Removing side rub strips on a black XK8
#1
Removing side rub strips on a black XK8
Labor Day weekend coming up so I want to tackle this project of removing the dated side rub strips. Ive read several threads on this but none were on a black cat, which i find less forgiving with these kind of things. I tested one small piece and used rubbing compound but seem to still have a shadow line on the lower area where the piece was. The car's never been repainted so I know it's not a paint line.
Does anyone have any suggestion on exactly what to use to polish out any evidence they were there? I'm guessing it may be due to hard water drying in that area over the years.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Does anyone have any suggestion on exactly what to use to polish out any evidence they were there? I'm guessing it may be due to hard water drying in that area over the years.
Thanks in advance for any help.
#2
If you think it's crud, a clay bar might help.
I'd guess you will end up using some superfine paper and water to wet sand the area and then compounding it. A medium cut compound and then a fine polish to get the mirror finish.
If you've not done it before, wet sanding can be scary, but just go slow and use lots of water. You will be able to tell with the medium compound whether you got the line out, so you can go back and forth with the wet sanding and that to check progress.
The compound will leave fine scratches though, so it will most likely need the fine polish when all is done.
I'd guess you will end up using some superfine paper and water to wet sand the area and then compounding it. A medium cut compound and then a fine polish to get the mirror finish.
If you've not done it before, wet sanding can be scary, but just go slow and use lots of water. You will be able to tell with the medium compound whether you got the line out, so you can go back and forth with the wet sanding and that to check progress.
The compound will leave fine scratches though, so it will most likely need the fine polish when all is done.
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philhef (08-29-2013)
#3
If you think it's crud, a clay bar might help.
I'd guess you will end up using some superfine paper and water to wet sand the area and then compounding it. A medium cut compound and then a fine polish to get the mirror finish.
If you've not done it before, wet sanding can be scary, but just go slow and use lots of water. You will be able to tell with the medium compound whether you got the line out, so you can go back and forth with the wet sanding and that to check progress.
The compound will leave fine scratches though, so it will most likely need the fine polish when all is done.
I'd guess you will end up using some superfine paper and water to wet sand the area and then compounding it. A medium cut compound and then a fine polish to get the mirror finish.
If you've not done it before, wet sanding can be scary, but just go slow and use lots of water. You will be able to tell with the medium compound whether you got the line out, so you can go back and forth with the wet sanding and that to check progress.
The compound will leave fine scratches though, so it will most likely need the fine polish when all is done.
I have used wet sanding in the past but was hoping there may be an easier option.
It's actually going in to my detail shop that got the swirll marks out of a BMW X6 I had. I don't know what he does but they totally disappeared. Not just a topical treatment. Must be a super fine polish. Having him do it after I get all of this done.
I'll get a clay bar, I assume from any auto shop?
#5
#6
Phil
I'm guessing that if you have a fine line that rubbing compound won't take off it may have been touched up. Your detail shop will be able to tell you. Most hard water lines would buff off, many body shops will paint to the bottom of the door edge guard. I would guess if it was hard water residue the top and sides would also have a line. I was in the autobody business back in the eighties and never saw any hard water lines like your talking about. Good Luck and let us know how it turns out.
I'm guessing that if you have a fine line that rubbing compound won't take off it may have been touched up. Your detail shop will be able to tell you. Most hard water lines would buff off, many body shops will paint to the bottom of the door edge guard. I would guess if it was hard water residue the top and sides would also have a line. I was in the autobody business back in the eighties and never saw any hard water lines like your talking about. Good Luck and let us know how it turns out.
#7
Phil
I'm guessing that if you have a fine line that rubbing compound won't take off it may have been touched up. Your detail shop will be able to tell you. Most hard water lines would buff off, many body shops will paint to the bottom of the door edge guard. I would guess if it was hard water residue the top and sides would also have a line. I was in the autobody business back in the eighties and never saw any hard water lines like your talking about. Good Luck and let us know how it turns out.
