The line that runs from the res along the front of the rad and comes back in thru the passenger side of the radiator is leaking. The location of the leak is either at the connection from flexible hose to the steel line. This is again the line by the alternator. The foam insulation around the flex line is saturated.
The fluid level is barely touching the bottom of the dip stick. Are the lines coming off the resevoir under pressure? Does the flexible line connection by the alternator need a special tool to remove? Can both hoses off the resevoir be replaced by me?

After looking at JPLV it appears I need the P/S cooler tube and the resovior hose.

If all this is low pressure, aside from the mess, I would think this would be doable. And as far as air in the line would you not just do as on other cars, work the steering left to right and let the bubbles filter thru the res?

Golly I love working on this in the snow!

 

It appears after talking to the jag mechanic this morning that the p/s cooler tube that connects to the return line connection was made to only go together. Therefore if I choose to replace the cooler tube I will need to also purchase the return line. But I think I will go to my local Parker store and see if they can make me up a section of line that I can splice in to the cooler line at the rupture and clamp off. I would sure be easier, especially since it is on the low pressure side.

But I still need to know the proceedure for bleeding the system after I make the repair.

 

B o o !

 

See if this helps.

Manual Fill - System Filling and Bleeding
Air in the fluid can temporarily result in PAS pump noise, but this will not cause damage. The time allowances mentioned in the above procedures are to reduce the possibility of a customer collecting a vehicle while still subject to excessive pump noise. Fill the reservoir to the bottom of the filler neck. Wait for any air to escape and top up again. Without the engine running, turn from lock to lock two or three times, topping up to the maximum level on the dip reservoir stick. Start the engine and immediately top up as air is vented. With the engine idling, turn lock to lock two or three times, topping up to the maximum level on the reservoir dip stick. When no further change of fluid level occurs, run the engine for twenty minutes to vent any remaining air. If possible, allow the vehicle to stand for thirty minutes before restarting the engine to vent any further air.

 

I knew it would be you!

Thank you for the procedure.

 

I replaced a power steering pump on one of my 4Runners and I had no idea on what and or why on the how to do it (if that makes any sense). It ended up costing me what I would have paid to have it done by someone other than me.

Good Luck!

 

I have cut many of those FITTINGS off when they leak( and you use a fuel line disconnect tool to remove), and slide the rubber hose over the metal pipe and clamp with 2 hose clamps. works great and is cheap and last years

 

I have a set of the fuel filter release tools. neat and handy little devils they are. I did notice this weekend that the fiting looked as if something like that would work. Thank you for clarifying this. I just picked up some PS line from Car Quest. I'm going to cut off the factory fittings and just clamp the new line in its place. I'm hoping the line from the res to the cooling line is 3/8" . Because I did not buy anything large than 3/8" id line. At least when I calibrated the line on both ends of the cooling tube they were indeed 3/8" o.d.

The plan is to replace the line from pump to res, splice new line from res to cooling tube, splice line from cooling tube to steel line to the rack.

That is this weekends plan.

Thank you for the input.

If I remember I'll take some pic's.

PS: The owners manual calls for dexronIII. Upon looking for DexIII all I could find was dex IV and higher. So I opted for a Pennzoil Dexron IV.
The rear label stated was compatable for P/S systems requiring dexron III. This should be good right?

 

Success after 6 hours. 2 hours of that was wasted looking for a replacement "o" ring to put int the factory quick connect fitting. Turns out I reall did not want to use this again because that is where the leak began.

Most of the time was involved in getting the factory compression clamp off the p/s hose from the res to the pump. I'm sure glad I sprung for the clamp tool when I did the radiator hoses.

I drained and removed the res completely from the car.

Next was to remove the cooling tube from the car. You need to remove the air box to get to this next connection. I used the 3/8 fuel filter tool and the factory connection came right apart.

Then I removed the isolation sleaves from the cooling tubes so I could get the cooling tube of the clamps. Then pull the whole assembly out from under the nose, its wide open underneath.

Next I took a dremil to cut away the factory crimp clamps and removed the old hoses and insulation.

