides are shiny metal, bolt it up, then SPRAY with battery terminal protection (red) stuff. Again, visual inspection often fails! Must unbolt and inspect, brush, reassemble TO BE SURE.
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