i have a 2001 xkr , passenger seat will not recline but all other functions work. there is NO clicking sound when i press the recline button, whereas there is a clicking sound when i press upright - though there is no movement because it is as far straight as it can be. i have read that the possibilities are seat module, wire chafing or seat switch. One very kid gentleman on the forum (george of rmexoticautos offered to solder a seat module if that was the problem (they seem to cost $400 on ebay now) . The only other thing i know is that the local car mechanic didn't want to remove the module but did apply external power & was able to recline the seat that way.

So in short, external power effective, no clicking sound in that direction only, other directional movement works. If i could point to a specific probable cause it would be immensely useful.
TY.

 

Welcome to the forum Charles,

You have identified the possible causes of failure.

I can't understand why your mechanic won't remove (disconnect?) the Seat Module. It is a programmable module but doesn't lose programming if disconnected. If he doesn't have dealer level diagnostics, the alternative way to test a Seat Module is to temporarily switch them over from passenger to driver side.

Depending on how and where he applied external power should help identify a wiring or switch fault.

When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST section and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

A very warm welcome to this very friendly forum Charles.

At the base of the seat on the inboard side at the back, there is a tiny switch which can sometimes become misaligned.

The easiest way to tackle this, having first tried what Graham suggests, is to remove the seat. 4 bolts and out she comes. you will then be able to check everything quite easily.

The module cover will come if you are careful. If the tracks are damaged it will generally be the leading edge. This can be repaired by soldering a bridging wire.

When you have the seat out check and clean the connectors and also look at the wiring harness for signs of chafing.

Hopefully this will give you a start in tracking it down.

 

TY for such immediate response at ridiculous hours of night!

Car is in shop now for MAF replacement i just bought on ebay ($200 new oem vs the $450 i was quoted), ill ask them how external power was applied & repost. I suspect, GGG, that the mechanic, who really is very helpful but doesn't specialize in jags, may not have wished to touch electronics - im sure hell be assured when i repeat what you wrote. Also, the path of least resistance, so powering externally & reclining the seat took a few seconds. I doubt i could have kept the car this long without his economical assistance, nor i might add, without the great advice posted here on various issues. I couldn't afford to go to local main dealer. When the fuel valves had to be replaced they quoted $3400!

[also, GGG i seem to be as illiterate in tech as in cars, the user cp reveals only two options private messages / subscribed threads. No place for edit or whatever. Im using chrome. ]

TX!

 

Charles,

Other members have mentioned Chrome can produce an unusual view of the forum. If you click on the User CP button (arrowed in red in the following screen shot), it should open the 'Your Control Panel' (I've boxed this in red in this screen shot):



(click on the image to enlarge it)

As this may not be displaying correctly in your browser, I've edited your Signature to add vehicle details. This should now appear automatically with your next post.

Graham

 

Graham ty. this will be my first signature

my update on the seat is a bit of a wimp out.
the mechanic tells me he disconnected the wiring to the seat, & that one wire powers 'recline' another the 'incline'. So he was able to recline the seat to an acceptable level, then disconnected both wires so that the seat adjuster would work save for the incline or recline functions. This doesn't really matter in an xkr. The problem could be in any of the wiring the seat or the module, so best left for time being.

i read somewhere else on the site that manual adjustments to a car seat cant be made on an xkr, so perhaps here is a partial solution.

TX!

 

I know have same problem on my 2002 XK8 with seat now in full up right position and and of course so foreward, not usuable. will look for this small switch inboard on passenger side as member states earlier in this stream.

Bill Woods

 

I had the same problem with my passenger seat in my 97 XK8. It is easy to pinpoint the module if thats the problem. Remove the module from the drivers seat and plug it in. if the functions restore your module needs repair. If it doesnt change there are numerous threads on adjusting the potentiometers for the seats.

 

Two days ago all of a sudden the recline on the P seat doesn't work. All other functions do. I hear a momentary motor activation with a back press and nothing with a forward press. My suspicion based on limited reading is the seat control module, and I can send that off to Module Master for a rebuild for a hundred bucks--but first I'll have to learn how to get it out. The other possibilities are wiring and motor. Kinda figure if wiring, there would be more symptoms, and I read that when the circuit board on the SCM starts to degrade, the recline is usually the first function to fail. I read here that the logical test for the SCM is to switch driver and passenger. I assume this requires taking out both seats, but correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks , Phillip

 

Thanks to advice on this Forum, I was able to remove and swap my SCMs and discover that the problem is in the pass. SCM, as the recline works fine with the driver's SCM connected. I also found, as expected after reading multiple posts, that the lids were broken which is why both SCMs were held in place (more or less) by zip ties. The cases are made of PPE/PS and rather fragile and brittle after 20 years. I plastic-welded the hairline cracks on both sides and filled in around the studs, reinforcing with steel wool and staples. The lids were easy to remove with gentle prying and I did no damage removing them. In the pass. SCM, I found discoloration at the edge of the circuit board, as described in previous posts. I have shipped that module off to Module Master in Idaho for rebuilding. I re-installed the driver's module yesterday., after treating the steel mounting bracket for some superficial rust.

Working with these is like so many jobs on cars (and boats)--the task is simple, but the access sucks. It helps to move the seat fully back and tilt the front of the bottom cushion fully up before disconnecting the module. The connectors fit in there securely so after depressing the locking tabs, you have to pull on them with some determination to get them out and mean it when you push them back in to make sure they fully engage. My connector pins and sockets were all perfectly clean. If you have a small work light that mounts on a flexible stand like a Joby, that will help. Trying to put the cell phone in the right place without one to light up the area is frustrating. I found a small hand mirror helpful, as the mounting studs and nuts for the bracket are up under the seat so you are working upside-down.

As suggested in another post, I used waterproof tape around the seam between the lid and the case, just to prevent any moisture from ever getting in there. Couldn't find Loctite so I used this heavy black stuff called T-Rex Tape. I cut it in half lengthwise as it is 2" wide.

It would have saved me some frustration if I had known this in advance: there are two notches on each end of the mounting bracket, but, on my car at least, the bracket will only mount using the rearward notches; it doesn't have enough clearance in the back to mount using the front ones. The notches are far easier than holes would be, as they allow you to leave one of the mounting nuts on, loosened, and hook the bracket on at that end so you can push the other end up into place and put the nut on. Finger-tighten the nuts as much as you can before suffering through putting a socket on them; that way, the socket will actually ratchet as you turn it and minimize your aggravation.

This job was well-worth the fifteen minutes on each end of cursing, spluttering, and discomfort. The door sill does not give, so I do have a bit of a bruised rib on one side, but my SCM is now properly secured to the car which feels good. And I know how to re-mount the other one when I get it back.

Driver's side SCM with lid repaired and mounted to bracket. Seam is taped--not for attachment but for moisture-proofing.

 

Is this switch specific to the XKR or is it also present in the XK8? I am having issue with my passenger seat recline function too but it is a weird issue. Performed the module swap to narrow issue down to the module itself. Repaired module from Module Masters installed and the seat recline works....but only if the seat is un-occupied. I am referring to the "tiny" switch mentioned in this thread. I didn't notice it when I had the seat out of the car.