Q about convertible motor replacement and green shower
I'm looking at a 2004 XK8. The owner tells me that the motor for the convertible top was replaced about a year and a half ago because it wasn't latching properly. She had never heard of the issue with the hydraulic fluid leaking at the front latches. I haven't seen the dealer receipt for the repair but was wondering if anyone thinks that IF this repair included replacement of hoses to the front latch, it might stave off the "green shower" or if I would still need to have work done to prevent a future leak. Thanks!
Well, IF the hoses were in fact replaced that would at least re-start the clock on hose life, though the service life of the hoses seems to vary widely. (Watch out for a partial hose replacement ... a kit Jaguar offered for a time that was pretty much useless.)
New hoses or old, you will want to add some protection. My own preference is the use of a resistor in the pump's voltage supply, but I'm going to go out on a limb and guess you might also hear from someone who prefers a different solution.
Good luck.
New hoses or old, you will want to add some protection. My own preference is the use of a resistor in the pump's voltage supply, but I'm going to go out on a limb and guess you might also hear from someone who prefers a different solution.
Good luck.
Well, IF the hoses were in fact replaced that would at least re-start the clock on hose life, though the service life of the hoses seems to vary widely. (Watch out for a partial hose replacement ... a kit Jaguar offered for a time that was pretty much useless.)
New hoses or old, you will want to add some protection. My own preference is the use of a resistor in the pump's voltage supply, but I'm going to go out on a limb and guess you might also hear from someone who prefers a different solution.
Good luck.
New hoses or old, you will want to add some protection. My own preference is the use of a resistor in the pump's voltage supply, but I'm going to go out on a limb and guess you might also hear from someone who prefers a different solution.
Good luck.
Doug
Before we start into another never ending discussion it's might be good to advise the OP that there are two methods to try and avoid the chance of hose failure, neither is a guaranteed solution, one is an electrical resistor and the other a mechanical relief valve.
There are volumes of discussion already on the forum on the merits and otherwise of both if you want to research.
There are volumes of discussion already on the forum on the merits and otherwise of both if you want to research.
you really have been traumatised by this.
I hate to see a thoroughly decent chap affected in this way.
I believe there are three alternatives
1. Start a new ranting thread, no moderation and never visit it
2. Have extensive de-conditioning therapy which would probably involve having to read increasingly long posts about resistors and valves
3. Have a single malt (without haggis) whenever the subject crops up.
I would advise 3., particularly as said amber liquid would have to be sponsored by JF since you clearly have GSIPTSD (green shower induced post traumatic stress disorder).
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Norri,
I don't fully understand the structure of JF but Jim seems also to be a thoroughly decent sort - how could he possibly let a fellow Scot suffer in this way ?
I estimate the worst case would be 2 bottles a night. You might find this a challenge but I'm sure you can rise to it.
If you need help I am partial to the Distiller's version of Laguvalin and would be prepared to help with your treatment.
All the best.
I don't fully understand the structure of JF but Jim seems also to be a thoroughly decent sort - how could he possibly let a fellow Scot suffer in this way ?
I estimate the worst case would be 2 bottles a night. You might find this a challenge but I'm sure you can rise to it.
If you need help I am partial to the Distiller's version of Laguvalin and would be prepared to help with your treatment.
All the best.
Or have a locked FAQ post that boils down everything we know about both systems such as cost, installation, measurements of actual pressure drop achieved (someone here at sometime did some pretty definitive pressure measurements with resistor, valve, engine running, engine not running, ad nauseum). So have a single FAQ post that has everything (minus the editorial comments), lock it, and be done.
Doug
Doug
Or have a locked FAQ post that boils down everything we know about both systems such as cost, installation, measurements of actual pressure drop achieved (someone here at sometime did some pretty definitive pressure measurements with resistor, valve, engine running, engine not running, ad nauseum). So have a single FAQ post that has everything (minus the editorial comments), lock it, and be done.
Doug
Doug
Information on voltage reduction is found on my page here ... along with a brief discussion of testing standards such as:
ISO 6803: Rubber or plastics hoses and hose assemblies — Hydraulic-pressure impulse testing.
Such standards recognize the role of peak pressure and rate of pressure rise, temperature, etc. as contributors to failure of plastic hose assemblies.
ISO 6803: Rubber or plastics hoses and hose assemblies — Hydraulic-pressure impulse testing.
Such standards recognize the role of peak pressure and rate of pressure rise, temperature, etc. as contributors to failure of plastic hose assemblies.
Will this ever end? You want information on the hydraulic system with test results go to www.jagrepair.com
Oh but wait! There's also my extremely easy, lazy-man, possibly totally ineffective method of only operating the top when the engine is not running, in hopes that the pump will put out slightly less 'juice' (pressure), so to speak, and stress the lines & connections less. I'm using this for now, since I have no idea if my lines were ever replaced, and I'm extremely lazy. Everybody please wish me luck
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