Rear parking brake cables
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Rear parking brake cables
My car only just scraped through its MOT parking brake test last year, I suspect corroded cables which are starting to bind. We will see on further inspection. Anyway, if anyone has changed these before and has and wise works of wisdom or pics, I would appreciate some tips.
The workshop manual of course makes it looks easy, but on old corroded cables, real life will be different.
I will probably tackle the job once the weather warms up a bit as its a bit cold at the moment.
The workshop manual of course makes it looks easy, but on old corroded cables, real life will be different.
I will probably tackle the job once the weather warms up a bit as its a bit cold at the moment.
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I was going to do a write up on this job but I found this great "rear wheel bearing pdf" by chilliphilly which also covers the job so wont bother.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...nstall-pdf.pdf
I did have one issue though, I couldn't get the rear rotors to come off, I am pretty sure they have never been off the car and were rusted on. My biggest hammer made no difference and since I planned to replace them, I took the angle grinder to them. So this is a quick and dirty solution to stuck rotors.
Small segment cut off.
Chisel hammered in.
Job done.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...nstall-pdf.pdf
I did have one issue though, I couldn't get the rear rotors to come off, I am pretty sure they have never been off the car and were rusted on. My biggest hammer made no difference and since I planned to replace them, I took the angle grinder to them. So this is a quick and dirty solution to stuck rotors.
Small segment cut off.
Chisel hammered in.
Job done.
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From: on the road in NE Oklahoma
You can very easily remove drums and disc rotors that have corroded to the studs by liberally spraying Freeze-Off (CRC brand) at the base of the studs and LIGHTLY tapping sideways on them.
but that eliminates the fun of destroying parts, doesn't it ??
Z.
but that eliminates the fun of destroying parts, doesn't it ??
Z.
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However when I stripped the parts off I found that the cables were moving freely and that the shoes were completely worn. My suspicion is that Mrs RD has at some point applied the handbrake and then driven off with it applied or one or more of the previous owners has done likewise.
Lucky for me I did not buy new cables ahead of time as they are rather expensive.
New shoes, spring kit, discs and pads came to a total of £78 from Autodoc, my new favorite parts supplier.
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and rust as we do here in the UK. I have been known to "easily remove" drums with a gas axe and a 14 lb sledge hammer. 
On a more serious note, the rear discs are often difficult to remove because the handbrake shoes have not been backed off sufficiently.
Graham
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I must assume Oklahoma doesn't get as much and rust as we do here in the UK. I have been known to "easily remove" drums with a gas axe and a 14 lb sledge hammer.
On a more serious note, the rear discs are often difficult to remove because the handbrake shoes have not been backed off sufficiently.
Graham
and rust as we do here in the UK. I have been known to "easily remove" drums with a gas axe and a 14 lb sledge hammer. On a more serious note, the rear discs are often difficult to remove because the handbrake shoes have not been backed off sufficiently.
Graham
Z
re the weather, I'm restricted to the house today. We had an ice storm overnight and all the doors are frozen shut with about 3 inches of ice covering everything in sight.
yes, plenty of rust here to deal with if one leaves their machinery unprotected, or doesn't take care to wash off the salted sand used occasionally. When I lived on the beach in south Texas, I'd wash off the undercarriage twice a week and never had the rust worm invasion. Without a strict regimen of cleaning and protection, rust wins every time.
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