Hello,
I just found a good leak in my 04 xkr convertible under the hydraulic pump. It's leaking under the pump and all over the cd charger, navigation and whatever electronic unit (computer) is above that. I couldn't take much pictures because of my stupid phone (moto z2), but I have one that shows the rodded metal below one of the leaking hose.

I would like to hire someone who could help me diagnose and fix this, probably need to change hoses (a lot of literature on this forum about this) and/or install a relief valve.

In the meantime what should I do with the pump? I'm obviously not going to open/close the roof. But should I turn the knob on the pump? Is there pressure while driving and leaving the roof closed? If so should I turn clockwise or counter to remove any pressure?

I'm in the LA area and will make pay a fair price for your time. My goal is to find someone who has experience with this which is hard to find in garages. There's the Jaguar dealer option but their prices are insane so...

Please let me know if someone is interested, that would make my day. Thank you very much in advance.

Can see the rodded spot below. Looks like the leak comes from the 2 hoses in the back (against the body). The other pair, in the front closer to me, seem ok. Please, I need the kind of help that is not on PDF or post format )

 

A, there is no pressure until you push the button. Or think of it this way: pump creates pressure so pump needs to be running to create any pressure.

Loosening the petcock on the pump by turning it counterclockwise a few turns releases the fluid pressure to the rams. When loose, even pressing the open Button will not build pressure in the hoses.It will do no harm to open the petcock, and don't forget once you do that you can easily open or close the roof by hand without spewing any fluid. You must loosen it to move the roof manually.

I'm sure everyone knows they have to unlatch the latch in the center top of windshield with the hexagonal tool attached to the pump in the trunk.

Alexander, heres a courtesy comment in case you've never tried that latch by hand. It takes quite a bit of effort, this is normal dont be surprised. I always use a wrench to increase leverage. Oh you'll need a flat blade screwdriver to pry the plastic cap off the hole where you put the tool above the windshield, its tight.

John

 

Thanks John,
I was wondering if somehow fluids would still move in the pipes wether it's manual operation or not. I guess it doesn't when manual huh?
Thanks. That takes care of still being able to drive with the roof down. Although I'm not sure where to push down the rams in question. But not that important anyway.

If you would know of someone who can help me with the job (fixing/replacing) in or around LA, please let me know. I got in touch with Brian here in the forums a couple weeks ago but I think he got fed up with the questions. (I don't blame him, I'm a pain with 2 left hands) ahah. Thank goodness people are patient and understanding here... It was a preventive job back inspection back then. Now it's a repair needed
Thank you for your time. Have a great weekend.

ANYONE OUT THERE TO HELP ME, I'LL PAY FOR THE JOB. I LIVE IN LA. NEED HOSES FIXED AND RELIEF VALVE.
THANK YOU

 

The Pump can be removed from it's perch by a couple of screws,two rubber locating ****, turn sideways and put a wrench on the two connections at the back and see if they are loose or the hose is bad. Loose, easy fix and hose bad, you know where you are and what needs to be done.
A long shoot, might be a cracked container.

 

Totally worth trying. Leak seems to be under they pump so... I don't get it though, what are the **** doing, support the pump? I have the model for 2004 so just to be sure we're talking about the same

Thank you

 

What's the tap position required to do this, all the way turned counterclockwise or the opposite?

 

No tap position, it's not going to leak if the top is tight, or should I say, not suppose too.
The rubber **** at the back are for location. Unsnap the wire plugs before you start rolling it around, just to play safe, as they are very brittle after all these years.

 

And be extremely careful with those connectors- as you say they are very brittle.

 

Ok now I'm completely lost.. Ahaha... I'm still trying to decipher what are the steps after remove the 2 front bolts...

 

What do you mean the top is tight? You meant the golden bolt at the top ?
Thanks

 

Thanks cjd. But I don't understand how can you turn the pump sideway..

 

Slide it toward the front of the car.
It's been a while since I did one and sometimes other things may need to be moved. You can take everything on those shelves off with out too much trouble.
In your case, being a novice, take pictures of how they are before you take apart wire connections and bolts. That's the easy way to protect yourself from holding up a piece and say WTF is this.
Have you tried a Jaguar Club in your area for some help, you need to join.

 

Alexander,

Sorry your picture isn't very clear. As you suspect it's the hoses, it's relatively straightforward to get a few regular tools to see what's happening. I attach a few photos below of my situation. It all started with a green wee patch by my right rear tyre. Don't let the situation get worst as the leaking hydraulic fluid gets every where and the battery earth connection to the body is nearby. My leaking fluid even got to my battery positive junction box.




It may feel daunting tackling this but for the hoses to the rams/cylinders, it's very DIY-able without any special tools needed. You just need a bit of confidence to disassemble the rear seats and rear quarter panel of the car.
I still have to do 1 bad hose (long story as I didn't realise that the right hand hydraulic ram had a special fitting), so I'm planning to do this job very soon.

I attach Gus' excellent write up from his jagrepair.com website. You won't need the section on the overhead latch above the windscreen.

If you need any more help, let us know, and I'll send you pictures as I go along.