So I sort of finished replacing my front upper shock mounts and re-installing them in the car. But when I put both front wheels back on the ground with everything tightened up properly I find that the passenger side "ride height" is 1/2" higher than the driver's side. I measured from the top of the rim to the top of the wheel arch. Half an inch seems excessive. I'm stumped.

Before removing the struts and replacing the upper mounts the driver's side was 1/8" higher than the passenger side. This was a little off but since I'll never have any passengers it might level out when I'm behind the wheel. At least the heights will be closer.

I kept the shocks/springs/etc on the same side after the new mounts were installed on the struts specifically to preserve the ride height difference. So much for that idea. The driver's side had 3 of the black plastic "spring packers" (1/8" plastic rings below the white "spring levelers") on the spring pan before disassembly and has the same 3 packers & 1 leveler after re-assembly. The passenger side had no spring packers, just the white leveler, before disassembly and the same leveler after re-assembly. I believe the spring packers are to compensate for slight differences in the spring rates of the two springs. But it sounds like I need 4 more (a total of 1/2") for the driver's side (That would be a total of 7 on the driver's side and none on the passenger side). This seems SO wrong.

Any ideas please?

I intend to measure the distance from the bottom shock bushing to the bottom of the spring pan on both sides tonight to make sure they're the same. I believe they are but I guess I need to check. $%^*&!

Just to add insult to injury I realized while I was putting the driver's side a-arm back together that I was missing 2 of the "stepped" fulcrum washers (part # CAC3533-C16) on the passenger side. Of course I had already finished putting the passenger side back together by this point. The driver's side has 4 of these washers (1 on each side of the bushings) but the passenger side only had 2 (1 at the bolt head and 1 at the nut; but none between the bushings and the aluminum engine cradle [aka sub-frame]). So I had to order 2 of these #$%& things and when they show up I have to take the a-arm apart AGAIN. Double $^%&!

 

My first and only idea is to buy some new springs.
I did this last year and had a shocking experience when the car got back on its wheels and was WAY to high. After double checking that the spring was the correct one (I bought the genuine Jaguar parts), I parked the car for the winter, and now the ride height is spot on! :-)

 

Double check tire pressure and re-check in a 100 miles. If necessary, swap the strut assemblies and re-measure with someone your weight in the driver seat.

IMO, 1/2" difference would only be a concern if I was not able to bring that camber number into spec...

 

You can add a 3/8" spacer between the shock mount top and the seat. I used a polyethylene cutting board. Use the old shock mount for a pattern. It's not necessary to take everything apart, just the three nuts at the top. But considering how bad that spring is, it would be best to buy a new set.

 

+1 for putting a few miles and a few potholes under your belt before getting too excited about the ride height. Significant 'settling' occurs with both the springs and shock mounts after a suspension tear down. After you've sorted the fulcrum bolt hardware/washers/shims etc, go out and run it for a while, then check ride height.

 

What is the actual measurement wheel arch to wheel centre each side? How this compares to specified ride height will determine if you need to lift one side, lower one side or a combination of both. 1/8" spacer at the spring will alter ride height more than the spacer thickness but not sure by how much.

 

Rick, look at my write up on the shock towers and see if the part I made toward the end of it, could be of help to you.
Easy to make, but will bet glad to send you a set to try for material and shipping.
It's right toward the end at Thread #224

 

I'll measure from wheel arch to the top of the hole at the center cap and post it. I've been measuring from the top of the wheel to the top of the wheel arch since it seems easier. But I'll adapt to your convention if its the proper method. Stay tuned.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. I'll wait until I get the passenger side a-arm back together with the proper parts & then drive it for a few miles before re-checking the heights. My intention was to drive directly to the shop and have the front end aligned BEFORE I drive it anywhere but I guess I'll have to adapt. I really hope I don't have to replace the springs. #$%&!

 

TC, it's measured from the centre of the wheel to the wheel arch:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3/#post2146849

 

Well ... OK. But it's a royal PIA to find the "center" of the wheel. I can hook the tape measure into the top of the center hole without much trouble. Not sure how to hold the tape measure still without something to grab on to. I'll do my best. Thanks, Michael.

 

Using a yardstick makes it easy....

 

What's a yardstick? I'll ask the same teen that thought the British attacked Pearl Harbor.

 

I don't have a yardstick either. I have a tape measure. If I were a man of the 21st century I'd have a laser range finder.

 

I still have my late father's old yardstick. It is at least 70 years old and I still use it regularly....

 

Easy way if you have a cheap Harbor Freight Magnetic Laser level: Set the level on your trolley jack pad and lift to achieve a level plane with the center emblem on your wheel, visually center the laser dot in the center of the center cap (Growler). Stretch the tape out and set the main body onto the floor, then place the other end at the high point inside wheel arch. Move the tape horizontally to intersect with the laser dot. The dot will indicate the distance from wheel arch to wheel center (Hub). Yardsticks are too much trouble.

 

That's a novel idea, by any yardstick...

 

So ... I finally got the a-arm bushing washers installed and the strut repair finished. Whew! What a mess. I had a miserable time getting the spacers/shims in on the passenger side with the new bushing and all 4 washers. It was EXTREMELY tight getting the last set of spacers in on the rearward side. Lots of pounding & speaking in tongues.

I drove the car around the block when I got things buttoned up and measured the ride height again. Without a yardstick. Anyway the difference between the sides is now 1/4". Not great but I can live with it. The driver's side is 14 3/4" and the passenger is 15 even. Lower than the 15 3/4" original spec but that's all its got. If the tires don't bang into the fenders it'll be fine. If not I'll have to find some spring spacers and see if they'll serve until next year when I have to replace the upper mounts again. Oh well.