I would definitely re-think that. All these 4 hoses see the same full pressure from the oil pump, it is not a "return" at low pressure. The weakest crimp will bust, ignoring the newest line. My understanding is that these hydraulic lines have an expected service life of only 10 years. You are on borrowed time after that. Remember, if any one burst, you are stranded for sure, wherever, and at whatever temperature, possibly with a seized engine. Even Jaguar issued a TSB for these on some of the early cars. FWIW, people talk about the weak tensioners and A-drums on the 4.0L. These oil lines are the one major problem area for the later 4.2L models in my opinion. Your car, your call of course.

 

Understood--I'll recheck with the guy.

Doug

 

My left blew at 8 years old, the right at 10. Best replace both.

 

Hi There Jaguar Group! I drove home on Tuesday and had smoke coming from underneath, and parked to find a trail of oil drops, and lake of oil underneath my 2004 Jaguar XKR. Read the forums, and bought the left, oil cooler inlet hose. Took everything apart and it looks like it rests on the anti-roll bar, and I just replaced both bushings because it was clunking terribly! I think that the oil coolant hose was being jacked by the anti-roll bar. Anyways, I have the new hose, but cannot see or seem to find the correct size socket - does anybody know what size (the x-shaped oil coolant hose retainer). Thanks! Dave

 

From memory, it is just a normal screw, say 12 or 13mm. I used a socket and a short extension with a 3/8" breaker bar, nothing special. A mechanic's mirror can help you get a good look. More impressive than difficult, really. This is for the x-brace holding the 2 lines to the engine block. As pointed out before, consider replacing the 4 lines (I know, $$) as they all see the same pressure and likely aged the same.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

How much stuff needs to come out for replacing these lines on a coupe? I don’t know if mine are still the original ones, but they do have the newer style ferrule/crimp.

 

Just the plastic under tray. There are quite a few fasteners, but nothing too hard. It starts at the bottom of the wheel well liner and goes around. Mostly torx if I remember. There are a couple of line clamps here and there. The lines comes apart from each other (there are 4 sections) with a simple (10mm?) screw. Then there is that cross brace on the engine block, no big deal. Be sure to get all the necessary new o-rings. There is some oil coming out, but nothing terribly messy. No need to drain the oil.

Caveat: When you put the lines back on the block, be sure to figure out a way to push them in properly as it is a bit hard with the new o-ring. If you use the bolt to pressure the x-brace for the same purpose, you will get into the conundrum of the cheap hard steel screw into the soft Aluminum block and, or so I hear from a friend (ahem!), strip the threads.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

this needs to be made into a sticky. It cannot be over-emphasized, do NOT use the bolt to "draw in", or "pull in" the hose set. A very very little lubrication on the o-rings, and in the cavities, will make all the difference here; you can feel them going in and bottoming out properly.

Using the bolt to pull in the hoses gives you zero "feel" for what is happening, and disaster awaits.

Z

 

I checked all of my hoses today and they seem to be in good shape and all four of them have the new style ferrule/crimp. Is it safe to assume that the P/O changed them at some point?

 

If their age is suspected to be 10+ years, I’d be replacing them regardless of whether they are the older or newer style.

 

My high pressure hose burst recently in the middle of the expressway at 75 mph In about 10 seconds and 500 feet before I got to the side of the road, the crankcase was emptied and the bottom of the car entirely encased in oil. The line burst not at the ferrule/connector, but in the middle of the rubber section, cracking in half. High pressure means high pressure. Never so glad to see the "red flash of death" on the dash (Low Oil Pressure!), as it probably saved the car. No damage since that I can detect in the past few weeks. Moral of the story is to check the hoses if you want - simply look to the sides of the radiator for leaks/squeeze the hoses to see if still flexible - but the reality is to get new hoses no matter what, if they are more than 10 years old or even sooner if driven in high heat. The risk is high. I was on life support at 17 years. OEM hoses are available on line for about $450, and you will have the luxury of doing them yourself, if desired. Not something I wanted to do with the car bathed in oil, so $1000 out the door.

 

The bracket (#15 in the diagram) is held in place with a 10mm screw.