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I would say it is #4 but not sure if it is the one near the shims or the one near the wheel... it seems that it should be easy to determine with the wheel up in the air.
Not familiar with MOT procedures but given the chance, I would have asked which or what parts was identified that was causing the problem? Could have been bearing allowing the shaft to move. I agree the indications point to a worn U-Joint. Just grasp the shaft and move it in same plane as the solid cross pieces of joint. Good u-joints have no slack movement either way.
Last edited by kstevusa; Aug 30, 2022 at 03:45 PM.
As you have to take the shaft out, why not do both, the stress of one giving vibration surely puts strain on the other end.
I question the tire having play being the end result of a bad U joint, more likely the wheel bearing.
The output shaft bearing in the diff can get worn and cause excessive play at the wheel.
The large 'circlip' can be removed and the bearing replaced if it is loose/worn.
Leave the shims in place.
It is not possible for the wheel to move up and down due to a worn cross joint. the wheel is held by the bearing . It could/will cause vibration and a knock on engagement . Checking the wheel bearing is done by lifting the rear wheel and trying to rock the wheel in both H and V planes.
It is not possible for the wheel to move up and down due to a worn cross joint.
I believe it is possible. Worn UJ bearings will enable play at the wheel in the vertical plane when pivoted at the hub-to-wishbone bearing. See schematic from e-type (same principle).
Any slop in the UJs (or diff bearings) will allow the length of the driveshaft to vary. Since it's the top link in the suspension geometry, that would indeed allow the hub carrier to rotate around the lower fulcrum bolt.
Any slop in the bearing will manifest at the wheel, and here the condition of the drive shaft is immaterial since as noted, it doesn't offer any support to the bearing.
Might be difficult to distinguish by wobbling the wheel about, but gentle use of a prybar or similar should help determine where the play is?
Q.E.D.
Last edited by michaelh; Aug 31, 2022 at 03:02 AM.
Reason: spelling, sigh...
I have a tiny play in my UJ says the MOT man.
As the shaft does not have any splines so is fixed length then play in the UJs would show as in and out movement at the top of the wheel only while play in the bearings would show as play top to bottom and side to side.
Many thanks to all. Got the car up on the ramp and no wheel left to right play just top to bottom. On inspection the both UJ's on the inside (beside the diff) have play more so on one side than the other. The mechanic said, it is a shame they don't have grease nipples (but due to this wonderful forum and picture surfing for new ones I was able to say they did . We applied grease (likely never done in 60K) and the play was less but still there, so next shot is to try thicker grease but my real ask is now this.
What has to be slackened/removed at the inside of the wheel to get the half shaft out and given any bolts will have been in 20 years, any advice please.
Found this where it was done on the car - Is this smart or asking for trouble? I finally ended up doing the U-joint itself on the car, with a Ball Joint press kit from Harbor Freight and a hub puller I got on e-bay. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...6/#post1918312
Notes: Camber Shims are installed between the inner ends of the Half-Shaft and the Differential Flange.
11/16" Imperial for crimped nuts
The nuts on the inner end are the only ones on the car that are imperial ..I think its 5/8 or 11/!6. They are facking tight .
You should be able to change the inner ones on the car. To get the shaft out you remove the nut in the centre of the hub and push the shaft inwards.
Rear Drive shaft joint excessively worn resulting in up and down movement at wheel !
. We applied grease (likely never done in 60K) and the play was less but still there, so next shot is to try thicker grease but my real ask is now this.