Evening guys, had a late start today as it was raining this morning but dried up about 12.30hrs, so I got stuck in at 13.00hrs.
1st job was to get the rocker cover off the drivers side bank, was quite a difficult space wise but simple in operation.

So the dreaded tensioners have NOT been changed unfortunately, but the good news is the condition of the motor looks good to me. The underside of the rocker cover showed the gasket had been compressed over time to the degree that some small amount of oil had leaked out in a few places but it was minimal, there were traces of oil around the base of the spark plugs also, which are due to be changed. I have cleaned up the ones pictured in case of emergencies ( not shown cleaned up ).
Now next fine day is to turn the motor to get the cam on line as you can see in the pic it is very tight. Should be able to switch ignition on and slip it into neutral and then turn the motor by the nut on the end of the pulley, or is there a better way?
Cheers,
Artyh

 

No need for neutral- just turn the main pulley with a socket and extension bar, making sure to turn it in the normal engine rotation direction.

 

Thanks for the quick reply, I was not sure it would turn while in park, will give it a go, weather supposed to be good tomorrow.
Cheers,
Arty.

 

Your engine looks nice and clean. Mine had alot of varnish on all the parts. I may be the only person clumsy enough to do this, but while I was loosening the cam sprocket, I slipped and broke the VVT solenoid (sticking up in front of the sprockets and tensioner). It comes right out after unbolting it, so if you feel that it may be in the way, just take it out. Okay, the rest of you can stop laughing now. It was actually pre-beer. Maybe that was the problem.

 

Looking good so far Arty and well worth doing now you have found the old tensioners.

 

Mike66- I did the EXACT same thing- broke the plug part. It's working ok so far, but on the list of to dos.

 

Arty,

Are you performing this surgery outdoors in the wilds of Northumberland?

Graham

 

Have you had local dealer check your VIN to see if their system suggested you had the new tensioners?

Curious how accurate their computer was vs reality of your engine.... Mine is a late 2002 and they said I have the updated ones but I never had it actually cchecked...

 

Unfortunately I am Graham, I got the left side bank spark plugs out today as I had another appointment in Morpeth so was short on time.
In all I found four of the plugs were not screwed in tight. Two on each bank, I thought stripped threads but thankfully not the case. Also I found one today closest to the bulkhead, had oil up to the flat heads and the one next to it had brown staining on the insulator. I am hoping the gaskets were just past their best with regards to the oil, and it will be sorted out when the tensioners are changed.
Could not move the crank today as I did not have a spanner or socket big enough for the job, anyone any idea what size it is and should it turn easily with the plugs out?
Would it be easier with the Serpentine belt removed?
Thanks again,
Arty

 

Just did another search on the NGK web site and it looks like the plugs which were in the car when I bought it were not the correct ones, they are/were NGK IFR5N10 - stock # 7866 which are iridium not Platinum like the correct ones I have just bought NGK PFR5G-13E - stock# 2761.
As the car performed well engine wise coming back from South of London last year I cannot think it will have come to any harm, or is there cause for some concern? He started up first crack of the whip when asked a few days ago and no codes to indicate anything of note.
Any comments are welcome, and do you like his overcoat? It is for my XJS and came with it on purchase, it fits T.B.1 like a glove.


Cheers,
Arty

 

24mm. No need to remove belt.

 

So I see from the photo. Unfortunately you could be rained off again over the next few days.

If the circular rubber seals in the cam cover are past their best, you will get oil in the plug holes and brown staining on the plug insulator. Nothing to worry about with the work you have planned.

The engine should certainly turn over easily (always in the correct direction of rotation and never backwards) with the plugs out and removing the serpentine belt will make it a little easier.

Graham

 

Some of the other pully bolts may be smaller; getting a wrench on those should do the job now that the plugs are out.

 

Paul, Graham and Mike, thanks for the advice. I will try and turn the cam using a smaller pulley as Mike suggests, if that does not work the belt will be removed and Ill try that way if I can get a 24mm socket. I need a new belt as a matter of course so it is part of the planed maintenance.
Thanks again for the advice its much appreciated.
Cheers,
Arty

 

Arty, when you get the old tensioners out, make sure you have a good look at them and check for cracks. I replaced mine just after I bought my XKR and when I looked at them I frightened myself silly They were so badly cracked on the base that I couldn't understand how they hadn't failed. Just bloody grateful that they held on until I got in there with the new ones.
Whenever I talk to fellow XK drivers I always mention the tensioner problem on the 4.0 models and it is surprising how many owners are unaware of the problem and / or fairly disinterested as well.
Andy

 

Hi Andy, I will take pics when I get the old ones out, however it is blowing a gale out there today and it looks like rain to follow, so don't think I'll get much done today.
I had planed on moving the pulley today to take the weight off the cam shafts but that looks doubtful now.
By the way guys, do both exhaust cams have to be zip tied at the same time and when the job is finished, then removed? Just wondering, going to do it like this anyway, unless advised against.
I have to ask this question as its never occurred to me before, what happens if you turn the engine the wrong way in the condition mine is in, I mean anti clockwise from the drivers seat?
No I have not done that, just in case anyone asks.
Cheers,
Arty

 

I was told it risks jumping the chain on the sprockets because tensioners are designed to apply load with the chain moving in one direction only.

Never questioned this or been tempted to put the theory to the test so it could be a myth.

Graham

 

I have heard the correct rotation advice often in respect of different engines, bikes & cars, I'm not sure what the problem would be if you went backwards, obviously for setting timing etc you would want to be going forward to eliminate the various backlash clearances.

 

That's a really clean engine. How many miles and what oil have you been using?

For positioning the engine, I usually just "blip" the key after removing the fuel injection fuse. The tension of the valve springs tends to encourage the engine to stop at the point of least resistance and that is exactly where you want it. It usually only takes a couple of tries.

 

I suspect that it has something to do with the tensioners being on the "coast" side of the belts or chains. If you go backwards, they become the driven side of the arrangement and then the intended timing goes out of whack with the potential to kiss the valves.