Skubee,
If your '97 hasn't had an oddball engine swop then it's an AJ26 and the first of GGG's diagrams in post #5 is the one to look at.

Part #s are NCA2578BB for the plug seals, camshaft cover gasket has had a raft of supersessions but now AJ88400 (RH), AJ88285 (LH). I was advised to also replace the rubber washers under the bolts. Part #NCA2575CA. OEM sold in packs of 10 and you need 28 - go figure...

Each spark plug seal covers two holes (looks like a small pair of spectacles) so you'll need four.

You will also need some high-temperature RTV, and probaby some JB weld.

Some use aftermarket parts and some have had troubles with them leaking. I used OEM and TBH even with that the new cam cover seals look a bit rubbish.

Unless you're sure that the tensioners have been replaced with metal ones, then plan & budget on doing them at the same time. The timebomb ticketh...

It's not too bad a job - the RHS is easier as there's less stuff in the way. Take your time and make sure you torque everything back down correctly:- the covers are plastic!

There's a few threads on here, including some issues you may encounter, but shout if you need any more detail.

Good luck,
Mike

 

Thank you michaelh
Great info. I agree, too many have had issues with aftermarket brands. I'm going to source out the genuine jag parts.
Any DIY procedure for changing out the gaskets on this website? I didn't see any. Are you using the RTV directly on the seals? Any other places?

 

There are two specific points on each side that need a bead of high temp RTV where the cylinder head joins the engine front cover. It's obvious when you see the gasket, and JTIS is has a picture showing exactly how much and where.

You'll most likely need the JB Weld (NOT the quick-setting flavour) for the brass ferrules that the coil cover bolts screw into as they have a habit of coming out with the bolts

I couldn't find pictures/video for the cam cover removal (I don't have much luck with the searches, but that's just me). You're best searching under 'tensioner replacement' as clearly the cam cover R&R is part of that process. There are some pics from H20Boy in a link in the stickies. They're for an XJ8 but there's useful info in there. Also, TexMurphy has very recently undertaken tensioner replacement so there's further detail in his posts.

I can put something together for you if it would help but I only lifted the 'easy' RH cover to check for non-exploding metal tensioners. Briefly, once you have the air intake, MAF and air filter box out of the way that side isn't too bad. Do take care with the coil connectors as the locating tangs on the coil packs will break off in a heartbeat. I guess you'll already be aware of that - in which case you'll need a little extra RTV...

The LH cover has the coolant expansion tank and dipstick cunningly located to make access more challenging.

If you can lay hands on a 1/4" socket set it will make removal of some of the lower cam cover bolts easier as it's a bit of a squeeze...

M

 

71K is not to early to change the plugs. Sure they will last 100K, but the performance degrades. Just about every sport bike rider will tell you the same. I was smoked on a 1000cc by a 750cc once, changed the plugs after that embarrassment, then he couldn't catch me. That was an "ah ha" moment. The plugs in my wife's car can go to 100K, mine only to 40 or so.

 

OhWhatNow, I have around 134K on the car, but around 110K I had the plugs changed out. The mechanic put in Bosch Plat 2 plugs and they already look charred. Plus, with the spark plug areas half filled oil and ignition coils failing, who knows how much performance I'm losing. Mike, thanks again for the spot on info. I'll look for the other threads.

 

There's tons of evidence that the plugs on these cars last to 100K and beyond without losing performance. What happens on motorcycles or other brands of cars is not really relevant. Use the OEM plug or exact equivalent and stop worrying.

 

I've got the cam/valve covers off. There's a tube near the front top of the driver's side cover, the one with the oil fill plug, and it was really brittle and it broke. I couldn't find any reference to it in the parts list or any diagram. Any idea what this part is and does?
While I've got the covers off, is there anything I should do to the inside before closing it up?
Thanks in advance.

 

You are probably referring to the PCV tube.

 

Found it finally. it's called: HOSE, BREATHER, PART LOAD, NON-SUPERCHARGED
Found it on Terry's Jags website.

 

That breather tube may need to be cleaned
Look for an active thread named something like: PCV 4.0L V8 Engine. There is a link to a TSB on the subject

 

Part load breather is now part # AJ84880. It breaks if you sneeze too hard as you've already discovered. Mine fell apart when I did the valley hoses The dealer didn't have one in stock so I used fuel line and I've not had any issues, but probably not recommended. Save the non-brittle bits as they make great wiring shrouds if you cut along one side

Are the tensioners the metal-bodied ones?

One tip: put all the cam cover bolts through the cover and seal before putting in place on the head. The bottom flange on the bolt spacers is meant to go on the head side of the cover seal, and helps to hold it in place. You'll see what I mean when you're reassembling things.

Oh - and go easy with the torque wrench...

HTH,
Mike

 

Skubee,

Don't forget that the breather tube may not need to be replaced with an OEM tube. If there's enough tube left at at the connector you might be able to just run a normal rubber hose from one end to the other. It only has to fit snuggly to function fine.

 

Yes, had the tentioners done last year; Metal. Already received the new breather tube, since I already had everything apart, might as well put in a new one and forget about it. I'm not sure what it does, but if it has anything to do with emissions, here in California, it's one of the toughest states to pass smog, don't want to mess with that. Thanks for the replies..

 

Understand about California. I lived there many years ago, and will NEVER go back. It's much more enjoyable to laugh at those numbskulls from afar than having to actually deal with them in real life.


The tube just inhales crankcase fumes into the intake system so the Hydrocarbons can be burned off, vice just escaping to the atmosphere. It's pretty much been standard fare for decades - nothing complicated about it. There's one tube for each side plus another that connects to the charcoal gas fume canister. And of course, there's the EGR system, which curiously only breathes from the right bank's exhaust. (Must meet some kind of "minimum" requirement)

 

I pulled the stock NGK Iridiums out two years ago at 130k- no loss in power up until I got a code for a misfire. But wanted to say I also had oil in my wells on most of them. It was my understanding that it was not a major issue, so I sopped them up using those blue shop towels pulled gently on the tip of a screwdriver and carried on with sticking in new NGK Iridiums for the next 130k...

 

If the oil gets on the coils it can ruin them

 

I believe the oil issue is what killed two of the coils within two days. Problem was, when I removed the covers, I could see the mechanic that did the work on my tentioners, did the lousy job sealing it all back up. So, one problem eliminated, another started. It sucks, you think you find a quality mechanic, then you find the real truth; sloppy work.

 

Good reminder- at that same time I did have a bad coil, in fact I think that was the cause of the code. Moved it from one cylinder to the other and the code followed, after already putting in the new plugs. I just got one from eBay for about $60. Zero issues since, but it is possible for them to go bad. Not a bad idea to check all of the wells and boots the next time you have your valve covers off.

 

Oops!

Adds a whole new dimension to the statement "I can't thank you enough"

#feelingflattered


Mike