I'm guessing that if you have a fine line that rubbing compound won't take off it may have been touched up. Your detail shop will be able to tell you. Most hard water lines would buff off, many body shops will paint to the bottom of the door edge guard. I would guess if it was hard water residue the top and sides would also have a line. I was in the autobody business back in the eighties and never saw any hard water lines like your talking about. Good Luck and let us know how it turns out.
The only areas that show evidence of repaint are the nose and bonnet/hood. There's not a ridge like a paint line but more of an image where the strip was. Like a halo. But this could be that I just haven't completed the buffing/polishing.
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#8
It'll probably still show, even certain pants because of fading would show, but black is also the easiest to match. With the clear coats blending is easier. If you just took off the front strip on the fender, I would take it to the detail shop and let them work with the one spot. If they can't smooth it out reapply the strip. In my opinion the car looks better and cleaner without them.
#12
I'm actually using something called tiger tail jewelry wire. It's a fine strong wire with a poly coating on it. It won't scratch but has more strength than fishing line.
Actually stopping by my detail guy in the morning to let him see the section I took off. If he doesn't feel comfortable, I'll leave the stripe till next year when I get it re painted.
#13
Ok! I officially hate everyone!! That was the biggest pain in the !!!
Good thing I'm having a deep compound and polish done next week!! I also removed the good humps, rear spoiler and leaper. I'm seeing it differently now. I also swapped out the rear chrome plinth for an earlier black one with no jaguar lettering. I'm going to put the new XJ logo on the boot lid aka F type. Swapping out the red side leapers for my old XF vents, modified,.
Oh, and FYI, goo be gone damages powder coated wheels. I used spray and not they're botched. If they can't be buffed, I'm going to have them painted in a titanium finish.
Good thing I'm having a deep compound and polish done next week!! I also removed the good humps, rear spoiler and leaper. I'm seeing it differently now. I also swapped out the rear chrome plinth for an earlier black one with no jaguar lettering. I'm going to put the new XJ logo on the boot lid aka F type. Swapping out the red side leapers for my old XF vents, modified,.
Oh, and FYI, goo be gone damages powder coated wheels. I used spray and not they're botched. If they can't be buffed, I'm going to have them painted in a titanium finish.
#14
My powder coated wheels have survived pretty much everything, will watch out of goo stuff (though I've never used that on a car). Looking forward to the titanium finish!
#16
He said it should buff out with no problem. Luckily the car hadn't been repainted and except for oxidation and some rubbing marks, there's no scratches or fading. The speed humps on the hood left some oxidation as well. Believe me, he's good so I feel pretty safe that it will look awesome!
Here's a photo after. Looks great in photo but in person you can see where they were. Also my mock up of the vents. Just trying out.
Here's a photo after. Looks great in photo but in person you can see where they were. Also my mock up of the vents. Just trying out.
#17
Flat Black
I forgot you went gloss black on your wheels, I think flat black works out better. It doesn't show the dirt as much and they seem to have fewer issues. I went gloss black for the shift and gauge surrounds. On the hood scoops the cleanest look I got was with the set from Adamesh which emulated the later model XKR. I'd still have them on but the glue the body shop used to stick them on failed under heat and one ejected at speed on the freeway. I use the Mina mesh ones which seem to breath much better and are more secure.
jaguar xkr vents | jaguar supercharged vents
Jaguar XKR XK8 hood mesh louvers for Jaguar XKR
jaguar xkr vents | jaguar supercharged vents
Jaguar XKR XK8 hood mesh louvers for Jaguar XKR
#19
Yeah, I'm really wanting the hood vents. Problem is, I don't know how the engine on the non R will handle the rain/water that migrates through them. The R engine looks more protected with all the super charger parts. If I can get some advice from someone that's actually cut holes, and installed in a non R, I'd like to hear. I notice a couple electrical plugs in the area where the vents will go.
#20
R Hood
Funny thing I started with an XK8 and figured, given how much I was planning to spend, that it would just be cheaper to sell and start over with an R. I never looked back. But I'd must buy an R hood and have it color matched. But the openings are on the side of the supercharger honestly I don't see any extra protection. Here is a picture of my engine again. The openings are forward and outside of the charge coolers.