Hi I am thinking of upgrading my stero will a double din fit into opening

Is standard wireing ok read somewhere on forums bigger stero threw up fault codes ?.

Can I make steering wheel control work

Was thinking of pioneer double din 50 watt per channel

Anyone any ideas

 

It has been done but you have to relocate one row of buttons. I've seen setup where the buttons were relocated to the glove box and to the center arm rest compartment. Search the forum and you will find these setups. However, I would recommend a single DIN head unit.


Mark

 

Here's one option.....

 

As mentioned, double din requires relocation of switch row. I moved mine into the glove box. Only 24 wires to splice, thus, 48 splices. There is a list of other things to deal with: You need to figure out a way to mount/secure the unit. I fabricated two small metal brackets. Next, There isn't much room with the transmission tunnel hump, which rises up somewhat in the cavity. I had to remove some (just a little) of the think rubber backed insulation over the tunnel deep inside the cavity. Consider how tall and deep the unit is before purchase, too big at the back end and it won't fit back there. For the trim around the touch screen, I used a dremmel to cut the factory trim piece (this is the trim piece that holds the factory radion in place) so it would fit over the new unit, then I cut and superglued black plastic trim pieces on the left and right sides of the touch screen to fill in the empty spaces. I used a sheet of the nameplate engraving plastic that is black on one side, white on the other. The stuff is easy to work with, thin, and the black side matches the black color and texture of the cars plastic. You cannot use the factory amplifier. I installed a new amp in the trunk. This means running new wiring from the center console to the trunk (read as - remove center console rear seat/rear trim panels and pulling up a little carpet to run wires under). I ended up splicing the new amp's output into the speaker wires near the factory amp connector in the trunk, so there is that to deal with. The steering wheel controls are the easiest part of the job, I used a Metra interface, works fine, there are others. My JVC unit came with a remote mic, which I routed up to the header panel just above the drivers visor. I wired a backup camera on mine too. You need to take all of this into consideration so that you minimize having to get back into the head unit wiring area over and over again. I even ran a couple of extra wire runs from the trunk to the console are "just in case". Actually, I bought a 25 foot quality AV cable, similar to this and I got some female RCA connectors and spliced them into the wiring. This way, I can just unplug the RCA connectors,

It sounds like a lot of work, and it is, no question about that. There are no interface kits for the wiring so you need to run new wires and connect into some existing wires, such as the steering wheel signals, headlight on signal (dimmer), power, etc. I am happy with my installation.

For what it's worth, I have a JVC unit, although they mostly are all similar. I know that some new units come with ability to display/control an iphone from the touch panel. Mine does with limited functionality only with some apps, like pandora. I also use MotionX GPS Drive on my iphone for navigation, and it can be controlled from the tech screen on the head unit. This is by far the absolute best GPS software I have used, and I have used many, including garmin devices. MotionX interfaces with the headunit. My JVC also does charge my iphone, this was important to me. Some units don't have enough current capacity to charge a phone, so check that if this is something you think is important.

Also, think carefully before buying a retractable LCD screen, as these likely will interfere with the gear shift lever when in park, and, they cover up the switch packs when out.