I did the same thing!@ that 20 ton press was onsale at HF and with the coupon it was like $80!

I also bought a used Snapon Ball point press which worked AMAZING. BUT as the repair shop said, there not much room to press and you need special (modified) adapters. I bought a a cheap ball joint press off amazon or ebay that uses a threaded rod and ball bearing and assorted sleeve sizes to try and get my bushings ot on mr rear lower control arms but I couldnt find an adapter (basically a set of various diameter hollow cylinders) nthat would have the right outer dimension and the right inside dimension to allow it to fit thru control arm bore but only press on the bushings ring and not tear thru the rubber. I actually had to have a guy at my work turn down a few adapters to give the a thin wall and it worked. BUT I couldnt get the big rubber front bushing with the sheet metal out ring as I didnt have the right sized adapter, I left the originals in as you can see they werent damaged.

BTW, I found my shock bushings were really bad to and you need thin wall adapters for that too bc the rubber ballon boot comes real close to outer bushing shell and the stock adapters would have cut them for sure

 

On the shock lower mount rubber being in the way. Take the spring ring off and remove the rubber. Do that for the one side you are pushing out and on the new one side you are pushing in.
If you do that a socket works just fine.
RD made a bracket to enable the ball joint to be installed, sorry can't find it right now, but will look later. Gave the measurements if I remember rightly.
Found a later article with a picture.
Here you go

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x.../#&gid=1&pid=1

 

I saw that but figured id pop a hole in the rubber or stretch the spring clip and keep it from going back on!

 

Sure looks like a good job to me. Well done.

 

Kudos to anyone who did this by himself. I'm most likely never doing this again so I don't mind having someone else do the hard parts.
I got the parts back today so I can reassemble tomorrow, then go to the right side. The guy at the shop said that he had to be creative with his methods and would have less trouble doing it again. I told him, "good, because I'll have the other side for you next week".

One new shock, one new shock mount, two new bushings, and two new ball joints.
d

 

I changed both the upper and lower ball joints and bushings on my 2000 XKR this summer and it is not an easy job. I have done this on several cars the last thirty years and have a 50 ton press at work, but I had to make a lot of adapters and stuff the get the job done. So dont be chocked if your local repair man dont want to do it, or give you a huge bill. It is not something that can be done in several minutes.

 

I agree! I had to do some mods to the adapters I bought. I also just remembered something important- The depth that the control arm bushing in the arms is critical. If the bushings arent pushed in to the exact depth, the arm wont fit back inside the mounting ears. I had to do a little adjusting on my first one because it just wouldnt fit ajnd yo cant force it (i tried), So I had to relocate one bushing to get it to fit. If the installer measured the distance between the original bushings and then made sure he met that distance you should be ok. I was close but I had to push on around a little to get it to fit

 

The left side is done, now I'll do the same thing on the right side.
I agree with those who said that parts of this job are difficult, which is why I farmed them out.
Installation wasn't bad, the upper wishbone bolt went better than I expected. I just fed the shims in as the bolt went in.
I solved one small mystery, about how to press the old ball joint out with so little material around the ball joint. The guy at the shop was commenting about that. The manual says to cut part of the flange off the ball joint on opposite sides to create some space for the press plates to contact. Oh, what fun. I'm not doing it but it's nice to know for future reference.

I hadn't connected the steering tie rod yet.

I was happy to get the upper wishbone bolt in.

 

I disassembled the right side yesterday, now the parts are ready to go to the shop. I'm happy to report that both sides came apart quite easily. After removing nuts I pulled the bolts out by hand. The upper ball joints both split with my ball joint splitter fork. It took about 10 whacks to separate. For the lower ball joints, I backed the nut off to the last couple of threads. I removed the lower control arm with the spindle and turned it over on the garage floor. Three hits on the nut from a small sledge hammer separated the ball joint.
One small problem I encountered is the new bushings for the upper wishbone bolt. Each upper wishbone gets two bushing assemblies so I bought four of the exact same part number from Rock Auto.
Each bushing assembly is two bushings that slide onto a sleeve and that assembly slides onto the bolt. I test fit the bushings on the bolt before installation and found that two of the sleeves would not fit on the bolt. They slid over the threads and stopped. This is with trying all four bushing sleeves on the same bolt. Strange.
Luckily two did fit so I was able to finish the left side. I'm returning the two bushing assemblies that don't fit to Rock Auto and I hope that I get two replacements that fit. Fingers crossed.

 

I received my two replacement bushings and as luck would have it the numbers have not changed, 50% good and 50% not so good.
One bushing assembly slides happily over the upper wishbone attach bolt and the other only slides over the threads, then abruptly stops.
So now I have to return one bushing to Rock Auto and get one more. This time it's all or nothing, no 50% possibility.
FYI, these are URO bushings part number MJA1462AB, control arm bushings.
If you order them from Rock Auto, order twice as many as you need and the odds are you will get exactly the number of good ones that you need.