Cut and measure the new line and install new insulation. I used 1/2" pipe insulation that you would use on water pipes.

The next problem was to stretch the new 3/8 p/s hose over the 7/16 nipple on the res. I ended up using about 10 16penny finishing nails and a heat gun. I packed the hose with nails then added some heat, more nails, more heat, more nails, more heat. Quickly remove nails and push on to the res.

Then I threaded both lines thru the side of the radiator . The driver side had the res already connected.

Reinstall the cooling tube with insulatores back in the holding clamps.

Hose clamp the new lines to both ends of the cooling tube. I did this from above also plenty of room to tighten the breeze clamps.

The last connection was of my own design. Since the ferril on the factory line os not flaired you cannot push the 3/8 p/s hose over it. And just clamping it may not hold it either I came up with this as a clamp
Cut a 1" long piece of 3/8 ps line and them split it so you can wrap it around the lower side of the ferril on the steel pipe from the rack. Then cut a 2" peice of 5/8" heater hose to sleave over the end of the steel line and the piece of 3/8" line you just installed. Then insert the 3/8" p/s line from the cooling tube in to the 5/8" heater hose and around the end of the steel line from the rack. Put a two clamps on the heater hose, one on either side of the ferril. The bottom clamp will hold it in place and the upper clamp will seal the connection.

Refill check, remove air, check for leaks. Keep eye on clamps when weather begins to warm up.

The camera is now available and Ill post pics later.

 

Kudos to you!

 

Special thank you to Brutel and Gus for their help.

PS to Brutel. The Jag tech at my dealership was under the impression that the factory connection from the hose to the lowpressure metal line was not removable. He advised me that I would have to buy the metal line from the rack as well. But your tip ended up saving me money and a whole lot of time not having to mess with any rack connections. The Monday after my fix I went back to the dealer and told him that it was not necessary to get the low pressure rack line and that the connection could indeed come apart using the 3/8" fuel line fitting release tool thingy. I hope I did not give away your trade secret but every time I share info with the tech's and service writer on my car always seems to come back to me in a good way. You know "pay it forward".

 

Thanks for the apprieciation, this forum is a very small populace of jaguar owners out there. I learn from here and try to help others too. We do the same thing where i work, no one is a premadonna and none of us know it all. We constantly are working with each other to fix cars and share info of what works and what doesnt

 

I could not have said it better, Brutal you hit the mark. It is all about helping each other! However, I do like to aggravate the both of you every chance I get

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...p?albumid=1282

I put the pictures in an album, but the sequence is bass ackwards. Any one feel free to fix so that others may understand.

After reading this entire thread there should be no reason for anyone not to attempt this repair. Really easy with the right tools. Total cost: $56.00 (+-).

Jaguar P/S suction hose, and 6' of Gates premium P/S line and 2 #4 clamps all from Car Quest $49.82. One quart of Pennzoil dexron III $3.75 and 1 foot of premium heater hose(free because the clerk did not want to look up the sku#) from Pep Boys. Pipe insulation i had some left over but its about $2.00. Labor, well lets just say I work pretty cheep $0.00. Consultation service provided by this forum, P R I C L E S S!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks again guys.

Opps I forgot shop supplies and environmental charges!

 

P/Steering only has high pressures generated in the pump and rack, (plus connecting line), not the reservoir lines.

 

I repaired my leaking line connection by replacing the o-rings, matched them up at NAPA. We'll see how long it lasts. The leak caused deteriation of the right stabilizer bar rubber. I had to order a replacement from dealer. That took care of the front end clunk. This connection will come apart with Ford type line tools. Is there a source of polyurthane stabalizer bushings?

 

Thomasso, sounds EXACTLy like what happend to mine here.

 

I got a new o ring but decided against it, since it failed before. Besides I would have to drain the system should it fail again. How did you get the O ring off? Did you not have to drain down the system in order to get the O ring out?

 

Thanks Daddyo007 for this very informative post. I am gathering my tools right now to go change the leaking hose in my P/S system, wish me luck!

 

Thanks to the nicely detailed instructions in this post, the repair went off without a hitch!

Now I just have to clean the power steering fluid spots off of my driveway....