I've just ordered bushes, ball joints and shock mounts for the front of my XK8 for a complete overhaul. The manual shows all the individual replacement procedures for each component, but is there a recommended order that will make things easier, or do I just strip out everything in one hit?

Also, I will be getting a wheel alignment after completion but are there any other adjustments needed when doing a complete replacement of the suspension bushes?

Phil
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2019 E Pace D180 SE
1997 XK8 convertible

 

Any order will do. You are wise to do them all at one with the exception of not knowing which individual item made the most improvement. I had the whole thing apart to allow for better cleaning before reassembly. It really does matter if you refresh them all but I'm a little OCD and like answers. Make note of the shims in the top control arm and put them back as they are now. The diagram for proper placement is on this forum somewhere. TM

 

It's all reasonably straightforward other than the lower arm ball joint. It's easy enough to get the old one out, but pressing the new one in is a bear due to the shape of the arm.

If you're really lucky, you may still have the early lower bushings with the nylon casings rather than the steel of the replacements, but this is unlikely. Note that the R&R procedure in JTIS and the W/S manual only deals with this type of bushing: I've attached a TSB that shows the correct procedure. Be careful not to get front & rear mixed up:- they look very similar. A close relative of mine very nearly fitted one in the wrong location...

Put the new balljoints and lower bushes in the freezer for a day or so before you press them. Use antiseize on the lower arm bolt shanks and, particularly, the upper pivot bolt on reassembly.

 

Thanks for the tips Michael. I'm sure I'll have researched the heck out of this job by the time I get to it. My VIN is earlier than the standard steel lined bush, but they may well have been changed at some time, so the TSB may well be useful.

 

I've finally started the work on the front suspension. So far, I've removed one of the shock assemblies, and yes, the strut mount was completely collapsed and disintegrated. The bottom shock bush looks like it is made of butter, so a timely piece of work, I would say. The top and bottom arm bushes actually seem to be in reasonable condition, but I was able to detect fore and aft movement on the lower arm. I guess this movement is not normal?
I have been following the manual, and disconnected the abs sensor connectors but I noticed that there is no mention of extra ground wires between the abs sensor bolt and the wheel arch structure. Is this cable a standard fitting, does anyone know?
Tomorrow, I will progress to removing the top and bottom arms to replace ball joints and bushings. I note that the manual says to lower the steering rack to get the rear bolts of the lower arms out. Is this actually necessary, or are there other ways to do this without disturbing the steering rack? My immediate thought was that the engineers could have put the bolt in from the other direction, but I may be missing the real reason why.
So far, so good. Everything has unbolted, slipped out and generally behaved as per the manual, which is pretty remarkable for a 25 year old car.

 

you do not have to lower the entire steering rack - just disconnect/drop the arms. If replacing lower ball joint - removal is not too bad - reinstallation is a pain in the *** due to the angled end of the arm

 

Phil, Don't forget to replace sway bar bushes too. Makes a huge difference IMO
John

Edit - I meant sway bar links. The 2 bushings? Not such a noticeable difference.

 

Thanks for that. It does sound like an easier path.
Phil

 

Thanks John
Yes, I have new links ready to go on. I have bushes too, but access doesn't look too easy! Always up for a challenge though. That's why I bought an XK8, I suppose?
​​​
Cheers
Phil

 

Phil, search on here for heads up type instructions about installing the 2 sway bar bushes in front of radiator. Its been years since I last did it. But! I remember one small point about something made it 1000x easier. Something like wheels weighted unweighted, or whether the link should or shouldn't be attached.

Worth spending a minute or 2 on a search mate.

Phil, found it for you: see post #7

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...y+bar+bushings
John

 

I've spent the last two days stripping out one side and replacing ball joints and bushes. Top shock mount and lower bush has been replaced on one strut.
Thanks to you amazing chaps, everything has gone really well. Just the ball joint to press in on the rear lower arm. What were the Jag engineers thinking when they designed that! I'm going to fabricate a holding block out of timber to keep the ball joint level under the press.

I worked out a slightly more successful method for pressing out the steel lined lower arm bushes. The Technical bulletin suggested cutting a couple of slices off the flange, but there is so little of the arm to rest on the press blocks that it kept slipping under pressure. What I did was to use a chisel to lift the flange away from the arm then hacksaw the entire flange off. Yes. there were a few marks on the arm from the saw, but it allowed me to fully support the arm and press out the remaining bush. All this has been achieved with a 10 ton press from a cheap tool house.
Tomorrow is reassembly, then on to the other side.

 

This worked really well. By squashing the steering rack gaiters, I was able to remove the rear bolt easily. I had to drop the cruciform bracing a few centimetres at the front to get the front bolt out, but someone had ground off part of the bolt flange, which improved the clearance.

I used the freeze/ heat method to replace the lower ball joint. The ball joint was frozen overnight, and using a blow torch I was able to get the arm up around 200 degrees Celsius. I wouldn't say it dropped in, but using a press fitting tube and a BFH, I was able to knock the ball joint all the way in.
One side is now complete! Yay!

 

Sounds like you are getting on just fine

Go a little easy with the blowtorch as the lower arms are forged items (or so I have read) - I'm not sure if they're heat-treated or not.

The separate ground wire you mention is also present on my car.

 

Here's my very bodgy rear arm fixture for hammering in the ball joint. Not pretty, but it worked!

 

All done! What a different driving experience! Lighter steering, no clunks or rattles and no tracking over poor road surfaces. A totally worthwhile exercise!
Just need to get an alignment and onto the open road.

 

Good Deal!! Yes, it makes quite a difference. Many have expressed concern with repairing these cars. IT'S A CAR!!! Things will wear and things will need fixing with age. We all do, LOL. It's a learning experience and you are no closer to being one with your ride. Glad it worked out for you. TM